ST-1 By nitroburner1000

Well i have just received my kit and on inspection i am very impressed, a straight neck that fits snugly into the body, great finish to the body, and nice hardware.

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i will be using a twin humbucker setup and am trying to clone the big apple strat setup with my wiring.

Attachment 12049

The only difference is that i have 2 push pulls on the tone pots to switch from series to parrallel on separate pickups.
The pickups are the HOT RODDED HUMBUCKER SET the JB and Jazz Models, SH-4/SH-2 SET.

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Mmmm Tasty SD goodness, what are the plans for body and neck finish? Will it be a traditional Strat headstock or are you going customised?

Hey Mitch the SD pups look great on the white pearloid pickguard

@ Franken he outlines his build plans in his welcome thread

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hey Mitch the SD pups look great on the white pearloid pickguard

@ Franken he outlines his build plans in his welcome thread

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AH! I had not seen this (Captain Obvious moment) Cheers Wokka I'll take a look.
You're right about the SD's in the white pick guard. Makes me want to build a strat...maybe set up for slide playing....hmmm...

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Mmmm Tasty SD goodness, what are the plans for body and neck finish? Will it be a traditional Strat headstock or are you going customised?

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Yea mate, just like wokkaboy said, some of the decription is in my welcome but i will post it here....

"I will customise the guitar......Chose the grover tuners but no pickups. I have got a twin matching set of Seymour Duncan Jazz humbuckers to fit into a white pearloid pickguard.
I will paint the body with a deep pearl electric blue, with black hardware. Think it will look ok as a solid colour as there is not much grain in the basswood body. I will light stain and clearcoat the neck, the headstock will be reshaped and painted blue to match the body.
thanks...

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hey Mitch the SD pups look great on the white pearloid pickguard

@ Franken he outlines his build plans in his welcome thread

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Cheers mate, i love white,blue and black, they go great together...

ok, ive got some samples of the final colour, although it probably will be darker

Attachment 12059

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a larger picture

very nice looking blue sample Nitro, should look very speccy with the white pearloid guard

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

very nice looking blue sample Nitro, should look very speccy with the white pearloid guard

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Hope so, if i get a bit adventurous and everything is going ok i want to pinstripe the blue body in white, then clear it to seal it. Hoping to apply 20 or so coats of clear...we"ll see how much patience i have...lol..

20 coats of clear, assume nitro ? that will look like glass !

Heres a selection of headstock logos that ive chosen, but dont know what one to use yet...

Attachment 12061Attachment 12062Attachment 12063Attachment 12064Attachment 12065

Heres a selection of headstock logos that ive chosen, but dont know what one to use yet...Attachment 12066Attachment 12067Attachment 12068Attachment 12069Attachment 12070

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

very nice looking blue sample Nitro, should look very speccy with the white pearloid guard

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Fingers crossed hey....

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

20 coats of clear, assume nitro ? that will look like glass !

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Lets say, 1 primer, 2 or 3 coats of spray body filler, 2 coats of base coat, 3 or 4 of blue pearl, and 10 -15 top coats of clear. As i said im in no hurry to finish it as i have a mim fender Strat Hss to practice on...
Will write down the final amount of coats and what type of paints i use.

Nice plans Nitro! I love my lake placid blue ST-1, still play it everyday :) You'll have to give us an ear taste of those SD's!

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Originally Posted by Andy40

Nice plans Nitro! I love my lake placid blue ST-1, still play it everyday :) You'll have to give us an ear taste of those SD's!

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Will do, just love blue, fav colour

Hey guys check out one of my Bro in laws guitars.

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...258#post110258

hope i can post a link this way.....

Been messing around with some stain colour combos for when i buy my second guitar. Thought some of you might like to see some colour variations.
Im using feast watson universal 'proof tint", it can be thinned with water or turps. These are stains you can cheaply buy at any Aussie paint Place.

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these were applied in multiple applications without waiting for it to dry between coats. Allow at least overnight to dry before using a sealer or clear.
Colours are written beside the sample.

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nice sample stain tests Nitro, I never knew FW proof tint came in blue, green and rosewood ? I've used all the other colours you have used.

well ive got my wiring diagram, whew, been looking for ages, had to change from a superswitch to a 3 way blade. The push pulls will do all the variations i need. Good old Seymour Duncan!

Attachment 12124

Now just waiting for the 3 way blade and a volume push pull to add to my tone push pulls.
I will then have.... coil split, series/parallel and reverse phase options...With the push pulls.

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

nice sample stain tests Nitro, I never knew FW proof tint came in blue, green and rosewood ? I've used all the other colours you have used.

