Toshi's first build: PBA-4

Hi all,

The kit came exactly on Christmas eve! Unpacking and checking the items with excitement, seems all is well, expecting a lot to look forward to building up my first own P-bass. Here is my diary. Your advices and information will be appreciated very much.

Day1. Started with mock build and looks fine. It is beautiful Ash grain!

Attachment 16026


Attachment 16027


Day2. I made a hole on the neck to bolt on body. I purchased e-drill/driver from hardware shop and found its very useful.

Attachment 16028

now done the hole. :)
Attachment 16029

Ooops, at the very first step, I think made a big mistake… there is quite a space between neck and body. hope this won't cause problem with sound....

Attachment 16030

Nice looking PB, what's the weight of it like? For the neck try slackening off the screws, push down into the pocket whilst tighten the screws back up

Sent from Android Nougat

Thank you for the advice, Andrew. that may work. will definitely try. :)

Hi Toshi. Welcome to the forum.

Nice looking Ash body. Presume pick guard will cover that slight gap where body meets the neck as they are usually quite tight around those parts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

Nice looking PB, what's the weight of it like? For the neck try slackening off the screws, push down into the pocket whilst tighten the screws back up

Sent from Android Nougat

---

Hi Andrew, it worked. i widened the hole on body a bit first to make some buffer and tried as you advised. there is still gap, but it looks much much better and quite satisfying. thanks again for advice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Toshi. Welcome to the forum.

Nice looking Ash body. Presume pick guard will cover that slight gap where body meets the neck as they are usually quite tight around those parts.

---

pic
Hi Wazkelly, thank you for advice. i tried attach the pick guard and found cover hide the gap well!

Day 3, Bridge hole making and final mock build

after bolt neck on body, measure 17 inches from 12 fret to bridge saddle on 1st and 4th strings.

Attachment 16092

Attachment 16093

just in case, also check length from nut to saddle.

Attachment 16094


here is final mock built with neck, bridge and pick guard.

Attachment 16095

Hi All,

I need advice for grain filler. here in Singapore, difficult to find grain filler, however finally found solvent-based grain filler with natural color. i am thinking dyeing wood by water based stain and finish with clear lacquer afterward. according to shop owner, solvent based grain filler might cause some issue on wood dyeing. should i find water based grain filler instead?

Please advise me in this regards. Thank you!

yup, always best to stick with the same based products, although SOME oil or spirit based products will go over water based it's pretty rare for it to work the other way round

Beautiful grain on that kit Toshi! Personally I would do a little more searching for water-based filler if you can.

There are a few links to Timbermate in Singapore on the web, but not sure how old they are. This one looks promising:

http://hmtindustries-sg.business1.com/

cheers,
Gav.

Thank you for your advice, Dedman. well noted. will try to find water based or oil based stain otherwise.

Gavin, thank you for the link and advice! will contact them. hope they will help.

I used a naptha-based grain filler on my ES-3, and it did take the water-based stain I used. But I did try it out on some scrap wood first. But not all grain fillers are the same, so I do strongly suggest testing whatever filler you decide to use on another piece of wood first and then staining that to see if it takes. If you can get hold of some Timbermate, then I'd use that in preference to anything else.

Thank you for help and advice, Simon! Yes, I absolutely test whether it works or not before applying it on the bass to avoid messing it up. :)

Day 4&5,

Start Sanding body out by #120 sanding paper with wood block and hard sponge.
Attachment 16139

after sanding on front,side, cutaway, back, neck pocket and cavity.
Attachment 16140

Attachment 16141

came to know it really required a patience and time. got muscle pain after this... but it is really fun!! :) will continue down to #240, #400 before start filling grain work.

Nice work Toshi, that Ash grain on the body is cool:cool:

Thank you, Andy! Yeah, I love this beautiful grain and am wishing not spoil it out at the end. cross my fingers... :)

Hi Toshi, suggest stopping at 240 grit and then applying the grain filler as if you go too much further the grain will close up and not take in as much of the filler. Very important if you are using a contrasting colour to pop the grain. Here is a shot of my Ash J Bass to illustrate what I mean.
Attachment 16145

Thanks, Wazkelly!! i was not aware of it and totally agree with you. I would have gone farther... Yup, I am happy to stop at 240 grit.

By the way, that Beautiful red JB is exactly what I am aiming to. Color would be green or blue though, i would like to have that strong contrast on grain. did you apply a grain filler mixed with black stain or something to make the line pop up vividly? actually i was thinking to post this question soon.

