dingo tone black stump

Hi all, am new to forum, I got a 64 melody maker, routed for a humbucker, sanded down ready to stain. Are there any tips/useful points I could use before I begin? Am a tad nervous, dont wanna ruin it ofcourse. I got neck stain and the body one too. I watched the tutorials but was wondering do you do just one side at a time, wait for it to dry and repeat it etc, or do you do one side, let it dry, turn it over and do that side, let it dry then turn it over again etc? Probably a silly question, but just incase. anything else appropriate to the task would also be appreciated. Am gonna watch the tutorials one more time and get stuck in. Are you able to post photos in this forum? I will post some before n afters. Cheers

Hi Jody, with photos, they just need to be less than 1000px on the longest edge.

Then just use the insert image icon to post up to 3 images per post.

There's a post on images in the FAQ thread.

BTW, I mistakenly removed a post of yours on another thread, as it had been flagged as spam. Obviously it wasn't. So, apologies for that, but this thread will get you any advice you need on using Dingotone.

Hi Jody.
It is best to rig up a hanging device, such as a chunk of tree screwed into the neck pocket.
I always do the whole body in one go, that way when you can get a nice even cure.

No neck pocket, DB. It's a 1964 Gibson Melody Maker that's being refinished (if I'm reading the OP correctly), so it's an existing set neck. So you could take the tuners off and hang it up using the tuner holes, but it might be rather awkward and it would be difficult to do the back of the headstock whilst hung up if you tried to do it all in one go.

Split it up into body (hung up) then neck (laid down)?

If it has a side mounted jack you can rig like this, assuming you have the space and materials:Attachment 18110

The jack socket is front mounted on a small scratchplate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

No neck pocket, DB. It's a 1964 Gibson Melody Maker that's being refinished (if I'm reading the OP correctly), so it's an existing set neck. So you could take the tuners off and hang it up using the tuner holes, but it might be rather awkward and it would be difficult to do the back of the headstock whilst hung up if you tried to do it all in one go.

Split it up into body (hung up) then neck (laid down)?

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D'OH!
Obviously I did a bloke read.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

The jack socket is front mounted on a small scratchplate.

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I need to review my guitar history, cheers Simon!

I just have more time to sit and Google!

hey guys, thanks for the info, I have finished the basic stain, should I steel wool it before I proceed to the intensifying coat? Then its time for the top coat, do you put top coat on the neck as well as the neck top coat? Do I need to steel wool between these steps? Cheers

Hi Jody, a light steel wool between all coats can help remove any high points and any fluff from the rag that has stuck to the body. For the neck just use the neck top coat if you have a neck kit, the neck kit top coats generally cure a bit harder for the work a neck requires.

Hi,

Can someone help me! I've used Dingo tone stain on my TLA body only to have the stain bleed through the end grain now I have runs
Showing up on the front and rear face of the guitar. The timber seems not to want to take the stain evenly. Is there anyway this can be fixed i.e. by applying some form of thinner to even out the coating?

George

Any photos George? Hard to say from your description.

Hi George,

Like Brendan said Its a little difficult to know without seeing pics. Were you attempting to have the top a different colour from the sides? or were you just staining all of the body one colour?

It is true that any stain will take more (ie be darker) on the end grain rather than the top. Its like clutching a bunch of straw, it will soak up more on the end.

You can simply sand the DT away where you don't want it though.