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Yea, and ive got some spare if someone wants some, about 5 of blue, red, green and gold teak, would just have to arrange cod or if someone sends me a prepaid parcel. heres the ones i have left over....hey i was given then for free...perks of the trade... Pic below

Attachment 12125

wow pretty involved wiring diagram Nitro, you must have some wiring experience to get that working

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

wow pretty involved wiring diagram Nitro, you must have some wiring experience to get that working

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Yes, been doing electronics for years, mostly audio stuff, so being a bit game i suppose, but what the hell...lol

good score on all the free FW stains, the ones with different labels maybe older stock or from another country

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

good score on all the free FW stains, the ones with different labels maybe older stock or from another country

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Yea probably old stock, but still work fine. The timber i used is some Tazzie oak left over from a new floor at work...

thought the sample boards looked like floor boards. They are a nice timber colour tazzy oak and good for the samples

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

thought the sample boards looked like floor boards. They are a nice timber colour tazzy oak and good for the samples

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Yes, especially when they are free.....haha

I could be wrong, but in that wiring diagram it looks like the bridge tone phase push/pull is missing a ground connection on the bottom left to top right diagonal link. Without it the bridge negative (in/out phase) will never be connected to ground.

Also, the hot connections to the tone pots should be on the right side lugs instead of the left ones, as the way the diagram has it the tones will be at max on 10 instead of 0. There is also another way you can wire the neck tone series/parallel push/pull so that it bypasses the 3-way setting and instantly gives you bridge and neck in series from any position, if that's an option you'd prefer.

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

I could be wrong, but in that wiring diagram it looks like the bridge tone phase push/pull is missing a ground connection on the bottom left to top right diagonal link. Without it the bridge negative (in/out phase) will never be connected to ground.

Also, the hot connections to the tone pots should be on the right side lugs instead of the left ones, as the way the diagram has it the tones will be at max on 10 instead of 0. There is also another way you can wire the neck tone series/parallel push/pull so that it bypasses the 3-way setting and instantly gives you bridge and neck in series from any position, if that's an option you'd prefer.

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Actually i was wondering about that, i was checking other pics to verify... this one has the ground wire..

Attachment 12130

that bypass option sounds good. Do you have a diagram?

I don't have a layout drawn up that matches your particular configuration, but the way the tone push/pull is wired in the diagram below is how you do it. Basically, you can be in any position on the 3-way and immediately switch to both pups in series (it essentially bypasses the lever switch), and switch back just with the push/pull. This is from a Premier Guitar article (with a nice diagram):
http://www.premierguitar.com/ext/res...e_fig2_WEB.jpg

If you wire your coil split like the SD diagram, your bridge phase swap like your last sub-diagram and then wire the bridge and neck pups' connections to the 3-way and series/parallel push/pull like above, then it should all work.

If you're not sure let me know and I'll rough out a complete diagram for you.

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

I don't have a layout drawn up that matches your particular configuration, but the way the tone push/pull is wired in the diagram below is how you do it. Basically, you can be in any position on the 3-way and immediately switch to both pups in series (it essentially bypasses the lever switch), and switch back just with the push/pull. This is from a Premier Guitar article (with a nice diagram):
http://www.premierguitar.com/ext/res...e_fig2_WEB.jpg

If you wire your coil split like the SD diagram, your bridge phase swap like your last sub-diagram and then wire the bridge and neck pups' connections to the 3-way and series/parallel push/pull like above, then it should all work.

If you're not sure let me know and I'll rough out a complete diagram for you.

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But if i bypass the switch wont that defeat the purpose of having the bridge in series, both pups in series and then the neck in series on its own?

The 'bypass' style series push/pull connects the two pickups together in series, that is bridge -> neck -> out, whenever the push/pull is 'up' regardless of the 3-way's position. When 'down' you get the standard bridge, bridge + neck (parallel), neck on the 3-way.

If you're talking about wanting to switch each pickup's coils between series (the standard humbucker setting) and parallel then that is something else entirely, and a different configuration to the one you originally posted.

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

The 'bypass' style series push/pull connects the two pickups together in series, that is bridge -> neck -> out, whenever the push/pull is 'up' regardless of the 3-way's position. When 'down' you get the standard bridge, bridge + neck (parallel), neck on the 3-way.

If you're talking about wanting to switch each pickup's coils between series (the standard humbucker setting) and parallel then that is something else entirely, and a different configuration to the one you originally posted.

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Ok, am really appreciating your help, i usually just copy the schematics and rely on the person who drew them. So to reiterate,
1)on the Seymour Duncan scheme i posted, the tone series /parallel pot doesnt switch the neck and bridge humbuckers from series to parallel separately, just both together?
2) or does the master blade 3 way switch have an effect on the series/parallel push pull when it is engaged in parallel mode? (up)
3)So the advantage of bypassing the switch would be power going directly from the humbuckers straight to the jack output, a clean more raw sound?

Sorry to be a pain but this is my first wiring job on a guitar. This is a huge learning curve for me...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

I could be wrong, but in that wiring diagram it looks like the bridge tone phase push/pull is missing a ground connection on the bottom left to top right diagonal link. Without it the bridge negative (in/out phase) will never be connected to ground.

Also, the hot connections to the tone pots should be on the right side lugs instead of the left ones, as the way the diagram has it the tones will be at max on 10 instead of 0. There is also another way you can wire the neck tone series/parallel push/pull so that it bypasses the 3-way setting and instantly gives you bridge and neck in series from any position, if that's an option you'd prefer.

