Ok, so I started a build diary over on the Welcome forum but I guess it should really be here. The story so far in this link:-
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5630
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Ok, so I started a build diary over on the Welcome forum but I guess it should really be here. The story so far in this link:-
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5630
Have been busy with other things but now getting back to the build. Have some Titebond and some Aussie Oil and some various grades of sandpaper. Also a couple sets of flatwound D'addario Chromes. I have sanded the body down to 320 grit. Don't want to go any further as the top laminate is really quite thin to start with. Have had to glue in some shims in the neck pocket to get a snug fit. Waiting for glue to dry before moving on.
I must have started here after your welcome thread, bloody good to see another Taswegian here!
I just checked out your other thread, and see you're from Deloraine. Beautiful town. Back in my college years I played the Trombone at the church there. Beautiful acoustics.
I was hoping Stringfest was on again this year, but it looks like it may have stopped completely.
sounds like the right start, enjoy
What did you use to shim up the neck pocket? I might have to do the same thing with mine. It's okay but I wouldn't call it a snug fit.
Peter
I used a bbq skewer and some veneer that i had available but it has all ended up a bit of a disaster. realised after glue dried that neck was no longer aligned with the bridge position. Have tried various things to get the neck off again. heat, steam, vinegar but can't get it to budge. Any advice anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh
Oh dear. What did you use the bbq skewer for? And what type of glue did you use?
Hi Taswegian, what sort of glue did you use ?
Sounds like you have tried all methods I can think of, have you tried to get a metal paint scraper in between the neck pocket and heel and try and slide it in ? Once you get a small gap then the steam should eventually make the glue give way
I used Titebond Original. A lot of it has come out with my various pryings and steamings but there it is a very large neck pocket with a lot of surface area. I can get a spatula an inch or so in under the heal so I will concentrate on getting so steam in there. At least I won't fill up the body with condensation working from that end. It is difficult to get direct access to the cut-away side. May try to persist with steam from our espresso machine. Dropped my smartphone and broke it so can't take any photos atm. Plan B is to get a floating bridge and set it up all slightly askew!Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Hi Taswegian I was going to suggest the bridge may have to move if you can't remove the neck.
Keep trying as you say it may take some time but steam should eventually loosen the bond of the glue.
Titebond original is the stuff we recommend you use to set necks, now you can see how good it is !
Try heat as well as vinger and prying, put a rag around the joint and heat up the entire wood area avoid fret board you want to make the entire area really hot without burning, a paint gun can do it but dont scorch the timber, When the woods really hot to touch try the solvents and prying...It take a bucket load of time but works.
Back again. Can't believe I have left this project abandoned for over two years. Someone gave us a steam cleaner so after four or five attempts managed to get the neck off. Lots if collateral damage to sort out but at least I can be moving forward.
better late than never;)
Another bunch of time has passed. Time to pick up the pieces. Today I glued and clamped some of the bits that came unstuck during the steaming and dismantling process. Don't see where to post photos. Posting on my phone browser. Might have to fire up the mainframe. I'll be back.
For Photos, “Go Advanced”, “Manage Attachments” and you’ll have to take it from there. I use a photo resizing app to reduce the photo to fit the Pit Bull size limitations.
Glad you got the neck off - looking forward to seeing where you're at with it
Attachment 32222
Attachment 32223Attachment 32224
Some of the collateral damage from the neck removal
Attachment 32225
Putting it back together.
This time we're going to get the neck on a bit straighter.
First attach the tailpiece. Folded paper to give a small gap to avoid rattles and buzzes.
Attachment 32226
Then insert the bridge posts (but not the bushings). I wrapped gaffa around the threads so they would be a snug fit in the post holes.
Attachment 32227
Popped the neck on with some E strings and the bridge. This is where the neck wants to sit. Still not quite straight enough.
Attachment 32228
Here we have a clarinet reed wedge pushing it a bit straighter. Within tolerance. I can recut the grooves in the bridge saddles for final precise alignment, or maybe get a floating bridge.
Attachment 32229
Here goes. Fingers crossed. Glued. Really don't want to have to take this apart again! Pickups just sitting there for show.
Attachment 32230
Needs healing!
Attachment 32231
Had a bit of blackwood the right thickness.
Attachment 32232
Sanded and filled. Not the flushest join. Also apparent is damage on the bout from the steam. Will be going for a darker back and sides to cover this up.
Attachment 32233
Likewise on other side.
Attachment 32234
Ok, Mask neck binding and apply tinted varnish.
Attachment 32379
Two coats.
Attachment 32380
Decided I didn't like it. Much sanding later and application of stain without varnish.
Attachment 32381
Several clear coats of Aussie Oil rubbed onto top. Walnut stain back and sides. Headstock face painted black.
Attachment 32382
Heat up soldering iron.
Before:
Attachment 32383
After:
Attachment 32384
Figure everything can fit in through pickup holes.
After this photo I added an extra ground wire to the back of all 4 pots.
Maybe I will redo all this one day with shielded wire. It's great fun putting it into the guitar!
More pictures of finish applied
Trial attachment of tuners. When I finally drilled the holes for the little screws I forgot I was going to align them all horizontally.
You may recall that the neck angle was still slightly askew but thought that a floating bridge or renotching the bridge saddles would get it right. Had an idea for a sort of fake floating bridge.
1. Remember to drill an extra hole for an earth with to the tailpiece because I'm not using the stud mounting inserts.
2. Some strips of hardwood, blackwood I think or maybe myrtle, glue together and sanded to contour.
3. Holes drilled for studs.
4. Threads cut with bolt.
5. Voila
Attachment 32397
However quite a lot of sanding to get action down. Also I ground the bottom off the ABR to make it flat.
I started to get quite excited and didn't stop to take photos of the next few processes.
Getting the pickguard to look correct was interesting. Compared to an ES-175 there are some differences. They have a 14 fret neck/body join and the kit has a 15/16 fret join, so there is not as much real estate between the pickup and the cutaway. Also it was predrilled for the bracket a bit close to the edge once I had the basic shape right.
Attachment 32396
Finished maybe. Still touching up fret ends and whatnot. Very low fast action. Plays really well.
Great ideas on making a bridge, I’ll file that away in the memory bank. I also like your choice of walnut stain. Nice work.
I'm finally getting around to finishing mine. Is there a 'normal' order for the layout of the 4 pots (volumes at the top, tones closer to edge, volumes near the tail, tones near neck)?
The normal arrangement is the two volumes to the front (neck), the two tones to the rear (tail). Bridge volume and tone at the bottom, neck volume and tone at the top.
+1 re- the bridge. That's an idea I will explore for my Hobbit build.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Peter
Great job Taswegian, the guitar looks lovely.