The JBA - 4 Begins.

Today,

I have bought myself a xmas present. I have ordered my first Ash body kit. The JBA-4 has an Ash body with a maple neck with Rosewood fretboard....nice.

I also ordered a Graphtech (TUSQ) nut, and the Tone Rider neck and bridge pickups.

I was considering better POTS, CAP, and BRIDGE. But no...this will do for now.

I am thinking of trying something different for finishing this time. I have just been to three places to price a home sized spray painting setup......I average four guitars a year and that cost is beyond me....ouch. I then thought about the spray can route....supercheap does a good mix and make it yourself price....the B.G.S. also has some White Knight Stuff that appeals.

But, I have made a P Bass in the past with a spray acrylic finish...it never dried....sanded and now stained green with wipe on poly over the top.

I searched some threads and found the Jazz Bass build of Keith Walters....

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7260

So I am thinking of trying a version of this approach. I think the Ash body would look great with a Cedar Colour from U-Beaut Stains...and I have a small bottle of color-tone Vintage Amber that I think will look wicked on the neck.

I jumped over to Feast Watson site and checked out their write up on the products for sealing porous wood.....hmmmm

Sanding Sealer......

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1504

The Fine Buffing oil.....

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1526

I have noticed that my colour laser printer is not printing as dark and dense as it did in the past on my water slide decal paper. Just wondering where people get their paper from? Maybe I should try a different supplier. Any suggestions will be diligently assessed. :)

I have names for all my guitars.....an Ash body Jazz Bass will have to think about this for a little. I already have a Jazzmaster called "Jezzebell." So she will be a dark brown colour with a lot of wood grain showing through......mmmm........Perhaps...."Jazzmine."

Awesome! Make sure you put up some picces once she arrives. Jazzmine is a great name!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Guy

Awesome! Make sure you put up some picces once she arrives. Jazzmine is a great name!

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It is a great honour to make a weapon of an ilk that is wielded by you mate. Thanks. :) Jazzmine she is. :)

I thought how can just having a look at Real Parts cause a hassle....yeah just a look....

1 x Wilkinson Bridge
3 x dish back CTS USA solid shaft pots...audio taper...the shorter ones designed to perfectly fit control plates and/or pickguards.
3 x proper sizing...2 volume and 1 tone...black set screw knobs...All Parts as well with two bigger black knobs and one smaller black knob.

1 x set of $48-00 All Parts Chrome bass tuners....recommended on a number of other bass threads.....

Total to Real Parts $107-40

Total to Pit Bull $301-00

So far:- $408-40

BGS tomorrow to try the stuff listed above......sealer and fine buffing oil....website......

https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...ealer_p1564778 $14-00

https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...g-oil_p1564809 $15-70

https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-...-pack_p1660127 $ 7-40

Sub Total:- $37-10

Grand Total:- $445-50. OUCH.

This syndrome is a tad costly....should take up something cheaper like smoking cigarettes. :)

I have trawled the Youtube woodworking channels and guitar building channels....the internet forums...blogs and anything about finishing wood I could find.

Plan:-

1. 80 grit sanding to clean up the machine marks all over the body.

2. I have downloaded a template for Fender J Bass headstocks.....choice of two models. So, Coping saw roughly and then rasp and file to shape. Sand the edges flat and to the line with 80 grit.

3. Sand body to 120 grit. Wet and check for glue marks...goof off...brass brush...sand 80 and 120 grit until all gone. (Sand around the fretboard and neck junction and the nut area to remove glue marks.

4. Tape up neck pocket and fretboard.

5. 3 x coats of Timbermate/Intergrain Ebony......thick to try and fill the Ash pores.....on the body...sanding to 180 grit between each coat. One coat of Baltic Timbermate/Intergrain to the neck and headstock.....sand to 180 grit.

6. Stain body with the U-Beaut Cedar stain. Stain the neck and headstock with the color-tone Amber stain. (Lightly dampen the surface and knock the nap away at 180 grit three times first.) (Lightly wet the body before applying the stain to try and stop tide lines.)

7. 1 x Coat of Feast Watson Sanding Sealer on both Neck/Headstock and Body......sand to 240 grit after dry.

8. Second coat of Feast Watson Sanding Sealer on both Neck/Headstock and Body......sand to 240 grit after dry. (Apply headstock decals at this stage after sanding....or in between the coats of sanding sealer????)

9. Numerous coats of Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil applied with 0000 steel wool. Buff with a fine cloth after each coat.....rinse and repeat until I am happy.

10. Leave to Cure for up to 14 days. Then auto products to get a final smooth and shiny finish...Meguiar's ultimate compound....scratch X 2.0......Bowden's Own body prep and Carnauba Wax.... a quick spritz with Quick Gloss Finish.

11. Fit the bits......and pluck away. :)

Real Parts parcel has arrived. I like the tuners...love the knobs...the bridge is a little different.

Come on PBG....make my day. :)

what are the tuners Ozz are they a mini elephant ear ? bit hard to see

Always exciting to get bits! Been going a little silly myself on that front - and there is still more to buy.