Hi Toshi, I used ebony timber mate.

Attachment 16157Attachment 16158
Now after sanded back....
Attachment 16159Attachment 16160
Then 1st stain of 2 stain coats...
Attachment 16161

This method should work with any colour so long as it is not too dark a shade otherwise it blends too much and you lose the contrasting effect.

Toshi, also please note that there are different standards of grading sandpaper. The European FEPA/EURO standard sandpapers always have a P in front of the grit value e.g. P400. The American ANSI/CAMI standard papers don't. The two different standards differ somewhat once the grit number goes above 220, with the CAMI standard grits being finer than the FEPA equivalent grit numbers. Note also that Micromesh products have a very different grit grading system to either of the above systems.

Here's a link to a comparison chart. https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/a...ion-chart.html

Australia seems to use EURO/FEPA graded sandpapers, as do we here in the UK, but I don't know what the typical sandpaper available in Singapore is. I'm sure there are some areas of the world where both are available.

But on this forum, most people will be referring to EURO/FEPA graded sandpapers, with a P in front of the grit number, so when someone says 'sand to 400 grit', unless they obviously live in North America, assume they are talking about P400 grit - equivalent to ANSI/CAMI 320 grit.

So just check on the back of the sandpaper you're using, and whether the grit number has a 'P' in front of it. Whilst there is only a very slight difference at the 240 grit level, as the grit numbers go higher, the difference becomes greater e.g. an ANSI/CAMI 400 grit is significantly finer than a EURO/FEPA P600 grit paper.

>>Waz,
Thank you for the advice and photos! it is very helpful. I just found Timbermate in Singapore! :D but colour is natural, so i am thinking mixing with black colour dye. This photos help show me how it would be like after applying filler and after sanding it out so well, that this make me sure how i should work on it!

>>Simon,
Thank you for the information and conversion chart! Oh, I really didn't know there are several standards on sanding paper... very useful info. I have bought them just by checking only numbers. When I go home today, I will definitely check the back of the sheet!

Hi Toshi, I have used a couple of shades of timber mate, ebony & natural, and it sometimes comes out of the container in a gooey, sticky sort of way where you just add small amounts of water to help thin it down into a paste like slurry to then apply to the body with a spatula. One of those silicon kitchen ones used for cake decorating would be good to use. An old credit card is what I used and that did the trick too.

Suggest you dig some timber mate out into a plastic container (takeaway fried rice containers are a good size) add the black ink or dye to it first and mix that in as the ink or dye may be watery enough to create the slurry. If not, maybe just adding small amounts of water at a time between mixing until you get the right consistency.

It will smell like plastic whilst wet and still stinks next day once it has dried out.

WARNING: When sanding off the timber mate you need to wear a dust mask as you don't want to get any of the fine particles in your eyes, nose or mouth and either vacuum or sweep up the mess as soon as possible otherwise you will always have wind blown particles swirling all around. On mine I did all the sanding outside near a garden and just swept the mess into the garden bed as once wet it dissolves away.

>>Hi Waz, thanks again for your advice. Well noted with all instructions. I almost done with body sanding. so now I started a practice for Timbermate with a small wooden board as photo as below. It was so much dust :eek: as you said. i will soon to buy disposal globes, mask and goggle, before proceeding to filling grain.

>>Hi Simon, just for update. I have checked a back of sanding paper and found there was no P before numbers, so i assume they are ANSI or CAMI USA standard! they are made in japan or china.:)

Attachment 16204

Hi Toshi. In that case use the conversion chart to pick a grade closest to the ones generally talked about here. Up to 220 grit they are the same, but above that you need to compensate for the difference, otherwise it's easy to over-polish the wood, especially when staining.

Hi Toshi, the timbermate dust in that photo looks similar to black talcum powder as that is how fine it can get. Extremely messy but the effect is worth the small amount of inconvenience.

Cheers, Waz

>>Hi Simon, thank you for advice. Noted, as moving forward, grit will be higher, so I will be careful for this conversion. :)

>>Hi Waz, thank you for advice too. yeah, sanding out filler was really messy. as you did i may have to carry it out outside. since i stay at a rent-apartment without garden, i am thinking going out to park or just back yard to sand out. :cool:


By the way, before i start applying filler, if can get any advice from all, it would be appreciated.
I sanded out body with #240 several times and now thinking going to fill out grain, but found some scratch and glue spot at bottom of body as below. would i be better to remove those spots completely or can go for filler process?

