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Attachment 22365
Attachment 22366
...what??...I need something to keep me occupied whilst the Jassmaster is curing
Open to any and all suggestions on how to finish this one. Would staining it a nice red or blue hide the wood grain too much? Should I just lacquer it natural?
hey Freakey, sweet looking spalted Tele
anything other than natural top would be criminal ! You can stain the sides/back any colour would look great
or possibly a light stain on the spalt but nothing dark will hide that amazing figure
Yep as per Wokka
Ohhhhhh.....interesting!!!:cool:
In wokka we trust! 🤘🏽
haha Freaky the stain colours are entirely up to you but if it was mine I would go natural or a really light yellow/gold or a light brown stain should work well. Possibly a light red stain would work too.
Anything but blue as that would come out too dark.
Red should work fine as I remember Andy's Red Spalted LP that looks great. Plenty of Coolangatta Gold spalted ones look stunning too.
Agree with Waz. Go red!!!
Anyone any photos of a red spalted kit?
Sure
here it is again
Attachment 22384
Its Karajini Red popped with Ebony Timbermate;)
I've seen some great spalt finished in really diluted walnut stains just to give it a bit of depth. Great looking kit
I think I have decided to leave the top natural and stain the back and sides blue or red. Finish it with a gloss lacquer.
A good choice. Personally I think you get the best from spalted tops if natural or only very lightly tinted, otherwise you loose a lot of the fine detail in the spalt.
Attachment 22486
The wood grain on the sides of this body are so hard to sand! Really hard wood. Anyone any tips? I'm sanding with the grain up and down. I'm starting to get some scuffs on the binding too, anyone tips on how to get them out?
With end grain, it's best to follow the grain lines, looking at your photo, you'll have some challenges ahead of you, but it will be worth it in the end.
As for the binding, don't be too worries about that. You can scrape it later to smooth out the finish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNbsZsSabPs
End grain is tricky. If the machine marks are not coming out, then you are almost certainly not actually sanding with the grain. I have also found that the end grain of the different pieces can be at 90 degrees to each other. Try sanding the end grain at 90 degrees to how you have been sanding so far and see if the machine marks start to sand out.
Attachment 22662
First coat on the top, happy with how it’s bringing out the grain.
I’m spraying the back and sides. I’m spraying on to the wood (no primer) hoping the wood grain will show through. Any advice on this? Sand/spray/sand finer/spray/sand finer/spray etc etc?
Looks great.
Sounds like you may need to do a lot of sanding on the sides and back otherwise imperfections will show though the finish. Very tempting to dive in and get on with finishing it off but that may require double, or maybe even triple the number of top coats to flatten and smooth out a not so good prep, not to mention risk damaging the gorgeous top.
For the back and sides, the first coats on untreated wood are going to sink in without adding much depth, so I'd wait until maybe 4 coats before doing some sanding. I'd also try and spray some extra coats on the end grain as it is very absorbent. You don't want to break back through to the wood otherwise you'll get more sinkage on the bare patches.
Attachment 22942
Really happy with how the neck is turning out. Same as the body Coolangatta gold, but the body took to it completely differently. 2 weeks to cure then a sand and polish
That neck looks great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freakystyley
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I agree! Very nice!
Reviewing the body of this kit I have found a problem I’m not sure how I missed it.
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Glue marks I assume are from the binding
Problem is I have already stained the top. It is a splated maple veneer so I assume I can’t sand back and use goof off as I will probably sand through the veneer.
Any advice on how to proceed? I want to try keep the veneer and not have to sand through or spray a solid colour.
All I can think to do is use goof off on the problem areas and because they are around the sides try a black stain to burst? But I’ve never tried that. Any other ideas are welcome.
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It's quite subtle. I'd go a Jarrah or a Mahogany stain sunburst with an airbrush, don't think you would need to go black to hide that if you were going the sunburst route...
+1 on that. A bit of a darker shade across the top and it will recede.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
I’ll look into it. Never done a burst before and I don’t have an air gun so it would be a wipe on burst
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Light sand to the affected areas, add some more stain, let it dry for a few days then delicately add a bit more finish. Can sometimes work or at least minimise the visiblity of what you were trying to disguise. I'd try this before going the burst.
Light sand with 240?300? Super scared of going through the veneer
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Heres a painters trick, lightly sand any top coat you have applied to the affected areas so it dulls or flattens it off, using mabe 400 to 600, always go with the grain. Then get a very small artists brush and using diluted stain exactly paint over the lighter affected areas, if you apply too much gently smudge with a clean cloth until you have the desired blending. Remember if is slightly darker it will look like the grain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freakystyley
You can apply as many coats as needed to blend the colour and when your satisfied with the results seal it. I use this technique when ive had to do repair work on furniture. Hope this helps.
Nice idea!
[emoji1417][emoji1417] I reckon I’ll try that beforehand burst. Thanks!!
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Thanks @nitroburner1000 I was able to sand out most of the glue marks and restrain to make them barely noticeable. Thanks for your help.
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Top and binding masked and ready for spraying. I have no idea what this will turn out like but I am going for a bit of a strange colour combo. Maybe someone can input here but I am spray a few coats of sanding sealer on but as it is ash it is soaking it all up. I will be spraying nitro on top but would still like to see a bit of the grain pattern BUT would also like the finish to be flat. Would I be able to put sanding sealer on top of the colour once it’s cured and then lacquer to get it flat...I have no idea what I’m doing [emoji16]
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Interested to see what this combo will look like together
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I like that, sort of a stressed silver blue look. Cool.
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Had a look at the pitbull tele wiring diagram but the switch connectors look different than the ones on the switch im using. Is there another diagram anywhere? It is still a 3 way switch
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What brand/model switch is it? I don’t recognise it from that angle so I need a bit more info before attempting to offer (bad) advice.
Says patent pending on the side.
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I think that a gentle blue gel would look great.
Looks like jeans on a boutique coffee drinking hipster... :cool:
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Any tips of getting lacquer runs out? Sanded down until it was flat but it seems to have eaten into the paint too. Might mask the front sides of the headstock and completely sand the front off and re spray...
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