With the decal, I normally put mine on after the first coat. I do a sand of the area its going on in fine grit - 1500/2000, apply the decal and let it get really dry. Then build up clear over the top so you can sand back and remove the decal 'edge'.

Yes, be careful of sanding under a decal as this can show up a small fine scratches under the clear areas of the decal. I got caught like this! Now I will do a single coat, decal wiht no sanding and then some more coats to hide the decal edge.

Woks....full size elephant ear tuners from Real Parts...$48 for a set of four.

https://www.realparts.com.au/tuning-...rs-chrome.html

Guys....thank you so much for the decal advice. 😎🎶

Guitar order is still listed as processing????

They are great tuners ozzbike fantastic value for money and solid as

Woo Hoo the order has left the warehouse.....W.A. to Qld......mmmmmm...seven days is my guess.

Woo hoo Aussie Post reckons delivery today....wow five days from W.A. To Sunny Coast in Queensland.

I am like a kid next Monday.....ha ha ha.

Hey Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to You all.

Like much in life you get out of this forum what you put in. I love the fact that one and all are supportive, positive and nice non TROLLS.

Love this place. You are officially all nice people. 😎🎶

Wow can we have Xmas deliveries all year. Just got the aus post sms....it is onboard for delivery today. 5 days from start to finish of what would normally be 7 to 10. Nice.

Happy Christmas to you!

My friendly Aussie Post parcel man has delivered a big box to me.

Four piece body...nice figure....think it will come up well with the Ebony Timbermate. One stripe on the back. Neck is nice tight fit...got the usual square heel in a round pocket end.

Nice grain on the headstock too.

Sandra sanding woman time.... :)

Tone Rider PUPs and a Tusq Nut as well.

The body...pickguard and pickups and nut.

Hey Ozz,

got the same kit delivered to adelaide yesty, love the extras you chose, will look sweet. doin a mock of mine soon, will post in diary

cheers
guv

nice looking kit and upgrades Ozz, think I put those pups in my JB. You going active ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Guvna19

Hey Ozz,

got the same kit delivered to adelaide yesty, love the extras you chose, will look sweet. doin a mock of mine soon, will post in diary

cheers
guv

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Been reading your build diary as well. Wish you guys a Merry Xmas and a Happy building New Year. 😎🎶

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

nice looking kit and upgrades Ozz, think I put those pups in my JB. You going active ?

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Nah...not active...but considering dropping in a push pull pot to allow series/parallel switching of the pickups.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

Today,

I searched some threads and found the Jazz Bass build of Keith Walters....

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=7260

So I am thinking of trying a version of this approach. I think the Ash body would look great with a Cedar Colour from U-Beaut Stains...and I have a small bottle of color-tone Vintage Amber that I think will look wicked on the neck.

I jumped over to Feast Watson site and checked out their write up on the products for sealing porous wood.....hmmmm

Sanding Sealer......

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1504

The Fine Buffing oil.....

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1526

I have noticed that my colour laser printer is not printing as dark and dense as it did in the past on my water slide decal paper. Just wondering where people get their paper from? Maybe I should try a different supplier. Any suggestions will be diligently assessed. :)

I have names for all my guitars.....an Ash body Jazz Bass will have to think about this for a little. I already have a Jazzmaster called "Jezzebell." So she will be a dark brown colour with a lot of wood grain showing through......mmmm........Perhaps...."Jazzmine."

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I'm sure the manufacturers of these products are more than willing to offer you all sorts of "helpful" add-ons and doo-dads to supposedly improve your finished product. However all I used was the fine rubbing oil applied with 0000 steel wool, followed by Gilly Stephenson's Cabinet makers wax, and I can't really see how the finish could have been improved by using anything else. If you just spend 30 minutes or so on it each evening you'll have it done in no time; there's no mess or cleanup involved and it just smells like furniture polish.
Concerns about being able to finish the woodwork is one of the biggest impediments to people building these kits; being able to do the job on an ordinary kitchen table is obviously going to be more encouraging to people with limited facilities.
As I mentioned in another thread, I'm about to start building a strat copy, and I'm going to try using dyes from an inkjet refill kit to do the staining. In my experience, if that stuff gets spilled on unpainted wood, it's damned near impossible to remove, and you can mix it to an infinite variety of colours.
My current scheme is to have a "sunburst" type finish with green edges and yellow centre with some wattle leaves and flowers carved into the body.

If it all works out I was thinking of "inlaying" a valve into the woodwork with an orange LED to make it look like the heater is working, like I've done with this "steampunk" USB drive:

Attachment 23740

Thanks for the reply Keith.....love the USB drive...may have to get some cabinetmakers wax.

With the fine buffing oil......how many coats did you do? Did you wait until the oil was all done to put the wax on then....as I would expect....if so...how many coats of this stuff?

I fully intend to grab the ash grain and drag it out of the body with ebony timbermate....and then some cedar colour stain from U Beaut.

Did you use sanding sealer on your body? If so at what stage....before or after any colour.

Thanks and Merry Xmas.

