Maple veneer - 'Popping the flame'?

I've seen a few videos where they put black dye on the maple veneer, then rub it back before applying the colour.

That idea terrifies me for my first build on a number of levels. What if it's too dark? What if I sand through the veneer?

I mean, how necessary is it? Wouldn't the flame still be visible, and a sort of 3D effect anyway?

Are there any A/B comparisons showing the difference with / without putting the black on first?

Also, I read somewhere that you should use a spirit(?) based dye for that first step?

I'm ready to apply the finish as soon as my Dingotone shows up, but I'm getting very nervous and not sure which way to go.

Does the Dingotone come with instructions?

Hi Muzza,
I can only speak from my limited experience, I used a waterbased stain to 'pop' the grain. The stain soaks into the more porous parts of the grain, to highlight that part. It doesn't take any heavy handed sanding to remove the stain from the less porous parts of the grain in the veneer (because it hasn't soaked in).

The flame will still be there, but subtle in the background, and easily overlooked.

Second the waterbase stain..

Would I use the Black Stump for that, or is that just wasting it? (I think yes).

What affordable product should I use for that initial blackwash?

Muzz, just for an alternate point of view, I used Ebony Timbermate to "pop" the grain on my LP-1SS. It wasn't a bad choice as it layers on top of the veneer and you can sand it back without going to far, it also acts a a filler. In saying that I think you'd get a better "pop" from a waterbased stain as the ebony timbermate is a bit subtle.

You don't have to 'pop' the flame, it's entirely optional. It depends on the effect you're looking for, the colour(s) you're using and the type of cap/veneer on the kit.

Dingotone, depending on the colour, will highlight the flame to some degree without doing anything else to 'pop' it. This was the effect on a headstock veneer with just two stain coats and two intensifier coats of an early version of DB's orange Dingotone.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...2&d=1415716667

If you do decide to use a darker colour to pop the flame you'll probably be better off applying it before doing any sanding on the cap, that way you minimise the risk of sanding through and pop flame flame at the same time.

(and no Woks, it's still not finished)

One thing you can also do with the water based stain is to apply it all over and then use a clean wet rag to draw the stain back out of the surface grains. Means a lot less sanding is needed in the end.

cheers,
Gav.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

One thing you can also do with the water based stain is to apply it all over and then use a clean wet rag to draw the stain back out of the surface grains. Means a lot less sanding is needed in the end.

cheers,
Gav.

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Good tip Gav. Presume with maple caps you also need to be careful just how wet things get?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

One thing you can also do with the water based stain is to apply it all over and then use a clean wet rag to draw the stain back out of the surface grains. Means a lot less sanding is needed in the end.

cheers,
Gav.

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Oooh... Me likey that idea!

As for stain to use, I used stamp pad refill ink from Officeworks. I got it for just under $6.

I think maple caps are more susceptible to sanding, than from water!

Thanks for the advice Swanny.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Swanny

As for stain to use, I used stamp pad refill ink from Officeworks. I got it for just under $6.

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Cheers Swanny. Do you put it on neat, or thin it down?