Dedmans build 4 ES5-V

Just unpacked this today.
Everything is there. I won't be starting this kit for while as there are a few upgrades I want to do, like tail peice and tuners in gold. But the neck is a nice tight fit. I haven't had a chance to check it all over in fine detail but all seems well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psm1efuxdy.jpg

Not sure on a colour scheme yet, maybe a green stain with a black burst and sides or maybe red stain and black.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psuofjmu6z.jpg
or
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps721xrffm.jpg

Oh cool! It's gonna be good to see this going at the same time as Adam's build. Dig that green burst.

Hey Dedman nice looking kit mate ! I agree with Pabs if you can pull off the dark green and black burst with gold hardware would look superb !

Dude...you so have GAS!

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Originally Posted by Andy40

Dude...you so have GAS!

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Worst thing is there is at least 3 others I want to do. ;)

Dedman there aren't many forumites without GAS so don't even worry trying to fight it haha

Good stuff Dedman this kit was hard to resist lol. Mine is now ready for collection @ the local post office :)

did the damp rag test over it yesterday, couldn't find any glue spots, the factory has done well indeed.:D

Does this kit suffer the same aesthetic problem as the ES-3 kit?

As in not having a tenon joint to cover the neck heel over the body shoulder joint, and same sort of space between the neck and body on the body's top due to not having a overhanging fretboard.

It looks like it from the photos.

If that epoxy resin I'm about to use works in my ES-3 build, then I suspect it would sort that problem out quick smart.....only problem might be a slight need to change the way one finished their kit.

I'm actually thinking of doing just that, thinking of installing the neck before doing the stain anyway

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Originally Posted by Dedman

I'm actually thinking of doing just that, thinking of installing the neck before doing the stain anyway

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Right proper PIA once neck has been set trying to flip the guitar applying the finish. Understand why as it should create a better finish around the neck joint but biggest downside is how clumsy it gets as I found out on my EX-1.

Nice guitar Dedman look forward to seeing what you do and hearing the guitar with P90s

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Right proper PIA once neck has been set trying to flip the guitar applying the finish. Understand why as it should create a better finish around the neck joint but biggest downside is how clumsy it gets as I found out on my EX-1.

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Agree, I tried this method with an LPJ and it was nothing short of a PIA when applying the finish.

I think a good compromise is the staining , main paint or whatever , with separate neck and body, then final finish/clears after gluing...

Still clumsy trying to cover all sides in the one application and invariably prone to runs, or at least that is what I experienced and never doing that again as it created more work than what I hoped to save. Maybe if spraying it might work better?

yea I have a double carport with lots of hanging area to spray in. Can but try it once if its a pain , I won't do it on the next 237 LOL

This guitar is so on my to do list. Looking forward to see how it goes.

Kluson tuners and tail piece arrived at my shipper in the US today :) That just leaves the inks/stains to get.
Going to have a bit of break from builds for a few weeks, I have a Fuzz pedal to build that Doc made the board for and I'm thinking of building a 2x 12 speaker cab, set up so it can run as 2 separate 12's (so can run 2 amps into it) or as a dual speaker single input.
Yea, I like to keep busy in winter when I can actually breathe.

sounds good Dedman, there are always plenty of side projects to do !

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

sounds good Dedman, there are always plenty of side projects to do !

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Ain't that the truth! Starting on my rendition of DB's Neck Jig this weekend. In between bouts of sanding.

Nice one Dedman, looking forward to see how this turns out. Either G/B or R/B, I think they both look great.

rob

Love this kit Dedman, Really like that green ! Both are cool though...think I might have to get one too:D

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hey Dedman nice looking kit mate ! I agree with Pabs if you can pull off the dark green and black burst with gold hardware would look superb !

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+1 on the dark green/Black burst, I really would like to see what that would turn out like given the Dedman treatment.

so.. all the bits are here. Nearly time to start.
PUP is the neck one from the set I bought for the Jnr and only used the bridge. I will have to glue a couple of strips of ply under the top for the mounting screws as they miss the edges by about 1/2 mm, the P90 being wider.
Tail piece is a gold Kluson one as are the tuners which have the matching grooves. I have gold strap buttons and jack socket and a brass nut to finish it all off. wtf are those things on th efret board? well, I'm going to try to make some cool dots. The brass tube is used in knife making and comes in different patterns and diameters, I've sliced into into strips and will fit abalone dots into the large hole (used for a lanyard cord on knives). I'm going to finish smoothing them etc before even thinking about drilling the old dots out.
Colour will be a green/black burst. I have green fountain pen ink (thanks for link Waza) for the green, have tested it on various scraps and a couple of undiluted coats should get the bottle green I'm after. Not sure yet as to what black to use as I don't want this guitar to be glassy smooth and glossy and am thinking of using naughty oil.
Attachment 12565
Attachment 12566
Attachment 12567

