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While I impatiently await my kits, I was going over the pickup wiring diagrams in the 'Guides' section.
I noticed that on the TL-1 diagram, the tone pot isn't connected to anything except the capacitor.
I'm guessing there is something missing from the diagram - the tone pot must be connected to the circuit somehow, right?
Anyone have an updated diagram?
Peter.
Something like this?
Attachment 8267
Exactly like that!
Thanks tonyw :)
Some kits, like the TL-1, have certain connections pre-wired at the factory as the pots/switches are already set up on the control plate etc. On the PBG TL diagram it states at the bottom that the pre-wired connections aren't shown... it's a little confusing when you just look at the diagram, but it makes sense when you have the control plate in hand. Good for new builders, but less so if you're re-wiring/replacing components.
Weirdy'd right on the money with the diagram - given there are heaps of diagrams online for how to wire Tele style guitars, etc, we've tried to focus the diagrams on the specifics of the Pitbull guitars to give newbies the best chance of getting it right.
Fair comment Brendan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
Spent a bit of time re-wiring a couple of my son's guitars yesterday. One was a P Bass the other a highly modified Strat and found the PBG Wiring diagrams a bit short on content but a good starting point none the less. However, internet searches proved information overload as there are so many ways to do just about anything. Ended up with about 4 or 5 examples of each as reference tools and re-acquainted myself with a soldering iron and about 8 hours later finished them both. Good practice before I start the wiring on my own PBG kits and might put up a separate thread to show how I modded the Strat in a H-S-H with 3 x mini DPDT switches plus the standard 5 way selector.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Yes, a bit confusing - I saw the comment on the diagram that said the factory wiring wasn't included but if you don't know what's wired at the factory, you don't know if it's missing or not :confused: .
Since I'm replacing the pots and caps I will need the full diagram - the one tonyw posted should be just the ticket.
Peter.
Getting everything ready to tackle the soldering and I noticed a slight difference between the image tonyw posted above and the diagram I found on the Tonerider website. In the Tonerider diagram they show the cap soldered to the middle leg of the tone pot and the case of the tone pot. In the diagram above it shows the cap soldered between the middle leg of the tone pot and the case of the volume pot.
My electronics knowledge is pretty limited but I think either of these should be fine since the cases all link to the ground going to the output jack. The factory wiring has the cap all on the tone pot but it's pretty scrunched up around that pot. Might give a bit more room if I went between the pots.
I soldered the the cap to the middle connector and the top of the tone pot. As the top one is the earth it doesn't matter where it goes as long as it's earthed and I have an earth wire running from tone to volume top following this diagramAttachment 10691
One last stupid question for tonight. The legs on the orange drop cap are really long - 4cm each - can i just trim them down to a more manageable length?
Yes, no issue there.
Hi Peter, there are no stupid questions, only the ones you don't ask !
Yes sure I usually solder the capacitor in place then cut off any excess.
The legs are long as some circuits you can run the capacitor legs to join between the volume and tone pots and save using a wire.
Thanks Pablo/Wokka!
Well, since there are no dumb questions..... here's one more.
I bought a bunch of braided shielded wire with my kits to upgrade them, as I heard the braided/shielded was better. But with the braid exposed on the outside, rather than as a wire inside the coated wire (explaining poorly, I know), is there any issue with things contacting that shielding ? When I'm running a ground wire between things, can I just get rid of that shielding since I only need the one ground wire, or what else do I do with it. Maybe I should have just bought regular wire or just reuse the factory wire?
Hi Peter, I'd still copper shield the cavities, you can still use the braided shielded wire but cloth wire or the regular wire should be fine as the wire run lengths are short as the switch is adjacent the volume and tone knobs
I've shielded all the cavities (what a bugger trying to get the copper tape in place without it sticking to everything) so hopefully that will reduce hum.
If I use the shielded wire though, do I just leave the shield on but not soldered to anything and just use the inner wire?
Hi Peter, if you have shielded the cavities it may be safer to use the standard wire unless you use heatshrink on connections to avoid contact with nearby wires or shielding. The shield can be used as an earth wire and if it makes contact with the copper shielding it may earth the circuit and cut the output.
Ideally, with shielded cable, you want the inner core to carry your 'hot' signal and the shield/braid to carry the ground. For example, when connecting your volume to the output jack a single shielded wire will carry both the hot (inner core) and ground (shield/braid) and help to shield from noise. And, just like your cavity shielding needs to be connected to the ground at some point, so does the shield/braid on a shielded wire to do its job effectively. Heat shrink tubing can help to minimise the chance of shorts in places where you have the 'hot' exposed, and don't want to risk the shield/braid touching it. If it is a short connection, say between two adjacent pots, then noise is less of an issue so standard wire will be fine and easier to work with.
If you're just running a ground link, like the ground connection to the bridge/tailpiece or linking the ground between the backs of pots etc, then standard wire, coated or bare, is all you need. Some use bare braid or heavy gauge wire for ground links, whatever works for you. Other things can also act as ground links, like the control plate on a Tele which, if it's conductive, already links the pot casings and switch, so you only need a ground connection on one of them.
So, I'm still not clear on this..... for my TL-1 I've shielded all cavities including the control cavity. From what Wokka said, it sounds like I need to make sure that my ground wires don't touch the shielding or it may ground the circuit and cut the output, but WeirdBits mentions that the cavity shielding needs to be connected to ground at some point. Are they not all grounding to the same thing? Do I need to run a ground wire from the shielding on each of the cavities to ..... somewhere? Also, do I need to run a ground wire from the bridge (soldered to it, or just touching it when bridge screwed down) over to the back of one of the pots or could I just solder it to the ground wire on the bridge pup?
So many questions, so little understanding :rolleyes:
Weirdy is correct. Follow what he has said.
As long as the bridge is touching the earth/ground wire solidly then you should not have a problem.
Yep Peter, you'll need to trim them after measuring.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterh
Edit: Seems I answered an old question, I missed the second page. It was early in the morning.
okay, I think I'm understanding this better now, so here's what I think I need to do.
1) run ground wire from bridge into bridge pup cavity
2) solder the ground wire to copper shielding in bridge pup cavity
3) run ground wire from bridge pup cavity to back of pot in control cavity
4) shield back of pickguard around neck pup cavity
5) solder ground wire to neck pup cavity shielding
6) run ground wire from neck pup cavity to back of pot in control cavity
From what I've read, since the outside of the pots are all connected by the metal of the control plate cover, the ground should only need to go to one of the pots but I may run another ground to the other pot just to be safe.
For wire, I think I'll just remove the braid and use the cloth covered inner wire for the grounds.