Printable View
Hey guys, need a lil help here. Was trying to even out the coat of white dye on this FS-1 kit when noticed that there's two large spots near the upper bout where the dye just doesn't stick to after a while. Might need to adjust your screen contrast to see it as picture turned out too white. Think I may have accidentally 'burnished' those parts trying to get the dye in.
How can I fix this? Appreciate the help, it's my first kit attempt!
I can't see anything, but i believe you.
The two main reasons why a dye wont take is because of a glue spot or because the grain of the timber has been sanded with too high a grit of sandpaper thereby "polishing" the wood and not leaving enough "tooth" for the dye to hang on. Both have a different way of "fixing" the issue
which of those culplits do you think it is?
What grit/grade did you sand up to and what is the dye/finish you're using?
They don't look like glue spots to me - too big and in the wrong place for that. I'd suggest it's the 'too high a grit' polish cause. The answer is to carefully go over those areas with a coarser grit, say 220. That should rough the wood up enough for the stain to take.
Well I've only sanded up to 240 so was pretty bummed about not knowing what happened. Decided to do a very light sanding again with 240 just to rough up the surface, and reviewed some woodworking videos on using wood dyes.
I think I have used the wrong method of trying to rub-on the dye in small amounts at a time instead of flooding/wipe-off resulting in a really blotchy and uneven outcome.
Also ran a damp(er) rag before applying the dye which I learned helps water-based colours (Liberon Palette Dye) to go on more evenly. Turning out better.
Looking a lot better. Doing it in patches will leave tide marks along the joins where you overlap, and you naturally get two lots of dye deposited. All-in-one is the better way.
You managed to sort it yourself, which is good. You'll find that there is very little that you can't recover from and get a great final result.
Great save newguyla, looks so much better and even now and I guess lesson learned. Great work!
Out of curiosity, what brand of dye are you using? I really like it
Hi John, I was using the Liberon Palette wood dye. The subsequent coats barely added to the first, and I'm currently trying to use artist paints to work as I've used to most of the Liberon dye.
Someone with more experience would probably know how to get the Liberon dye to work great.
OK, thanks. I’ll have to check them out. Are you having much luck with the paints?
Well, after 2 unsuccessful wet sanding attempts, I've attempted to sand the body back and re-apply the artist paint + tru oil color. Looking a real splotchy mess at the moment, does anyone know what I should do next?
JohnH, I think the artist paints will work great, but they do take some time to dry. My troubles with this method is probably due to having applied the Liberon beforehand instead of going straight to bare wood.
Hi buddy, just trying to figure out what effect you are aiming for?
The initial whitewash in the 2nd photo looked good and still showed some grain but in the three above it just looks like blotchy undercoat?
If the almost translucent whitewash is what you are chasing, time to lightly wet sand off a bit of the latest thicker coat.
wazkelly, the second photo was what I was going for before putting on the Tru Oil coats. However when I was wet sanding after getting about 7-8 thin coats of TO, the white got affected as well and I pretty much ended up where I'm at currently.
What should I be using for wet sanding? I tried using a mix of TO and gum turps and that didn't quite work for me
Wet sanding is best done with water that has just a drop of ordinary dishwashing liquid in it to help keep things lubricated.Quote:
Originally Posted by newguyla
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk