Filling stop tail piece holes

Hi guys,

I bought a ES-2V kit and wanted to attach a Bigsby on it via a Vibramate. The problem: the distance from the bottom of the guitar to the tailpiece-holes is about 5 1/2" instead of 6", so I can not do that. So I'd like to attach the Bigsby directly to the body, but there is another issue with that: I would have to set a screw exactly into one of the tailpiece-drillholes.
My solution: I am thinking of filling up those holes (he screws for a Bigsby do not have to sit that tight, anyway).
So my question is: Would you recommend doing so? And what would be the best way to fill them up?

Thanks in advance for your answers!
Kind Regards,

Lukas

Lukas - I'd look to get some dowel of the right diameter and use some tightbond or other PVA glue to fill the hole (being very careful not to get any on the top if you want to stain). Downside is that anything visible will not be covered by the veneer / top of the guitar and you'll see the end of the dowel.

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Originally Posted by Brendan

Lukas - I'd look to get some dowel of the right diameter and use some tightbond or other PVA glue to fill the hole (being very careful not to get any on the top if you want to stain). Downside is that anything visible will not be covered by the veneer / top of the guitar and you'll see the end of the dowel.

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Thanks Brendan,
a freind told me pretty much the same. As most of the dowels will be covered by the Bigsby annyways the asthetics of them will not be that much auf an issue.

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Originally Posted by Chiin

Thanks Brendan,
a freind told me pretty much the same. As most of the dowels will be covered by the Bigsby annyways the asthetics of them will not be that much auf an issue.

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The end grain of the dowel will likely show up much darker under your final finish coats also, so you may end up with Avery stark contrast. Depending on how handy you are with paint, you coul try to blend them to the surrounding wood.
Your build sounds very interesting, please post some pictures if you get a chance 😁

You could get a cheap hole saw the same internal diameter from the hardware store and a similar colour piece of timber and make a plug that way no end grain will show

Or just cut the dowel slightly short and stick a circle of maple veneer on the top (making sure not to get glue on the surface or surrounding veneer).

As you are going the Bigsby route, have you given thought to getting a floating bridge with roller saddles to replace the kit bridge? Say something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QA1VJ...&pd_rd_w=kT28H

An unpinned floating bridge is going to be very unstable when using a Bigsby. You could pin a standard floating bridge for more stability, but I'm sure that the use of the Bigsby is still likely to cause the pins to wear away at the wood over time.

+1 for Simon’s suggestion. It’s a pretty simple solution, and you won’t have the end grain to contend with with you come to finishing.

That's what I did on a TL-1TB, plug & cap. The shape of the top on an ES-2V will make it a little trickier, but still doable if you can get some reasonably well matched quilted maple veneer.

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

That's what I did on a TL-1TB, plug & cap. The shape of the top on an ES-2V will make it a little trickier, but still doable if you can get some reasonably well matched quilted maple veneer.

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That’s a great build diary weirdbits

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Or just cut the dowel slightly short and stick a circle of maple veneer on the top (making sure not to get glue on the surface or surrounding veneer).

As you are going the Bigsby route, have you given thought to getting a floating bridge with roller saddles to replace the kit bridge? Say something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QA1VJ...&pd_rd_w=kT28H

An unpinned floating bridge is going to be very unstable when using a Bigsby. You could pin a standard floating bridge for more stability, but I'm sure that the use of the Bigsby is still likely to cause the pins to wear away at the wood over time.

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Thanks Simon,

I think I'm going to do that.

Is there anything I should look out for when choosing the bridge?

EDIT: I just realised that the Bigsby is actually to big to use with this Guitar, as the Bridge would have to be positioned right next to it and that makes to big of an angle for the strings. Is there anything I could do about that? Otherwise i guess using at least a Bigsby V7 on this Kit will not work.

The only thing to look out for with such a bridge is the lowest height you can set it to. There have been several ES-2 builds in the past 6 months, so look out for those build diaries. Several are by regulars here, so someone should be able to tell you what the neck angle is like and how much height you'll need for the bridge. If the neck angle is shallow, you will need a bridge that isn't too tall.

You could look at fitting a B5. They will fit on a Les Paul style body and you can then use a B5 Vibramate and the stop tailpiece holes as normal. The Bigsby will then be at the right distance from the bridge. http://www.vibramate.com/vibramate-v5-install.php

I guess that sounds better than trying to find a solution for the problems with the V7.

Hi Chiin

I built an earlier version of this kit (f-holes have changed shape but otherwise the same) and fitted a B70 to it.
Attachment 24727
I only filled the post holes with dowel and did not put a piece of veneer on top and the stain is darker on the dowel as you can see. The B70 is about 3mm wider than the B7 so you will see slightly more of the post hole repairs with yours.
Attachment 24728Attachment 24729
To get the action down I used a Bigsby aluminium bridge. If you want to use a floating roller bridge it may be an idea to make a tapered shim for the neck pocket (Simon explained this recently in rook's RCA-4 build diary). Only down side to that is the angle of the strings over the bridge and down to the roller bar of the Bigsby will be greater, the roller saddles on the bridge may not make this a big issue. Whichever type of floating bridge you use, it is good practice to shape the underside of the bridge's base to suit the curve of the top of your instrument, which will lower it slightly at the same time.
Attachment 24730
Some food for thought and to show it can be done. Ooo, start a build diary if you haven't already, we love to see pics of what everyone is up to.

Grant