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Hi - JUst completed an SG 1 Kit and am generally happy with it - however the action at the top of the neck (i.e., above the 12th fret ) is too high. I've tried adjusting the neck but that hasn't improved the action noticeably. Wondering whether to try to recess the bridge studs into the body by a few mm might work to reduce the action. Are there any other options I should consider?
G'day mate. If you could add a picture or two, that would help diagnose the problem.
Hi Caitken, is the SG-1 kit a set neck ? Don't sink the bridge posts. The nut could and probably is too high and you can adjust your truss rod could reduce the action above the 12th fret. The neck may have bad back bow would cause the strings to be too high.
Can you please post a couple of pictures of your current setup from the side of the neck?
Was the neck heel glued flush in the pocket ?
The neck is set and was glued flush - I've tried truss adjustment but doesn't seem to have made too much of a difference. Photos uploaded
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Hi Caitken,
the nut is a little high but the string height at 22nd fret is way too high. Have you tried winding the truss rod clockwise like the diagram ? Loosen the string tension before you do that.
While it is tuned put a long steel ruler along the fingerboard and see if you can work out if the neck has back or forward bow. Also have a look down the neck from the bottom of the guitar and see if the neck has been pulled a little out of the pocket so the headstock is higher than it should be.
https://www.proguitarshop.com/media/...adjustment.gif
Yes - have tried clockwise adjustment of truss - see photos - the neck has slight curve back, the neck join is flush. The only thing I can see that would give the degree of improvement needed would be to lower the bridge studs. Its almost like the neck is angled incorrectly - however this would mean that it was originally machined incorrectly.
Placing a ruler on the neck shows it has a slight backward bow.
Any alternative suggestion - running out of options here ;)
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Caitken I will compare your pics to my SG-1F and see if anything is different like fingerboard heights etc.
Try winding the truss rod all the way anti clockwise and leave for a day. Let us know if the action gets worse than it is now. Then try winding it all the way back clockwise. It may take a few days for the neck to settle under string tension.
If that doesn't work then you may have to sink the bridge posts.
Cool - would appreciate the comparison (could post some photos?). In the meantime I've set the truss totally anti-clockwise - and will leave it overnight and then re-try clockwise.
It may not be worth sinking the bridge posts as you'll only gain about 1-1.5mm as the bottom of the bridge will then hit the body. You'd be better off deepening the notches on the saddles to get the same result. It's a lot easier! The nut slots also look a bit high, so sanding down the base of the nut or using nut files to deepen the slots will also help get the action down a bit.
However, it really looks like the neck angle needs to change, which means removing the neck and doing some sanding. Now, removing the neck won't be that easy and hopefully you used PVA,standard Titebond or hide glue to glue it in the first place.
There are lots of YouTube video about removing necks, but basically you either need to use steam or a hot spatula in the joint, or warm the wood up as best you can to get the glue to soften whilst gently but firmly prising the joint apart.
Thinking if I have to go to this level of effort I should be asking for a refund or replacement neck at the very least.
Hi Caitken, whereabouts in the world are you? Perhaps you are near another board member who can have a look at it.
Brisbane based - but fast forming the opinion that the neck or body slot has been incorrectly machined. I've put out a call for anyone with the same kit to send me photos of the neck join so I can to a visual comparison.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Comparing it to the one I'm doing at the moment (slightly different model) it looks very much like the neck pocket has not been routed quite deep enough. What glue did you use to glue the neck in?
Edit: I'm in Brisbane and would be happy to help if there's anything you're unsure of.
Hi Caitken, sorry I forgot to post a photo of my SG-1F, I will do so tonight and post it.
The neck should have a 3 to 4 degree rake angle downward, is the neck flat with the body Caitken or does it angle back a bit ?
Maybe the neck pocket hasn't been tapered.
EDIT found a pic of the neck pocket and heel I had to chop off the black areas to make mine work. Check out the neck pocket looks deeper than yours and mine is tapered correctly
It's all down to small adjustment that needed to be made to the neck heel during construction. Things like this are why it's strongly suggested that you start a build diary on the forum, so we can suggest checks to make along with solutions to problems found before it's too late. None of these kits are 100% perfect, we've all had to deal with different imperfections.
Hopefully Pablo can help with your issues.
yeah Caitken, as Simon suggests see if Pablo can have a look over it to work out whether the neck needs to be removed.
My thoughts are the neck pocket is probably flat where it should taper toward the front of the pocket.
Thats why we always recommend a full mock build with both E strings on before you glue the neck in place.
So how did this turnout? Well the problem was that the neck slot had two thin veneer shims on either side - the glue holding these filed so although the neck was glued it was only secured on the bottom. I removed the neck (disturbingly easily) and then re-glued (shims were still attached either side of the neck when I removed it)... and problem solved - now have awesome action on this rig!! HAve to say I'm not that impressed by the titebond glue (first time I've used it) - thinking that PVA might work a whole lot better - although would have had the same problem with the veneer coming away. Anyway - happy with the end product - just a bit of a weird problem to have encountered.
well done Caitken, was worth removing the neck and shimming. Glad you got a good result.