Hey team, looking for nitro in burgundy mist.
Available overseas, but no body will ship to Australia.
It’s a 60’s Fender colour - a dusky metallic pink.
Looks like this:
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Hey team, looking for nitro in burgundy mist.
Available overseas, but no body will ship to Australia.
It’s a 60’s Fender colour - a dusky metallic pink.
Looks like this:
Surely Phrozin can source for you?
Hey Stan looks like this supplier will ship to AU?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Burgundy...item4888fe6789
Maybe try contacting Nello at GuitarAust, he doesn't list that colour but can probably order it in for you.
https://www.guitaraust.com.au/finish...-aerosols.html
Thanks mate but Gracey’s website specifically states shipping within the States onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
Quote:
Originally Posted by neverwas
Will try them thanks
I have bought my Nitro from www.sydneyguitarsetups.com I know they have their own paint machine. As far as I can see they don't have your colour in mind, but I'm sure they could mix it as a special order
Might be too late but check these guys in future...
http://www.sydneyguitarsetups.com/
Been doing some planning on my next build and a nitro finish is seriously on the cards... most probably with nitro from Sydney guitars setups.
Other than the expected 'toxic' warnings does anyone have any caveats or pointers to watch out for when finishing with nitro? Things about undercoats, wood base sanding grit levels and typical coverage area of their 400ml spray cans would be most helpful...
With nitro, the main things to consider when spraying are temperature and humidity. Not too cold and not too hot. 18°C to upper 20°s are ideal. Too cold and you get moisture trapped underneath the paint. Same effect happens with high humidity. Too hot and the spray can dry too quickly leaving the can and it can go on powdery.
Stick with nitro all the way through. Nitro sanding sealer, then nitro paint or tinted lacquer then nitro clear coat. The sanding sealer is mainly just thinned lacquer, but often contains a filler as well. That should soak into the wood and bind with it. It's not like a stain where you need to be careful about how much you 'polish' the surface. Even so, there's probably no need to go more than 320 grit before applying the sanding sealer. The solvent in nitro will always lightly 'melt' the layer underneath, and stick to that.
Don't forget to warm the cans up in warm water if it's on the cool side, This will help the paint to flow freely and not splutter.
This is the StewMac method for solid colours (I know others will have different methods but this is from the StewMac book):
Do one damp sanding (wet then sand when dry) to raise and sand off the loose grain.
Then spray a wash coat of diluted clear lacquer (5:1 thinners:lacquer) with some added retarder and let this soak in and dry.
Now grain fill (if using open pored wood)and sand back.
Spray on three coats of sanding sealer, one hour apart, and after at least 4 hours you can 'scuff sand' with 220 (a light sand with almost no pressure to remove fluff and any blobs on the surface. Wipe down.
Then 2 more coats of sanding sealer an hour apart. Let dry overnight.
Now sand back with 220 grit to get the surface flat. No shiny bits in dips should be left (check against a light at a shallow angle). If necessary, spray on more sanding sealer, leave overnight, and sand back again.
Now spray a couple of light layers of the solid colour, one directly after the other. Let it dry overnight.
Do a very light drag sand with P1500 or P2000 grit (only if necessary and just to remove bumps or a pebbly texture and be very careful with edges and corners to avoid sand-through). Obviously you need an even solid colour, so if it looks a bit patchy, you probably put the paint on a bit too lightly and will need at least one more coat.
Spray on three coats of clear lacquer an hour apart, ideally in the morning so that the lacquer has hardened enough to do a 220 grit drag sand in the evening. If not, wait overnight, drag sand and then wait until the next day.
Spray on three more clear coats an hour apart. Again at the end of the day (or the next morning) scuff sand but with P400 grit this time and let dry overnight (or wait another day).
Now give it a level sand to flat with P400. Again, no glossy dips and be careful on round edges and corners.
Wipe clean and then spray two more clear coats two hours apart.
Now let it dry for 2 weeks or more, then wet sand with P1500 or finer then buff/polish.
That's what StewMac say.
Now you can use an undercoat over the sanding sealer if you feel the colour of the wood is very uneven and might possibly affect the look of the solid colour (as you aren't spraying it on very thick). Sometimes the manufacturers like Fender used an undercoat, sometimes they didn't. But generally there's no need to.
Coverage from cans is obviously dependent of how much you use each time you spray. You'll probably need two cans of sanding sealer (and have some left over for another project), one can of solid colour and three of clear should do (that will include the neck).
Plus any other colour cans - say if you wanted a black headstock.
Thanks Simon ... very helpful...
With any spray paint, you get a two stage cooling effect. One as the propellant gas expands as it leaves the can, the other as the solvent evaporates (latent heat of evaporation). So if it's already on the cool side before you star spraying, then the paint will cool down a lot more as you spray. Get it cool enough to saturate the air and you'll get moisture droplets forming on the drops of paint, and trapped under paint arriving on top of it, which is why you can get the misty effect. The solvent in nitro is pretty volatile, so it evaporates quickly and cools down a lot more than many other paints, making it more susceptible to low temperatures.
The more humid the air, the less it needs to cool down before it reaches saturation and form those small droplets.
I'm guessing that investing in one of those little weather stations that tell temp and RH might be a good idea if coating in nitro is a definite. And the pick warm and dry as the ideal time to spray... 25C @30%RH probably being close to ideal
50%RH is fine. It's when its 80% plus that it becomes an issue when warm, maybe 70% when it's cooler.
Be wary of the %RH values from the low cost weather stations as they are normally quite inaccurate on the %RH side, maybe ±10% at best. Use it as an indicator, rather than as an absolute guide. Also, it needs to be in the place you're working rather than outside. And remember that it needs to be kept out of direct sunlight or you'll get higher temperature and lower %RH readings.