Sanding sealer compatibility with primer

I've sanded my guitar body and neck and applied two coats of sanding sealer (shown below)
Attachment 12012
I went to get some primer today at a local paint supplier and the guy says to me "What type of sealer is it?", to which I replied, ...er...don't know
Now not sure if the auto paint I'm going to use (and still not sure which is best) is going to react with the sealer.

I asked the guy what would not be good and he said enamel. I'm sure it's not enamel, but still unsure if I'm going to have problems or not.
I've checked the MDS and it doesn't really help.

As usual, any advice would be appreciated.

It could be the water based vs oil based question being asked by the guy in the shop?

I know I talked to DB at one time about feast Watson when I used it under some clear gloss acrylic, it had very strong pink hue too, it crazed really badly I had to sand it off and start over. In the end I used Ubeauts sanding sealer which worked great can't say if it will be ok. I'd paint some on some wood then spray over the top see how it goes.

The ubeaut stuff is shellac based.

Thanks guys. As you say this is going to come down to trial and error as there is so much conflicting information out there.

This is my intention
1. Acrylic prime (dependant on the trial and error results with the sanding sealer)
2. Black acrylic base coat
3. Thin layer of low flec silver base coat over the black.
4 Marble effect silver base coat while wet with cling wrap
5. Cobalt blue candy over the silver/black marble effect (provided I can find a candy dye/pigment that mixes with acrylic clear coat)
6. Acrylic clear coat
7. Lots of wet and dry sanding and polishing.....job done

Anyway, that's the plan.

I've used Timbermate under auto acrylics with no drama

Thanks Dedman, Timbermate looks like a filler though. I assume you dilute it to use as a sanding sealer?

yup, I made a slurry mixing it with water.

Hi Marelton , Timbermate is used on certain woods that need their grains filling, this helps when you come to paint or spray the guitar it gives you a flatter finish of clear coat or paint. Again it depends on what wood you have. DB says he prefers natural timbermate as you can dye it to suit yourself as necessary.This might help https://youtu.be/Z9s_inRmcMo

Got it.

Picked some up this arvo from the big green place, the name of which I can't mention! :)

Do you think it will be ok to go straight over the sealer already on there? It's sanded back pretty well.

It's waterbased so should be fine the great thing is is there's a problem it can be wiped off

Marelton, you have visited the Green Shed, it's the naughty room for you, get wokka to pour you a drink....

Attachment 12052

First coat of acrylic primer on over the Timbermate and all looks good.

Thanks for the tip Kimball

Primer coat looks good Marelton. What is the final colour you got planned?

1. Acrylic prime
2. Black acrylic base coat
3. Thin layer of low flec silver base coat over the black.
4 Marble effect silver base coat while wet with cling wrap
5. Cobalt blue candy over the silver/black marble effect (provided I can find a candy dye/pigment that mixes with acrylic clear coat)
6. Acrylic clear coat
7. Lots of wet and dry sanding and polishing.....job done

sounds like a plan, you need heaps of curing time for acrylic, the reason most of my projects are sitting half done is because of it

Thanks Stan I'll bear that in mind

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Originally Posted by stan

sounds like a plan, you need heaps of curing time for acrylic, the reason most of my projects are sitting half done is because of it

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And folk complain about Dingotone being slow to cure :D

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Originally Posted by Marelton

1. Acrylic prime
2. Black acrylic base coat
3. Thin layer of low flec silver base coat over the black.
4 Marble effect silver base coat while wet with cling wrap
5. Cobalt blue candy over the silver/black marble effect (provided I can find a candy dye/pigment that mixes with acrylic clear coat)
6. Acrylic clear coat
7. Lots of wet and dry sanding and polishing.....job done

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Hi, ive just joined the forum but have many years experience in the painting and finishing trade.
We usually use sanding sealer under satin or gloss clear varnish, the reason being that it powder sands up beautifully, where as putting straight varnish on raises the grain too much and is very hard to sand. if you cant get sanding sealer, dilute turps based satin varnish 50/50 with turps, it will soak in better and be easier to sand.
We only use sanding sealer when we are using an oil based system. Oil over oil based.
When we use acrilic we use an acrilic based primer then apply top coats of acrylic.

These days because of advances in paints you can mix them keeping in mind some simple basic rules.

1)Metho and thinners based paints dry fast and make excellent primers due to their drying ultra flat.

2)Oil based sealers and primers take longer to dry, usually from 6-12hrs depending on room temp, but can dry slightly shiny or with a slighly oily finish. these need to be sanded thoroughly to remove the residue.

3) Acrilic primers are great but take ages to dry, up to 4 weeks to cure properly, depending on room temp. If you dont let them dry properly when you apply the top coat the primer will siss up or craze. if this happens immediately remove with copious amounts of methylated spirits. let dry then resand.

4) When mixing paint bases i.e. sealers and primers, only apply thin mist coats to build up letting it dry thoroughly between coats, unless using metho or thinners based paints, these can be applied at about2-5 minute intervals but test on an area beforehand to insure adhesion. Ive use oil based primers and top coats and had reactions so it pays to be sure.

5) 20 thin coats are better that 5 heavy coats.

Hope this helps and i havnt been too boring.....

No it's it's a great insight Nitoburner Thankyou.

Thanks for the info Nitroburner. Very informative. The point about the cure time of the primer is very useful as it was a question I would have asked for some advice on.

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Originally Posted by kimball492

No it's it's a great in sight Nitoburner Thankyou.

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Your more than welcome kimball

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marelton

Thanks for the info Nitroburner. Very informative. The point about the cure time of the primer is very useful as it was a question I would have asked for some advice on.

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Anytime Marelton, i feel such a newbie first time building a guitar and always asking advice, so if theres an area i can offer my help ill jump at it.