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Well, the title says it all; is it possible to change the color of the binding?
I'm up for a LP kit and my goal is to make something alike the Gibson Les Paul Red Widow. I'm still in doubt to go for a flame veneer or the quilted topveneer. I think both look awesome in that particular color.
However, the 'finishing touch' would be a red binding instead white/creme. So, would this be possible and if yes, how should I do that?
Thanks in advance!
You could email Adam (or whatever supplier you choose) about a custom order. However red binding isn't a common binding colour, but you can ask. Alternatively maybe you could get a kit with the binding routing done but no binding applied. It would save removing the original binding (which has been done here by a few people). Otherwise it is simply a case of working away at the old binding until it comes off, clearing up all the glue residue and fitting new binding.
Hi Simon, thank you for your reply. It could be an option to order a kit without the binding. I'll keep that in mind.
I looked into doing a custom order on my LP, with black binding, however it adds a fair bit to the price, and then you have to wait an extra 6-8 weeks for the delivery of it.
Ok, a black binding is (of course) black. But in my case I have to order a soft reddish, slight pink or perhaps some purpleish color. In other words; how could I explain the color I'm looking for? It all depends of the finished color of the top and that color is still a surprise. So I don't think that a custom order will do. Unless someone has a good idea I think I'll settle with the original color of the binding.
Kick - it is possible to remove the binding and put your own binding on - not that hard - just takes time. In general though, the range of binding plastics that are available is quite limited (check eBay). You could possibly find the right colour through a plastic supplier maybe?
I'll have a look at eBay Brendan, thanks. Perhaps I can find something that makes it worth the effort of doing it myself.
Another thought would be either no binding at all so that you can paint one on or alternatively paint over the existing binding in the colour you want.
Cheers, Waz
Hi Waz, you're heading towards my thought; why not paint the binding with the same dye I'm going to use for the top. As said before I want to create some kind of LP Red Widow and I think I will use simple red stamping ink to get the flames pop out. I could use that same ink to color the binding (perhaps in a lighter mix with more water added to the liquid). Only point is, wil it stay or wear of?
Hi Kick, Stamp Pad Ink is predominately water based and therefore may not stick too well on the plastic binding. If it did, it may be translucent at best and still show some of the underlying binding colour. Also recommend red fountain pen ink instead of stamp pad ink as the colour choices are more vibrant. I also found when using black stamp pad ink that it doesn't dilute down too well and seemed to have an oily residue. End result was Yuck and it was a big pain to sand off - took 2 days and lots of wet sanding. On my Red J Bass I almost ordered some ink from Germany via eBay but ended up buying locally in my home state in Australia. For the colour check it out in my signature (build #4).
Auto pinstriping may have a colour close to what you want and clear top coats should easily go over it so that it becomes part of the overall finish. I think the pin stripes would be made from vinyl and should be easy to trim down if required.
A bright red permanent marking pen could be another option but reckon that may be too fiddly and show 'lift off' marks from where you have taken a rest to then hit the next section.
Masking up and using an auto rattle spraycans just on the binding would ensure you get exactly the colour you want. A bit more work but allows you to customise it how you want.
Cheers, Waz
Any colour on binding will risk being removed if it is not locked in with a clear over.
Another option might be timber binding harder to put on, but if you got a really light coloured timber you could stain or paint it just about any colour you wanted and i think it would adhere better
Or you could order a body not routed for biding at all and do it with paint or pinstriping.
Thanks again Waz for your information. Really appreciate it allthough you made me doubting again on what would be to best approach. Perhaps I should go for finishing the body itself and just see how it looks like.
Perhaps something like this could be an option for you?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-Cell...YAAOSwkNZUavig
Or this , if you need a plainer look..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Red-ABS...kAAOSw91NTt1cz
@ Zandit, great ideas but not sure I'd be up for the challenge. Big job if you were new to kit building.
@ Kick, pin striping would be the easiest..... maybe something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-x-9-8...3D322197999740
Attachment 17496
Thanks Zandit75! Those bindings looks great but as Waz is saying, it would be a challenge for me as a first time kit builder.
And I just ordered my LP-1MQ kit! Can't wait for it to arrive :)
This might be a more relevant thread to put my questions from my Silent guitar thread.
Does anyone know if you can change the binding on a neck without removing any frets?
Also, what glue is best to use for installing binding against timber?
It will depend on the fret ends.
If they fall short of the binding, no dramas.
If they sit over the binding it is more of a challenge, mainly due to access to the route for removing the old glue. Can be done but is a major pain in the butt, so, generally speaking it is easier to remove the frets.
Another challenge is getting the binding to sit snugly under the fret ends...
There are a few glues you can use for binding. I use a thick CA glue and picture framers tape to hold the binding in place.
You can also use good ole Tarzans grip but you will need to leave it for at least 24 hours before removing the tape.
Some folk use acetone, but this takes some practice to get it right.
Pro tip: When you finish, you may see a few gaps. Don't panic!
All you need to do is melt some binding in acetone and use it as a filler.
Let it dry for at least 12 hours and then scrape the binding flush.
stewmac.com has plenty of options, binding wise - with the usual $ conversion & postage waiting times - may be some options you can live with.
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and...ding_and_Trim/