I just did seven coats of buffing oil, that is 30 minutes each evening for a week, followed by another week using the furniture polish.
No sealer, no pre-sanding.
I first did a trial run on the area that's covered by the scratch plate, and it was obvious after a couple of days that it was going to work.
Actually, the maple on the neck is what takes most of the work; with the body probably 3-4 coats of each would be enough.
You basically just work it in with the 0000 steel wool for about 20 minutes, let it dry for another 10 or so, then give it a quick rubdown with a soft cloth. It's more like polishing a piece of furniture than painting.
I didn't do any staining because Fender actually make guitars with a finish that looks like mine.
To do the green/yellow sunburst thing, my scheme is to first brush the body down with a fairly weak solution of yellow inkjet dye, and then rub the edges with cyan dye, which should produce green. Needless to say, I'll try this with a piece of scrap wood first!

Thanks for the info Keith......I hope the printer ink works out well for you. :)

I think I got a good shape on the headstock.....found a full size PDF somewhere.

The Ash body has so many hooks bumps and spikes compared to Basswood.

I decided on and did use only one coat of Baltic pore filler on the neck, and walnut pore filler on the body.

Both came up very nice.

Big fail time.....the Feast Watson sanding sealer went on so well....glad I only did one coat though.....dry overnight....sanded 240 grit. Stuff is like soft plastic or a gummy wax.....funny finish to it.

Dust off....time for stain....Colortone Vintage Amber at correct StewMac dilution ratio....barely went in....light yellow tint.

U Beaut Cedar stain at a decent concentration made such a mess.....not happy Jan.

I think it is time to let dry.....sand to 120....pore fill again....180 grit dust off....then light shellac coat x 2 to even the finish....particularly on the end grain.....then try the stain again.

Still going to try the Fine Buffing Oil finish as opposed to Tru Oil or wipe on poly. But it seems our traditional body prep here just works. Nice to know. 😎

That stuff was so waxy it formed globs on paper even after a number of days drying. Wow.

Thank you to the gods of guitar building it all came off. Some work today...and then this afternoon the timbermate begins again. Walnut for the body and Baltic for the neck.

I hopefully will not be too embarrassed to post photos this time. :)

Hi Ozzie, good to hear the crap eventually came off. Wet sanding may have been a way of preventing sand paper from clogging up. I had a similar issue on the Swampy Tele and that was the only to fix things without using a full box of sandpaper.

Waz...I got it all off...and did the process again 80 girt, 120 grit, pore filler, 180 grit....on the neck 3 x damp and sand at 240...not so on the body.

Well still wet...but here are some piccies of the neck and body after stain applied and finish coat x 1 has been applied.

Neck...Vintage Amber colortone dye. One soak coat of Tru Oil applied.

Body...Cedar U Beat stain. One coat of Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil applied with 0000 steel wool.

Love the neck...the body is okay...see how we go with more coats.

First ASH body....love the grain. :)

Looking Good Ozz !

Mate....this one should be a breeze for you Oz....its only got one neck

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Originally Posted by Andy40

Mate....this one should be a breeze for you Oz....its only got one neck

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Ha ha ha. Hope it also has half the hassles. 😎

I have done five coats of the fine buffing oil over two weeks.....smoother finish...but colour of the stain eroded in some places....may nuke those areas and go again from 80 grit.

Just as an exercise I rubbed some of the Gilly Stephenson Cabinet Makers Wax on and hand buffed to see how it looks.

I quite like the finish.....see how it goes after 24 hours of curing and some more buffing.

Maybe four or five more coats of this over a two week period also. hmmmm.

I love what the oil and wax are doing to the Ash grain...if only I could get the colour even.

looking good Ozz. coming along nicely.

curious as to your plans for the rosewood fretboard? you thinkin maybe wax, oil or leaving raw?

Looks gorgeous already!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Guvna19

looking good Ozz. coming along nicely.

curious as to your plans for the rosewood fretboard? you thinkin maybe wax, oil or leaving raw?

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Oh definitely loads of dingo wax....well buffed and a swipe of Doctor Ducks at the end. I really like rosewood/Blackwood with a wax/oil style of finish.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bass Guy

Looks gorgeous already!

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BG I am falling in love with the more natural feel of oils and wax. I have done all my past efforts with a hard finish like Tru Oil or Polyurethane.

The look...feel...even texture of the body is so much more wth the natural finishes.

What have I been missing? Ouch.

I took a couple of days and many views...many rubs with a buff cloth.

Not the finished look I am looking for.....so nuked the body today.

Natural gum turpentine to loosen the wax.....sand off with 80 grit....clean up with 120 grit.

Two coats of walnut timbermate....sanded off with 180 grit.

One coat of shellac in preparation for restraining.....then hmmmmm....why not just natural.

So she has now had one coat of Fine Buffing Oil applied with 0000 steel wool. The colour from the timbermate has coloured the wood and marked out the grain....I like.

Left to hang until tomorrow and see what I shall see. Maybe a piccy then.

I have now done two coats of the Fine Buffing Oil...over 12 hours apart. I am liking the effect it is having on the grain...love how the walnut timbermate is coming through down deep.

But it is still not even......grrrrr....I must be sanding too hard or something.....even just with the timbermate....wow.

Love the end grain though...how cool is that. :)

I'm liking the look of the walnut timbermate on the ash, really nice.