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Hi Everyone,
I'm using Tru Oil on my LP body. I'm coming up to the 25 coat mark, which will hopefully be the final coat for my build. I'm after a high gloss finish on the top, does anyone have any tips? (I know people say to wet sand using tru oil, but unfortunately I found that information a bit too late.( I've used 4 0 steel wool just about after every coat.))
Cheers,
U1F
I use super fine wet and dry paper, 1200, 1500 and 2000, then I go to course cutting compound then finally ordinary car polish. Some folk use micro mesh pads and work up through the grits with excellent results too.
Hey U1F, welcome to the forum. As Dedman says wet sand to 2000 grit and cutting compound and car polish. I use the micro mesh pads with some soapy water 1500 to 10000 grit then auto polish gives good results. Make sure the last coat has fully cured - couple of weeks if you can wait that long before you start the process
Hey dedman and wokka, thanks for the swift reply. Are there any specific brands of cutting compound and car polish which you would recommend?
where are you from U1F ? Most good quality auto compounds will do the job. I use Meguiars polish are very good
Hi U1F, as Wokka said, most good quality auto cutting compounds and polishes will do the trick, but try and avoid ones that contain silicone if you can. There are huge debates on the internet about whether to use silicone based products on guitars. I don't know who's right but I believe that once it goes on it will be very hard to "touch up" any repairs.
rob
Yes, the ability to repair a finish is compromised by having silicone on it. There are solvents that will remove it, but they''ll probably take half your finish with it as well. It's easier to avoid them and still get a really nice finish.
Wokka, I'm from QLD. I'll definitely have a look at Meguiars.
Robin and Simon, thanks for the advice. I'll keep my eyes peeled.
It's never too late to wet sand!Quote:
Originally Posted by U1F
Ahaha. You're right Franken - it's never too late.
Just a question to anyone, (forgive my knowledge here) when wet sanding, am I to use the tru oil, mineral spirits or another form of lubrication?
Cheers!
Hey U1F, I usually use a spray water bottle with a drop or 2 of dishwashing liquid works well. No need to use any spirits or turps. Have a clean rag to wipe the excess water off. Run your fingers over the body and hold it up to the light and you should see any areas that need more sanding.
Use a sanding block and spray the water onto the sandpaper
Hey Wokka, thanks so much your help.
Thanks everyone who posted too.
Your help is definitely appreciated!
no worries U1F, how long since your last coat ? I'd wait 2 weeks for it to fully cure.
Wokka, I've just put in a coat this morning. This is my current working pattern. Please do correct me if I'm wrong. I'm on about coat 23 and wet sanding after each coat, working my way up in the grits. Then on the final coat, I'll wait 2/3 weeks, wet sand it down and then start with the compound and polish.
Thanks for helping me out, I'm new to all of this ahah.
sounds good U1F. Probably only need to wet sand every 3-4 coats. You really only need to build up enough to sand it flat. No need for that many coats. Usually thin coats are the best and probably 5 or 6 thin coats usually will be enough.
Hopefully with the wet sanding between coats the final wet sand and polish should be minimal. Does it look flat the clear finish ?
Awesome, thanks Wokka. Yeah it's looking flat right now. When you're working up in the grits, how many wet sands would be best per grit?
So how much Tru Oil do you guys typically use when finishing. I've seen several places that say one of the small bottles is enough to do multiple guitars, but I'm about 3/4 through one of the large bottles, and it seems I still have a long way to go.
Hi Spy, how many coats have you applied ? Best apply more thin coats than less thick coats so it fully cures before the next coat.
I hope you mean a 8 oz bottle and not a 32 oz bottle ?
I've done multiple entire guitars out of a small bottle. I only use it for necks now and the last few have only had 5 really thin coats.
Haha. Yes, the 8 ounce bottle. I'm about 12 or so coats in and while it's starting to get some good shine, I'm not seeing much build up. I'm wondering if I'm using too much and just wiping most of it off. I typically dribble a bit on, then wipe it in until it starts getting a little tacky.
