Hi all,
I started my first project, a jazz bass.
All going well so far but I need some advice on the placement of the bridge.
Can anyone assist?
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Hi all,
I started my first project, a jazz bass.
All going well so far but I need some advice on the placement of the bridge.
Can anyone assist?
Colin - have I got a deal for you! (just kidding) - our resident luthier DingoBass has prepared a tutorial for just this eventuality (or in reality for my P Bass), but the thought was there... Have a look at this and let us know if you have any questions...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3048
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/videos/#mg
These are the video guides, have a look through for the one you are after - on bridge placement.
Just a quick way for position: Measure from the edge of the nut the faces the bridge to the crown of the 12th fret.
Take that measurement and measure from the 12th fret crown to the bridge - that measurement is the approx position for where the bridge saddles should be.
Also google scale length and bridge placement and have a read - hope it helps
No so sure with bass, but I'd start at the mid point which gives you the most range for intonation later
Hi Colin, J Bass has a 34" scale which is usually measured from inner side of the nut to the top of the thin G string saddle (middle of the round barrel). As the thicker strings are installed they will need to be lengthened to achieve proper intonation and therefore suggest having the G saddle wound a long way forward on the standard kit supplied bridge so that you have enough adjustment travel for the other strings, and particularly the low E. If you have a spare Fender style Bass handy it is a good idea to take some measurements off that to provide some sort of base reference marker points to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by colin2121
Caution: Most standard string gauges are 45-100 which is quite light on the thinner strings and can sound a bit thin on a Jazz with both pickups on full volume. When I switched to the next heavier gauge of 50-105 discovered that the standard bridge did not have enough travel to re-intonate properly and ended up having to buy an aftermarket Gotoh style bridge. If you are happy with light strings, no drama. For me the feel and sound of the next size up was worthwhile and the better hardware has provided me with more scope should I choose to go back to skinny's. Should also mention this was using Round wounds as Flats seem to mostly be 45-100's.
Cheers, Waz
Sorry Colin - missed this one -
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...wtopic&t=280.1 should be:
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=1895
Other should go: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=1873
I've updated them - legacy of a change of name to separate the forum and the web shop from a couple of years ago.
Brendan
You'll have a flat-bottomed nut on your bass.
+1 for Simon's comment - def flat bottomed.
+2 for flat bottom and measures about 41mm wide.
Plenty of cheapies on the net and eBay but recently installed a bone one from DB here at PBG and whilst they seem pricey at around $28 it is well worth every cent. It was the 2nd DB PBG Bone nut I have installed, the 3rd was put in my latest Tele build over the weekend and the 4th is on it's way for the MMB-4 build that is about to start soon.
And yes, I do have a collection of others that either did not fit, were cut too low, or supposedly made from graphite and in the end probably cost me more in time and effort than buying a quality product first. If you let DB know you need a Lefty he can do that too as that may not be so easy to source online elsewhere.
Cheers, Waz
Don't cut down the slots. Put some sandpaper down on a flat surface and sand off a small amount from the bottom of the nut and re check. Rinse and repeat until you're happy.
The Gavmeister had a rule of thumb where you capo at the 2nd fret or 3rd fret and it should just clear the first fret or something like that. Can any one else remember the details, because I can't right now.
Yes Fretworn has got it. At least the way I do it.. put a capo on the 2nd fret, since it's a bass if you don't have a capo just use your finger and pres hard across all strings, and you should be able to slide a piece of paper or two between the first fret and the strings. Of course there are other things to consider with these kits like neck angle and saddle height, but assuming that all of that is ok, that will give you nice low action.
Personally I'd cut the slots down rather than file the base of the nut, but both methods work. On a bass you can use round needle files to deepen the slots rather than the nut files you really need to use to cut a guitar nut. If the nut slots are considerably deeper than now, then you can also file down the top of the nut, then sand it smooth and polish it (masking off the nearby fretboard and headstock for protection. Just be careful to try and achieve a good semi-circular bottom to the slot and not to widen it more than the width of the string.
Only do a small bit at a time and keep checking the height above the fret. Don't go too far! You need to do this with the bottom filing method as well, which makes filing the slot a lot quicker as you don't have to keep slackening and re-tightening all the strings when removing and replacing the nut.
You'll then want to run some medium and fine grit paper through the slot and you can even use something like brasso for a final slot polish.
But only adjust the nut once you've 1) adjusted the neck relief for a very small amount of concave bow and 2) adjusted the saddle heights for a playable action on the fretted strings. Only then will you be able to accurately judge the string height above the 1st fret.
Depress the string at the last fret, measure between the bottom of the string and the top of the pickup, you are after about 2-3mm
Here is what Fender say about bass setup:
https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/...itar-properly-
nice looking JB Colin well done. Bone nut is a good upgrade well worth it. How does it sound and play ?
Looks really good. Not sure about my choice of a maple fret board for my JB. The contrast of body colour, fret board and head stock looks really great.
Don't worry about it. It will look fine and a rosewood board JB can be the next project!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed51
Great work Colin, looks really good.