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Just wondering, with the Dingotone range or another brand...is there such thing as a transparent colors to coat the wood grain so you can still see the wood grain but in a variety of colors ? Sorry if this is a stupid question, i am sure there is but would like to know more so i can have a variety of different finishes for these bass kits.
Yes mate, all of the Dingotone is see-through. That's the main difference between stain and paint. You can still see the grain through the colour.
Awesome, thank you Zandit. If i mix the bondi blue and uluru red, it should turn purple, yeah ?
Theoretically yes, but I do believe Dingobass was working on a new purple colour.
Perhaps you should ask him about it, he is the creator of Dingotone after all!
Sure is; I have blue, green, red and black Feast & Watson stain; the more coats you apply, the deeper the colour.
This was done using the green...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...3/IMG_0532.jpg
Thank you Zandit and Corsair, I just picked up Japan Black and Oak from Bunnings. Where do i purchase Red, Blue and Green from please ? I only found them on Ebay via Adam's store.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/dingotone/
That would be the best place to start. Keep in mind, Dingobass has been working on some brighter and more vibrant colours, so if you don't see the colour you are interested in there, drop DB an email for more information.
Part way through the process. Sanded body, put on stain coat. It didn't really come up with the colour I expected after watching the videos. The back was pink! Hung body in well ventilated space for 5 days. Noticed that the surface was really rough again so sanded with 400 grit to bring it back to smooth. Applied the intensifying coat. Back and sides don't look to bad but front is awful. Colour slightly better but back still pink! Lots of raised rough lines. What do I do now? I will leave it for a week and intend sanding again. Is this the right thing to do? Then do I do another intensifying coat? Or do I go to the Final Coat.
So far really disappointed in the finish. Has anyone had similar problems? Can I cut and run? Can I now finish the guitar in a paint finish instead. If so how do I do it?
The guitar I am really happy with. Dingotone, I am not sure about. Help.
Hi Sam tell us more info please, what kit have you stained (need to know the timber type) and what Dingotone colour have you applied ? you usually need to steel wool or wet sand between each coat. If the timber is ash it is often very hard to get the stain colour how you want it to be being a darker almost green colour grain
I bought mine from a paint shop in Hervey Bay that was going out of the coloured stains; you could find the agent for Feast and Watson in Australia and go from there??Quote:
Originally Posted by METAL Rulez 4ever
Thank you Zandit, i will check there. Much appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
Hi Naim, Having experimented with mixing different Dingo Tone (DT) colours it can be done as evidenced by the light orange colour of my EX-5.
Downsides - at around $25 to $30 per kit it can get a bit expensive and you won't end up using all the stuff as 1 stain kit is more than enough for 1 guitar build. If mixing more than 2 colours the cost factor starts to climb. Not sure where you live and how patient you are as DT does not like to be rushed nor does it work out too good in humid conditions. Theoretically it should take around 3 or 4 months to properly finish a guitar with DT, possibly longer if local climate conditions are not favourable. If you are after a quick, fast result, best to consider something else.
Upsides - environmentally friendly, safe to use indoors or in poorly ventilated areas, has some great colours, supporting an Aussie business, can look stunning once finished properly.
As Woks mentioned a few posts back some timbers will throw a bit of their colour tone into the mix too so what you see on a colour chart and even in the stain container may not be the end result. Also strongly discourage using 0000 steel wool between coats as that stuff tends to break down into very fine particles and even though you think you have got rid of it all invariably some seems to turn up in the last coat just put down. If you must use steel wool suggest you buy a strong magnet to pass over the body after sanding with the stuff to trap and pick up all the loose particles. Clearly I am a fan of wet sanding with a finer grit paper between coats as that does less damage and easier to control.
Hope some of this helps and makes sense too.
Wokkaboy
It is an FS1. The stain is Uluru.
The semi-hollow body is made of basswood, with a sensational figure on top, binding front (triple) and back (white) and binding on the two f-holes (white).
Everything still really tacky to touch.
Hi Waz, yes, very helpful. Thank you so much. I found some Feast and Watson stain, Japan Black and Greenish Oak, so i bought it and will try it. I will also purchase the DingoTone colors also.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Not sure IF DT will mix with other stuff as they all have their own unique properties. Best to keep it all in the family so to speak, meaning stick to the same brand or manufacturer to avoid things ending up in tears.
There are always a few exceptions and usually Tru Oil will go down as a top coat over most things if they have been given enough time to dry and cure properly. DT does not like going over the top of anything else other than timber mate used as a grain filler.