Spy, 12 coats is about twice as many as you need. Sounds like you are applying it too thick. How much time have you allowed to cure between coats ?
I would give it a light wet sand with 800 or 1200 grit and try applying thin coats. Don't put much TO on the rag
That's what I was afraid of. I generally give it about 24 hours between coats.
I'd say that's the problem Spy, what sort of temperatures are you having in Louisiana ? Don't worry I can convert fahrenheit to celcius.
I would leave it for a week but you should be allowing 2-3 days curing between coats and longer if they are thick coats.
I'd say the coats underneath haven't cured properly and never will
There are several methods to applying TO that end up with different results.
The Birch Casey method suggests almost buffing the liquid dry as it is applied....not my preferred option.
Another is full strength and a light wipe all over with not much working into the surface....extreme opposite of above leaving a 'wet' appearance.
These days I tend to alternate between initial 4-6 coats full strength 'wet' coats then a light 1200 wet sand, followed by 50:50 diluted with turps for another 3 or 4 coats wiped on until almost dry then 1500 wet sand, repeat process a few more times moving up to a 2000 wet sanding. Every now and then a wet sand may strip a bit too much off and the odd full strength coat adds a bit more thickness to continue working with. Eventually it will start to feel glassy to touch whilst wet sanding and this is letting you know almost done.
Looked up Latitude for Louisiana and it is similar to Coffs Harbour on our East Coast which is considered a sub tropical climate with minimal humidity. Where I live is 3.5 degrees latitude closer to the tropics and still considered sub tropical with moderate humidity but not all the time. Use TO on everything, sometimes applying a couple of coats a day with no dramas. Have noticed that on really hot days its goes tacky quicker, which can be an issue for full strength coats and if it looks like rain, maybe just one diluted coat and give it a couple of days to fully cure before doing any more.
It pays to mix things up a bit to find what works best for you and not be in a rush to get it finished. Slow and steady can save a lot of time and effort sanding back rushed mistakes.
Temps in Louisiana are a tough question. :) For most of the process, we've been in the 90s F. Humidity is always fairly high. The last week, we dropped from mid-80s to below freezing in 24 hours, then back into the 70s in 24 more hours and back into the 80s later this week. The work is being done inside, so things are a bit more stable where the guitar is actually sitting.
The first three or four coats I put on really just seemed to soak right into the wood. Took 10 or 12 before I started to get a little shine on it and it started feeling a little smoother to the touch. It just seems like I'm using a lot of oil for not a lot of results.
Some bodies are thirstier than others and not uncommon for little evidence of progress until 10 or more coats have been done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spychocyco
Try a few thinner diluted coats as whilst they go on easier they also help to level off and bring on the shine.
Don't think your local weather is an issue, very similar to here in South East Qld.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Question..is it possible to dilute TO with Gum Turps? Anyone here tried that?
I've hear of peeps diluting 50/50 with mineral turps but not gum turps
Yep, me too. I also vaguely recall reading that someone did it - on a rifle or woodworking forum I think it was. They said that gum turps gave a bit more of a sheen from memory Am just curious to see if I can use what I already have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
What say ye, Waz?Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Never tried Gum Turps on anything so cannot comment. Probably works the same as mineral turps to dilute it down which helps spreading it with a rag a bit better as when local temps start getting up there in the 30's together with higher humidity Tru Oil has a tendency to feel very sticky & tacky when being applied thus making a smooth layer just a little bit more difficult. Adding just a few drops initially may be the better way to go as 50:50 ratio ends up very watery and increases the risk of runs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
Cheers, Waz
Beaut, thanks mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Yep gum turps works its what ive been usling
Good to know. Smells better too!Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
You know the other day I was using mineral turps and had the bottle in my left hand and a coffee in my right and was listing to mustic and thinking about the top on my guitar.
Took a swig from the wrong hand. Luckily I instantly spat it out as soon as it hit my tongue.
I survived. it was a bit tongue burney.
What a goose.
Igor recommends a dash of lemon and some sugar with your turps. Makes it less bitey he says.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Thats funny funny ha haQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
D'oh! Lucky you didn't have a smoke with your coffeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy40