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So I finally picked up this kit today. Very excited
Some piccies of the fresh out of the box product..
The neck, clean job. Plastic nut to go...
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Nice and straight
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Headstock
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Neck join, nice and tight. I can lift the body! Needs a small sliver of veneer down one of the sides
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Body and binding looking good. I'm not looking forward to the sanding...
It came with an Ernie Ball pick! Well happy as I've lost my 3rd pick this week
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Geez that looks nice straight out of the box and reckon a colourless natural finish would look good on all that grain you have there.
Upgrades - I need to tweak the length of a 50's style Gibbo P90 harness to fit (earth between pots) . I also will be plugging the machine head holes and redrilling for Kluson tuners. All topped off with a headstock veneer carrying some sort of mop inlay.
Trapeze and bridge to be upgraded (Gibbo chrome style trap and goto floating chrome bridge)
Finish... Nitro as per this tutorial
https://youtu.be/IRqp2E3FT7o
The pickup.. Tbc...
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Yes it has come out of the box looking very promising. One other finish option was to be a light mahogany stain sides back and neck then natural on top... I'll sleep on it...Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
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Cool vid on the sunburst effect.....never had the courage to attempt one but that bloke makes it look quite easy.
I would go with an all over naked look if this was mine.
Nice guitar Andrew want one of these kits. The sunburst your doing is a classic and will suit that instrument beautifully.Look forward to seeing what you do. Congrats and will watch how you bring it to life.
Looks great Andrew! I'm keen for one of these kits too, so I'm gonna follow your build very closely and see how you go. Gonna be another pearler I'm sure!
cheers,
Gav.
nice looking kit Ponch, so are the headstock shapes pre-cut ? Some nice upgrades you have planned. Your stain colour choice will change each day till you start ragging it on. I think just about any colour combo will look sweet
Yep all pre-cut Woks. You're right about how stain plans. Waz's idea of natural look is now in my head. I also like black idea....
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Nah, don't do it black otherwise we will have to change your name to Zorro.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
A long time between posts on this one.. the body has been sanded to 320 and I have decided to go shellac. 3x sealing coats applied, sanded back and feels nice and smooth. Now for 50 million super thin coats.
The grain already looks awesome
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Lookin great Ponch, I had considered a plain finish but the dark lord forbade it, er I mean I wanted it to be similar to my JR. I also considered a headstock inlay then very nearly ordered an inlaid truss rod cover. Great minds and all.
Cheers Dedman. I must say that your themes are awesome especially your green burst on the ES5. I was going to tobacco burst but thought it was about time for a shellac based project
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Lookin good ponch....see you after 50 zillion shellac coats....
Here's the sealing coat on the back.
Procedure. Sand 180, 240 and 320. Leave the sawdust in place. Then pile on the shellac and rub in with 400 grit wet and dry. Once dry (24hrs min) sand back almost to bare wood to form the grain filled base for more thin coats
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Coming up nicely Andrew. Will it get a bit darker as you put on more coats or retain that lovely honey colour
Cheers vh the front seems to be as dark as it gets so the back will only has a bit to go colour wise
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Does the shellac get sanded on in granular state or as a liquid? Sounds like liquid and is a similar method that can be used with TO but never tried as that stuff can get quite sticky, particularly on a warm, hot or steamy day. Imagine shellac might be similar in going off tacky really quickly?
Did you manage to get a good grain fill with the 'leave the sawdust in place' method?
My natural finish with Aussie Oil on the 12 string '335-style' didn't really give me full grain fill.
Yes same as TO method. The shellac can get sticky just add a drop or two of virgin olive oil to keep it moving. (It separates and rises to the surface and can be wiped off later)
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It seems to have worked... I'll soon find out once the glossing up coats are applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by FredA
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Heh heh, Dark Lord. Love your work Dedman :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
nice work Ponch, and yet another grain fill method to file away
Wow Andrew, your grain looks awesome - especially on the front. She's going to be a beautiful axe.
cheers,
Gav.
nice work Ponch I missed this build diary. Natural look will look very cool.
good to see your Ponch avatar is back (nice close up) and the Swans avatar has gone, you got to be happy for the Bulldogs finally winning a premiership !
Thanks guys. Yep the Ponch avatar is back up and running. Happy for the Bulldogs they certainly deserved to win the final! I had a very entertaining grand final arvo despite the Swans loss, great fun
So the shellac was a disaster, I was not cut out to be a fine furniture finisher. I stripped this baby back and out with the old trusty Tru Oil...
I did however develop a new way of applying Tru Oil through this process. I'll video the technique on the neck
Here's the front, back and small video of the shine. Up to 800 grit.
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https://youtu.be/Kk6lYLoc9_I
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shame about the setback, interested to see how this is redone
Ok, here is the technique up to 800 grit. 1000+ to follow along with some vids.
(This is for natural finished wood - does not apply to a thinly veneered guitar....)
1. Sand wood to 320 grit. Depending on the marks to remove I go through 80,100,120,180,240,320
As per DB's mantra spend a lot of time on this getting it right. Your arms should REALLY ache after each grade of grit....
2. Apply liberal amounts of Tru Oil to the wood. Let it sit for 10 mins or so, letting it really soak in. Then, rub it off with a cloth (I use a pad of worn lint free cotton t-shirt). When I say rub it off, really hit it hard like you are polishing it, across the grain and with the grain). If you've done this correctly your pad will travel smoothly over the wood and there will be little to no Tru Oil visible on the surface (but it has rubbed into the grain and will seal it)
3. Progressively wet sand the wood with Tru Oil. Starting on 400, then 600 & 800 grit. Leave at least 24 hrs or more between sessions. Load up your wet/dry paper with Tru Oil and sand with the grain. You'll feel when it is cutting the previous surface (there is some friction) and when you've sanded enough (the sand paper will glide over). Work in small sections. Load up paper with Tru Oil as needed (don't let it get dry but don't overload)
After each wet sand, take a fresh cotton pad and wipe the Tru Oil off. I found pushing the pad away from my body along the length of the guitar works best for initial wipe over. Then around the edges to catch any drips. Lastly rub and burnish until it feels like your arm is about to drop off! If the pad starts to stick (you'll know what I mean) add a bit of mineral turps to the pad for lube.
If you've done this correctly (up to 800 grit) it should look like my previously posted video.
My previous Tru Oil efforts resulted in way too much build up but so far the finish achieved with this technique is to my personal liking
More to follow...
cool thanks Ponch
Focus if the day inbetween painting ceilings at home has been the headstock. Picked up some Tassie Oak dowel from the green shed (12.5mm) and sanded with 80 grit to fit existing tuner holes. Glued in with some titebond.
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the joys of pre drilled holes...
Yes... I was even contemplating some vintage Klusons using bushing adaptors. No go predrilled holes to big..
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i think it would be better if they werent drilled at all
Great Tutorial.
Presume this would not work if there is a stain underneath?
That's a good question Waz. I'll experiment on a later build.
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Hi Ponch, tend to think the sanding action is doing a grain fill at the same time. Should work on a solid colour but wouldn't risk it on a burst.
Does it end up with less coats and therefore quicker to the 'finish' line?
When I try on a solid colour I'm going to build up a few base coats of Tru Oil first. But that's for another day... This method does appear to require less coats. The finish on the back is shiny and hard, but very thin
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