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Hi, ive been doing some research on the whole volume lug connections and have found something. can i have your advice. this is an excerpt from a wiring mag.....

Attachment 12139

We’ll only need one of the switch circuits here (so a SPDT switch would suffice, but they don’t make SPDT push/pulls as far as I know). Wire the pickup signal to switch lug C, and then wire switch lug B up to the center of the volume pot (lug Y). The other two volume pot lugs are the usual arrangement- one side (lug Z) to ground, and the other side (lug X) over to the tone pot or output jack.

NOTE: connecting the pickup signal to the center lug gives you independent volume wiring which is useful for 3-pickup guitars with a 3-way selector, or for 2-pickup guitars where you want to avoid interaction between the 2 volume controls. The downside is significant treble-loss when turning down the volume pot. You can instead wire the pickup signal B to the side lug X, and the output to the center lug Y. This will give you non-independent volume controls, which will eliminate treble loss when turning down- perfect for guitars with a single master volume and typical on 2-pickup Les Paul style guitars. Note that on a two-pickup guitars with a 3-way selector in the middle position- turning down one volume all the way will also kill the other (hence the term non-independent).

So according to this guy input for a one volume pot is lug x and output is lug y, z goes to ground.

Ok, we need to get a common frame of reference...

There are two different ways that series/parallel are used:
1. The way humbucker coils are connected within a pickup, series (standard) or parallel.
2. The way two or more pickups are combined together, parallel (standard) or series.

The SD diagram you originally posted is for the latter, combining the bridge and neck pickups together in series (linking them in series when the tone series push/pull is 'up' and in parallel when 'down'). The 'bypass' style series push/pull option I suggested is also in that format, combining the two pickups in series.

If you want the first option, that is switching each humbucker's coils from series to parallel, then you need one push/pull for each pickup as it requires both poles of a DPDT push/pull to switch each pickup. If that's what you actually want to do then we need a very different diagram.

Regarding linked (non-independent) vs independent volumes, yes output on the middle lug for linked volume (LP style) and ouput on outer lug for independent volumes (jazz bass style). However, the pot shown in your diagram is wired backwards for a right-handed A or B taper, as turning it clockwise to max would actually give you min volume instead of max (the ground and out should be swapped). If, on the other hand, it's a left-handed reverse taper C pot, then yes it's correct for counter-clockwise max volume. If the above was being used as a 'blend' pot to add a 3rd pup to a two pickup setup, then that's something else again.

You're just using a single master volume pot so (with the x, y, z from above) you have ground on x, out on y, and pickup/switch/in on z.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

Ok, we need to get a common frame of reference...

There are two different ways that series/parallel are used:
1. The way humbucker coils are connected within a pickup, series (standard) or parallel.
2. The way two or more pickups are combined together, parallel (standard) or series.

The SD diagram you originally posted is for the latter, combining the bridge and neck pickups together in series (linking them in series when the tone series push/pull is 'up' and in parallel when 'down'). The 'bypass' style series push/pull option I suggested is also in that format, combining the two pickups in series.

If you want the first option, that is switching each humbucker's coils from series to parallel, then you need one push/pull for each pickup as it requires both poles of a DPDT push/pull to switch each pickup. If that's what you actually want to do then we need a very different diagram.

Regarding linked (non-independent) vs independent volumes, yes output on the middle lug for linked volume (LP style) and ouput on outer lug for independent volumes (jazz bass style). However, the pot shown in your diagram is wired backwards for a right-handed A or B taper, as turning it clockwise to max would actually give you min volume instead of max (the ground and out should be swapped). If, on the other hand, it's a left-handed reverse taper C pot, then yes it's correct for counter-clockwise max volume. If the above was being used as a 'blend' pot to add a 3rd pup to a two pickup setup, then that's something else again.

You're just using a single master volume pot so (with the x, y, z from above) you have ground on x, out on y, and pickup/switch/in on z.

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Wow, you make a lot of sense. Ok, i will just use the seymour duncan diagram, add a ground to the series/parallel pot and reverse the hot. Thanks heaps for your help and knowledge, your a life saver...

Ok back to making this guitar.
been designing the headstock shape and from about 5 designs i made up ive picked one that i think will go with the fender strat pickguard shape. I want to make everything match.

i wanted to buy a drum sander but couldnt find one in town, tried to make a small one but it was not steady enough, so i used a coping saw to roughly cut out the headstock shape, then i bought some files and a small drill attachment and used lots of sandpaper.

TOOLS I USED
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FINISHED PRODUCT

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Just finished putting on the primer coats. I used a primer, sealer undercoat, this stuff is soo strong it sticks to glass, its also an awesome grain filler.
It dries in about 10 mins, enough to build up 2 or 3 coats. Will leave it for a few days to make sure it dries, then sand and 2 more coats. This sealer sands up really smooth and dries dead flat. You can put oil or acrilic paint over the top.

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looking good Nitro love the headstock shape is pretty original

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

looking good Nitro love the headstock shape is pretty original

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Thanks Wokkaboy, the comments you guys leave really mean a lot to me.