Printable View
I bought some Dingotone Guitar Wax when I ordered my kit, so It's been sitting at the bottom of a box of PBG goodies for almost 2 months while I've been sanding and staining. I opened it yesterday and it's completely dry and solid.
What's the best way to reinvigorate it?
Really Bluesy? dried up? do you have a picture? I've had mine since I think November. Yeah its a bit hard but I just gouge out a bit and roll it in my fingers and hands to warm it up and make it pliable and she's all good.
Dammit!
Flick me you post address and I will send you a replacement.
Hi DB, in the same boat as I have 2 pots and went to use one of them today and it was as solid as.....?
Will it soften up if you gently heat the container by immersing in some hot water for a period of time perhaps? Or would I do better leaving it out in the sun and use some natural solar energy to soften things up? Not much sun around today so that wasn't an option.
Cheers, Waz
As I was saying Waz, just dig a bit out and use body heat and friction if you are stuck if there's no sunQuote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Thanks DB. PM sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
Thanks for the tip Andy. I cut some out with a knife and am rolling it in my fingers while typing. Sort of, blue tack consistency now. This is what it looks like - sort of like a tealight candle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Attachment 8390
Thanks Bluesy, yep similar to mine. As you only need a bit I just used a bit, cut out with a knife with tacky consistency on a rag and applied it to the fret board. before and after shots Attachment 8391 Attachment 8392
Seems to work. Got it to a doughy consistency. So do you massage it into the guitar like this?
I'll give it a try
are you putting it on the fretboard or the guitar? If on the fret board yep I massage it in then once i finish the last fret i go back and give each fret a wipe to take any excess off. usually collects at the fret wire. IF you are putting it on the guitar body, ask Shazzrandom I think she finished an ES in dingowax.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueshound
Guys you really dont need to be rubbing anything into rosewood fretboards, they have their own oils.
Cosmetically they might look better, but thats it, a bit of virgin olive oil maybe x2 a year is all you need, i have some pure lemon oil that i have used for over 20yrs
Naphta (lighter fluid) for loosening the dirt. Then 0000 steel wool across all the fingerboard. Finally, clean the board, polish the frets (mask the fingerboard and use the 0000 steel wool). When the frets are clean you can then pure lemon oil the board, its pretty simple really.
What do you suggest someone should use on a maple fret board as that will be waiting for me on build # 4.Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyw
Waz that will depend on what you want to finish with, Fender use a lacquer then dress system, seeing as the frets are all ready in the necks on these i would finish my neck (poly, nitro, tru oil, min wax wipe on poly etc) then clean the frets up
Tony is correct in saying Rosewoods do have their own oils.
However I have found that a lot of the kiln dried stuff seems to lack the oil, I guess it must oxidize or something?
There is a huge difference in the timber available today compared to what we got 20- 30 years ago.
Some of it was so oily all you needed to do was buff it with cloth with a drop or two of lemon as Tony suggested.
I can remember one peice that was so oily I was worried the glue wouldn't hold :p
I prefer the aesthetics of the wax over an oil on a rosewood fretboard now. Oily wood or not it still looks dry to me which isn't my subjective preference. I suppose the wax must also give the fretboard some protection over my durty little fingers. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by tonyw
I wipe my boards after every play, i clean them and give them a rub down with a tiny tiny amount of pure lemon oil every string change, i dont change strings as much as i possibly should, i have some ducks axe wax here i got for free from the USA and its not too bad.
If you over hydrate your fretboard, the oils just come weeping back out and stuffs your strings.
A friend of mine has been using "simple green all purpose" to clean his guitar fret boards
Safety & Environmental friendly Non-toxic, biodegradable, non-hazardous, non-flammable, non-corrosive so i suppose it cant hurt. Mine used to get a good dose of beer and whiskey ;)
Tony, I've likely got this wrong - are you suggesting using those finishes on the entire neck including fretboard or neck EXCEPT fretboard. If the latter, what about the maple fretboard - Dr Duck, lemon oil, ???.Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyw
The full finish is on a maple necks with maple fretboard only, the lemon oil etc is for rosewood fretboards these you dont finish but i know some who have.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh
I know some people who keep their maple boards without any finish, but they end up looking very dirty and very sad very quickly.
I just disposed of (correctly) all my Tru Oil large and small bottle, it was getting on in age so i wont bother trying to use it, i am going for a wipe on poly this time, then i might see how the Dingo Beta stuff goes on a project i am about to start after he releases it.
I could just go and arc up my mates guitar spray booth, but i have a thing for hand finished guitars these days.
So on my tele kit (arrives tomorrow) which has all maple neck/fb, would it be okay to do Tru Oil on neck and fretboard? What about staining/dyeing the fretboard?
I am not sure how the Dingo Tone stuff goes on maple fretboards, if thats the stain your using, but most frets are stuck in with CYA glue, if you use a wipe on stain and any of this glue is on the fingerboard the stain will not take up, best way i found was to spray a nitro stain on the neck and fretboard called a fader coat then top it off with some clear poly or nitro, wiping on finishes on maple fretboards creates a build up around the frets.
You can wipe in on, as many have probably done, just i prefer not to use wipeon on maple fretboards.
I am sure if you start a build thread you will get more answers to your questions than i can provide, seeing as alot of people would of used wipeons on maple.
I agree totally with Tony on not using DT on fingerboards, it isn't designed for that.
I have been messing around with a fingerboard oil but getting that sweet spot has proven difficult but I will nail it.
So, either Dingowax or Dr Ducks are my two go to products.
I have also been known to use the old CA glue to seal and harden fingerboards made from Rosewood, as far as Maple goes I recon if it is Canadian Rock Maple it probably doesn't need anything other than a wipe of oil.