I have finally started started my kit. My first time building one of these things and I probably need all the help I can get. I am going with a Outback Sunset Stain with Chrome hardware, I think that will turn out nice
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I have finally started started my kit. My first time building one of these things and I probably need all the help I can get. I am going with a Outback Sunset Stain with Chrome hardware, I think that will turn out nice
Good stuff, post lots of pics. We like pics.
You can avoid the forum uploader by hosting on something like Imgur and hot linking it here. I can post instructions if you are having trouble working it out.
Hi TYS, ask any questions you have here and we can help you out. Would be nice to see a pic of the kit and I'm keen to see the flame maple veneer to see if it's worth staining black first to pop the flames.
Here's an example of a LP-1M kit I did before staining
I have tried to post pics but can’t
you probably need to resize the picture to below 1MB and dimensions no larger than 1500 x 1500 resolution
My PRS-1H has been a challenge as my 14th axe build so trying it as a first build will certainly test your skills. I'm sure you'll get through it...!
Most of my photos are from my Samsung S5. I email them to myself on a PC as attachments reduced to 10% in size giving JPG picture file sizes of less than 500kb. Then when using the "Go advanced" menu here on the forum I upload using the paperclip icon... it's quick, easy, reliable, works well and has reasonable resolution, Never had a failure or complaint. Only limitation is 5 photos per post, so if you need more photos posted you simply have to post more replies.
Wokks did you do that by soaking the black up with a dry rag or sanding and what stain did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Hey Andy I covered the whole veneer in black stain and carefully sanded it back to achieve that result with a sanding block and probably 240 to 320 grit paper. That was about 3 years ago that build. I used FW proof tint black which is darker than Japan black - lucky DB doesn't read many posts these days haha
To get pics in your post the best way is to host on imgur.com
You sign up with an email address - very easy. Imgur is a community so you can actually make your stuff public and interact with people on there - but I use it purely for hosting and keep my profile private.
Anyway, this is what your library looks like - you can also break it up into albums, but this works for me.
https://i.imgur.com/FffDh2Sl.jpg
You can drag and drop directly onto this page from your desktop or a folder on your computer. You can do it with multiple images at the same time. or you can click 'add images' and hunt for them in the traditional way to upload.
https://i.imgur.com/RvTpvPIl.jpg
When you click on an image in your library, this box pops up. I usually choose 'large thumbnail' (in the bottom right hand corner) for forums like this. Then click on the 'direct link' code in the boxes on the right hand side. This automatically copies the code to your clipboard.
https://i.imgur.com/eyCnRl9l.jpg
Then come back to your Pitbul forum post and paste (Ctrl V) into your comment.
Then either side of that code you need to type (img) in front of it and (/img) behind it, but use the square brackets --> [.
(If you reply with quote to this comment, you will see what I mean re the brackets)
Then it will hotlink back to imgur and appear in your post. This also helps you get around the 5 photo limit on here. You can also post any size pic if you hot link, so you are not limited to the 1500px width or 1mb file size of the forum uploader.
But he's like Santa..Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
he sees you when you're posting,
he knows when you break the rules,
knows if you've used Feast Watson
or gone to Bunnings for your tools
So, you better to watch out........
lol nice FW
Oh that's good!
Attachment 23658
This a mock build of my kit, The neck fits, but has just a little bit of wiggle room,
I have started sanding, (Sorry no pictures), and is turning out well I sanded the veneer down to 400, as I did with everything else, I thunk I might stay with the pickups, but I am thinking of replacing the bridge.
Hmmm...Interesting... looks like you got chrome hardware... mine came with Gold hardware..
My neck fit gave me only a few mm of movement at the nut of which I needed to use nearly all of it to get the neck straight along the centre line. Be sure to have some temporary 'E' strings on when you set the neck else you may find that one of the E strings will leave the fretboard at the 24th fret. Had I glued my neck In the 'relaxed natural' position of the neck fit I would not have been able to use the high E above the 12th fret as there would not have been any fretboard under the string. When setting my neck and to get the temporary stings to sit correctly all the way down the neck I had to push the nut "up" (towards the low E) as far as it would go and then clamp the neck in that position.
Also the heel of my neck doesn't traverse the entire neck PU cavity. I inserted an appropriately sized wood filler block into my gap and glued it in which essentially joins the neck heel block and the wood between the PU cavities. I figure in some ways it may improve the strength of the neck join and may possibly affect sustain but mostly it makes sure that when I set the neck the string length is as close to ideal as I can make it. If you have a close look on my build photos (any I build with a set neck) you can see the 'neck end gap' in the neck PU hole that needed filling. I'll include a photo here which shows the 'block' more clearly...
Does the end of the fretboard have to line up with the start of the neck pickups cavity?
Also what bridge would you reccomend for this
The simple answer to this is no. It is more important to make sure that the scale length is correct. There are a few posts that cover neck positioning in detail on the site, but essentially the distance from the inside of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret on the high E string should be the same as the distance from the middle of the 12 fret to the bridge on that string.Quote:
Originally Posted by thyoungscientist
(See Gavmeister's post attached for details.. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=1895)
Is a Gotoh Wraparound Bridge Good?
How do you know it is the correct scale length
The only way is to get an accurate 1m or 36in ruler and measure it.Quote:
Originally Posted by thyoungscientist
Popular practice is to measure from the fretboard side of the nut to the PU side of the strings point of contact on the 12th fret, then double that figure to get your specific scale length.
The high E will often be very close to exactly that scale length figure that you just calculated, however due to the different thickness of the string the low E will usually be 5mm or so longer. This difference in length is needed (because of different thickness's of the strings) and is the reason why the bridge (or saddles like on a Strat build) often appears to "lean" slightly away from dead square to the strings.
Typically if you place the fretboard (when you set your neck) so that your scale length on the high E string falls approximately centre (or slightly fretboard side) of the adjustment range of your bridge then when it comes time to tune and intonate your build all your 'adjustments' will come together nicely and fall about mid range. Ideally this will also have the end of the fretboard very close to lining up with the PU cavity although it is not always the case.
On my PRS-1H build I did all those calculations and measurements and it worked out for me that the fretboard is about 1mm shy of the PU cavity, which leaves me with some handy shoulders for the PU rings to rest on and a fraction more wriggle room when mounting the PU's..... but as for how it will ultimately tunes up I won't know until I get some strings on it, which I suppose is the challenge we all face in building a guitar ...
wakka might be an idea for him to not do the black on it, guys doing there 1st build and doing the grain enhancement never goes well way to easy to sand through the veneer and buggering it upQuote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I have started Staining, and I am now on the final coat, it has turned not as I expected, but still quite nice,Attachment 23840Attachment 23841
I checked the Scale Legth and it is 25 inches, which I think is good, I am going to put the neck in next
That is a nice looking pattern on the body veneer....