Attachment 16292

Attachment 16293

Attachment 16294

thank you in advance!

Hi Toshi, sanding process coming along well. I'd try and sand out the machine marks on the bottom edge before the grain filling. It's a bit difficult but try and sand along the grain. I usually sand each piece of the ash (to the edge of each glued piece of the body) one at a time so you concentrate sanding with the grain. Be best to probably go back to 120 or 180 grit for these areas, then over again with 240 grit then you should be ok to grain fill.

Hi Toshi, Woks has provided you with some good advice.

Photo 1 - that horizontal scratch will only come out after sanding at 90 degrees to the scratch and thus following the grain pattern, and coarser grit will be required. Once the scratch is gone you can the switch back to sanding across the end grain, but only after all obvious machine marks and scratches are completely gone.

Photo 2 - looks like some filler in a low lying part of the edge where those planks have been joined. I would sand in a diagonal direction from bottom right hand side of that shot, again following the grain pattern.

Photo 3 - this has two different grain patterns converging around what looks like a small amount of glue or filler. Same sanding process as above 2 points.

The end grains will most likely come up highly polished after sanding and not take much timber mate which is not such a bad thing as that grain will still be visible through a translucent finish. Where timber mate does most of it's magic is on the front & back and be careful not to over sand and end up polishing those faces too much.

>>Hi Wokkaboy and Waz,
Thank you so much for advice and specific instructions. Well noted with those. I will continue sanding out those spots and mark carefully to remove them. as i see grain getting better look, it is really a joy of building.

Ash is such a nice bit of timber to work with and the grain definition is awesome.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nekogen

>>Hi Wokkaboy and Waz,
Thank you so much for advice and specific instructions. Well noted with those. I will continue sanding out those spots and mark carefully to remove them. as i see grain getting better look, it is really a joy of building.

---

Most definitely. The transition from the raw body to a sanded one is hard work but immensely satisfying work. Seeing the grain definition start to come through reveals the true character of your work piece. Sometimes you find beauty, other times a beast. all part of the fun.

>>Hi Waz, yes, exactly true. When I chose the kit from Pit bull g shop, Adam gave me the advice to select Ash if I would like to go for stain transparent finish. It was right advice and I fully understand why now. :)

>>Hi Frank, yep agree! since i am doing at my small room, even only sanding work will be a cause of mess of house, of muscle pain and of the anger of my wife. Yet, seeing transition of grain will be worth of all! ;)

Toshi, it's well worth all the sanding effort. You'll be rewarded with a beautiful finish especially with the ash

Sent from Android Nougat

Hi Andrew, thank you for encouragement. yea, this building guitar experience is really one of kind :)

While I continue sanding body marks and spots, parallel working on head stock shaping.

I took reference from the one from Milancon guitar and drew the shape on the front and back of head.

Attachment 16346

have only hand-saw, slowly and carefully cut it out, taking buffer from the line. but very weirdly done...

Attachment 16347

bit difficult to cut small and thin part, have decided to go for using file to shaping head.

Attachment 16348

Attachment 16349

After long and hard work, finally it became look like guitar head stock...still did not reach to my expectation though. :)

Attachment 16350

original headstock shape Toshi looks pretty cool. I'd probably do a bit more sanding to get the curves flowing and try and eliminate any rounded edges that aren't round, if you understand what I mean. Sorry buddy but you will be a sanding expert after this build hhaa
Another thing you can do is place the headstock over the body shape and I try and emulate some of the curves of the body and horn shapes.
You have done a good job with limited tools and I assume in a small apartment where you can't create too much dust without upsetting the wife !

Hi Wok, Thank you for your advice as always! Thats the direction i needed. hahaha hope to be good sanding expert. :) yup, I would place the headstock over the body shape and amend little by little to make it as nicer as possible. wish my wife patience last longer.

I believe we ALL wish for wife's patience to last longer!

If you can get a hold of a small spokeshave:Attachment 16351

a cabinet scraper: Attachment 16352

or just a Stanley knife blade and some good gloves: Attachment 16353

then you may be able to use them adjust the curves slightly to get it exactly where you want it.

I've done a lot of headstock shaping work with scrapers and they can be handier and less work than files, as with files you've then got to smooth out the file marks. Don't know if this helps but I thought I would suggest it as an option for you.

hopefully Toshi your wife will appreciate the finished product and when you belt out some nice bass tunes when it's finished hahah