Another stunner in the making and I really like the fretboard dot marker idea


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cheers Dedman, happy to help with the fountain pen ink idea. For the black you could almost do the same or go cheap and go to officeworks or similar to buy a black ink pad refill bottle cause black is black after all. Only issue is that ink tends to bleed across the timber and along the grain lines so trying to get a defined edge may prove tricky.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Cheers Dedman, happy to help with the fountain pen ink idea. For the black you could almost do the same or go cheap and go to officeworks or similar to buy a black ink pad refill bottle cause black is black after all. Only issue is that ink tends to bleed across the timber and along the grain lines so trying to get a defined edge may prove tricky.

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Yea, thats why I'm thinking of doing some tests with paints as I intend to spray the burst. Need to figure which paints will work under T/O and get a full black

those dot markers will look unreal Dedman, nice touch. Looks like some tasty upgrades

Did the timbermate slurry yesterday, first coat of ink for the burst on today.a couple of small bits of glue/filler showed up, I was able to use a fine sharpy to do a series of dots, then smudge them which pretty much hides them as part of the grain.
The clamps are holding a sliver of ply I've glued in to catch the mini humbucker mount as they just missed the edge of the hole by 1mm either side. Holes for the tail piece are drilled. Not sure about the head stock logo, might do the same as on the Jnr.
Not sure about the brass dots either, might just put in some abalone ones
Attachment 12645

love the emerald green colour Dedman, I think abalone dot markers would suit best, although brass may work well too !
We better get onto Ads to see how progress if his ES-5V build is going !
So are you staining the burst edges black ?

no, using paint for the burst, sides and neck.I was going to do TO over the top, but I have a heap of black acrylic and a heap of clear acrylic and not much money atm, so, will use what I have.

Have to agree with Wokks, that green will look great with the burst and gold hardware.
With the burst, can I make a suggestion - take the green all the way to the edge of the body. That way, if you start spraying the burst and decide a narrower burst is what you want, there wont be any gaps where you need to fill in the green, like around the f-holes.
Here's a trick I used, get an offcut of timber and mark on it how far you want the burst to go into the body, for example 3cm, and as use it as a depth gauge to keep the burst even all the way around. Could wrap tape around a pencil or old ruler, whatever works.
Might be easier to manage with the body laying flat rather than hanging. Some make templates for the burst but I'd prefer to be able to see how it's working out as I go. Just my 2c worth. (hope that made sense)

Grant

thanks Grant, I'm using the body contour (the arch ) as my outline for the burst so the green goes a bit past where it flattens toward the edges.I'll spray it free hand as a lot bursts I've seen using a template don't have much fade, I've got 3 different size air brushes so there will be much testing before taking to the body. Yea, I like to live on the (faded) edge :P

sounds good Dedman, look forward to seeing the black go on

yea me too :P it could end up with screaming followed by a coat of solid cherry red LOL
trying to copy this burst
Attachment 12646

What is that thing? Only 4 strings but looks like a very short and small body? Bass Uke perhaps?

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

What is that thing? Only 4 strings but looks like a very short and small body? Bass Uke perhaps?

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no idea, I found it on a google image search for "hollow body guitar"

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

What is that thing? Only 4 strings but looks like a very short and small body? Bass Uke perhaps?

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I think it is probably a normal sized uke. The strings are too thin for it to be a bass uke.

not much done today, I spent most of the morning trying to buy a 6 mm brad point drill to drill out the fret board dots. Ended up having to buy one with a countersink as well which made it a $14 drill bit ! :mad: Anyways....took the countersink off put it in the drill press and removed the plastic dots, replaced them with abalone and a wee bit off timbermate around the edges. I chickened out on the brass dots, will order some smaller diameter stuff and use it on Steampunk axe I have vaguely planned for some time in the distant future *which means I'm collecting weird stuff for it. So once the dots are settled and dried I can polish the fret board and frets, the neck was spot on from the factory not a single high fret!

sounds good Dedman, always a bonus when the frets are level out of the box ! Less work = win !