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Hi folk, I know I have a decal which isn’t compatible with tru oil. I’ve seen some people use wipe on poly on headstock faces (which I’m guessing I could do), but has anyone used a wipe on poly over the entire guitar? Would this work? I’m planning on a feast Watson hand stained burst. Appreciate people’s opinions, thanks.
Hi mate, I have used Tru Oil over the top over water slide decals done in ink jet with no dramas? Just need to spray on a coat or 2 of clear acrylic (White Knight or similar) to seal in the ink jet image on the transfer paper.
Haven't done a wipe on poly and there are plenty of examples on the forum. From memory it can drag the stain around when applying the 1st coat. Maybe brushing 1st coat may prevent that? No doubt others who have used wipe on poly will drop by and share their experiences.
Hi Waz, thanks for the quick reply. You recently gave me your good method for brush application in my build diary. My Rothko and frost decal does state it can’t be used with tru oil, but I’m sure if the decal is coated tru oil is back in contention. By the way, I brought Tung Oil thinking it was the same product as Tru Oil. Appears to be similar, but different. Is Tung Oil a suitable substitute for Tru Oil?
Not sure on Tung Oil. Believe it can do a similar job.
Getting back to the Rothko & Frost decals, suggest giving them a light acrylic spray from on top that way it helps to seal in what has been created. Be careful not to layer things up too much as that does introduce a noticeable edge under the top coats.
Thanks again, I have found your suggested product and will follow your method.
Unless anyone tells me otherwise I’m thinking of buying the Tru Oil come time to clear coat. Perhaps I can find another project for the Tung Oil.
If unopened maybe you could take it back and get a refund?
Too late! I have already opened it and given my plywood burst a couple of coats using your brush on method...which appears to be working so far. I get the impression from dubious sources on the internet that Tru Oil dries to a harder finish, but if testing on my plywood burst is a failure than I have a backup.
My best results came when I applied the (laser printed) decal just after the (Minwax) wipe on poly goes 'off', or just after it becomes touch dry. The tackyness of the poly helps to adhere the decal and the edges can slightly sink into the yet to harden poly underneath. When fully dry about 12 to 24hrs later the first coat of poly over the decal should be moderately wet so as to safely seal it in, with the actual application using as few wipe strokes as possible. Coats after that can be applied in the normal way.
The alternative is to spray only the headstock front using a rattle can of poly. Much the same steps with far less chance of 'destroying' the decal. And you also then have the option of Gloss, Satin or Matt as an overall finish on the headstock (which then if desired could be different to the body finish).
If it all goes horribly wrong then sanding all of the mistake off and trying again is a disheartening but very viable option...
Interesting idea Marcel, thanks.
Poly is a very hard finish when fully cured (give it around 30 days). So far I'm finding that Tru-Oil seems quite soft by comparison after a week's drying with no additional coats, though it too may harden well over time.
A question for those who have used it, does Wipe on poly polish up the same as Tru-oil and give you the same finish?
Hi guys, I am a long time user of Tru-Oil but have used MinWax Wipe-On Poly on a few guitars now.
I believe Simon is correct (as usual) in that Poly definitely seems to set/cure harder than Tru-Oil. I apply both products in the same manner but it is only when you have finished that I found that the Poly seems to need a lot more work to get that high gloss finish. I especially noticed that on my current build when I left the final coat about a month before trying to get a gloss.
But you can get a nice gloss from Poly, definitely on a par with Tru-Oil.
Here are a few examples:
My last completed build
Attachment 26020 Attachment 26021
and my current build
Attachment 26022 Attachment 26023
Hope this is of some help.
Cheers guys
rob
Product information in the big green shed indicates poly is one of the harder finishes Simon. Great photos Robin, this choice isn’t getting any easier.
Looks great rob, I already had some wipe on poly here already, so I might go with that. Cheers for the feedback
Another question. How do people store their brushes between coats? I’m going through quite a bit of turps cleaning up.
Good question as i go through lots of turps too.
Just been doing gloss on a couple of external doors and to clean the brush takes a bit more than half a bottle of turps.
Once excess has been shaken off in a part of the garden that won't get damaged i have then washed the brush with laundry liquid and warm water under a running tap in the laundry sink. Keeps the brush almost as good as new.
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Hi Mark, for small jobs like guitars I just use a small (approx. 50x50mm) piece of cotton t-shirt material folded over a couple of times. Single use only.
But be careful how you dispose of it. Apparently discarded Poly and Tru-Oil rags can spontaneously combust. I have build over a dozen guitars using countless number of these swatches using both these products without a single problem. But both products bear that warning on their labels. Just something to be aware of.
For larger projects, sounds like Wassa has it all sussed out.
Cheers
rob
Hope my guitar doesn’t spontaneously combust.
Lol. It would certainly make for a spectacular one-off stage show.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Hendrix, eat your heart out.
Who needs lighter fluid?
Never had the used TO soaked rags self combust. Might see how easily it ignites after next application as I reckon there is more linseed oil than flamable stuff.
A bit of web searching seems to indicate that you need a lot of oily rag in order for self-combustion to occur. Also, the hotter the air temperature, the more likely it is to happen. I cut clean cotton rag into roughly 10cm squares, and the Tru-oil only goes onto a small portion of the rag. There are some videos of linseed oil soaked rags catching fire, but there's a big bunch of material all crushed up and it's all oil-soaked. The outer layers insulate the inner rags, allowing temperature to build up, as some heat is given off as the oil dries and oxidises in contact with air.
So a small bit of rag opened out, isn't going to cause any problem.
Might relate to the method of using paper towell or cotton wool scrunched up into a ball and placed inside a rag, fully soaked, and rubbed in vigorously as that does generate heat with lots of finish still trapped in the applicator.
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Back to the poly v’s Tru Oil education...
1) I used about 30 coats of Tru Oil on my guitar. Would I expect to be using a similar number of coats using wipe on poly?
2) When I wet sanded the Tru Oil I loved the feel of the surface, however the burst deserved the full gloss treatment. Will wet sanding wipe on poly give the same texture?
3) Tru Oil has a reputation for a yellowing finish. Will poly yellow or is it clear?
I found the neck on my polished Tru Oil guitar feeling ‘grippy’, so today I rubbed the neck back with 0000 steel wool. Much happier with the feel and like the satin look. Considering it as how I want a natural finished guitar to look.
Poly should stay clear (unless there's something wrong with it). TruOil will add an initial yellow tint which will deepen as it gets older. Both will give a full gloss finish provided you put enough sanding and polishing effort in. The poly should go on a bit thicker than TruOil, but you'll probably want to still use maybe 15-20 coats in all including intermediate sand-backs.
Hmm, I might give it a go next time.