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Hi all,
I'd like to get the RC-1 kit but basswood worries me. I keep hearing how soft it is and how the grain may not lend itself very well to staining? Would the different laminated sections be really obvious?
Any advise or suggestions appreciated.
Cheers, Shayne
Hi Shayne, some basswood can have some fairly nice grain but generally it's not the most exciting timber and is pretty soft.
The different laminated pieces of the body will be pretty obvious where they join
I thought in another thread you were looking at the ES-2V ?
What, is there a problem with wanting more than one kit? I'm sure it's early symptoms of GAS!
Swanny - basswood is fine - yes it is soft - depending on your finish choice, this will create a harder shell around the guitar. That said - they are instruments and even ash / mahogany will dent given enough force.
I have dropped a finished basswood PBass body ~1.2m onto a dirty concrete floor. Did bang it up a bit, but I got lucky and got away without any chips. Given the height and concrete floor, I would have had the same outcome from whatever type of wood.
Different section laminations within basswood tend to be closer in colour - ash can be quite marked difference in laminations. Grain - well - depends - I have seem some amazing spalts and some pretty average spalted tops - sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't. All part of the joy of wood. With the right treatment, you can get some grain out of basswood - ash is naturally very grainy, mahogany almost none. All will take stains nicely, just the outcomes are a touch different.
Hope that helps.
Sorry - quick add - basswood is a good starting wood - if you are not familiar with woodwork - it is easy to work with (yes, unprotected it will dent easily, so takes some care), but sands nicely and stains easily. It's a great first kit - especially if you are looking at more than one kit over time. I've done a couple of basswood and am now working through some ash - will be looking to 'hog at some stage to see what the tonal / weight / workability / etc differences are for myself.
Yep, trying to decide between the two. Really like the RC-1, if it had a laminated top I'd get it for sure. The ES-2V is very cool too, although filling the tail piece holes to fit a trapeze is a little off putting. Both would be great projects - just still at the planning stage and researching as this is my first build. Cheers
Old ES-2V model on the left. New 'F' hole design on the right. I was just about to pull the trigger on one when I realised the factory had changed the design.
I may be in the minority here, but I hate the change.
Attachment 7983
Not a fan of the new style either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
If you have a maple neck and want same colour as on the body basswood is the nearest match and the main reason why I bought a basswood EX-1 instead of the Ash body. Also struck it lucky with some really interesting grain too. Sure it looks more like pine but for newbies like me that is OK as I was more after the uniformity in colour and ease of sanding/finishing. Definitely a softer wood and easily dings and marks whilst unfinished but seems OK once you have plenty of layers of finish on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
Hi Brendan, the ES-2V has a maple top - only problem is I would need to plug the tail piece holes to have the cool trapeze. In your experience, how noticeable would the plugs be or is there some other trick? Cheers
If you've got some matching maple veneer, use a plug cutter and matching Forstner bit. If it's done well, it's almost invisible.
DON'T use a dowel to plug the holes - when you apply stain the end grain will show up like dogs doodads
Thanks Brendan,
I pulled the trigger on the RC-1 this morning. I plan on going for a solid colour based on the basswood being a little soft and a generally unimpressive timber to stain. I have some experience in automotive spray painting (mostly acrylic and some 2 pack), but never a solid colour over timber. I guess you would need to prep with an overall grain filler - sand, primer coat - sand then colour coat - sand - buff or sand then clear coat? I've got a compressor and guns etc, but suspect a good job could be achieved with rattle cans?Would like to hear your thoughts if you've got time. Also, how do you deal with the edge binding? I suspect you would tape off the thicker edge (on the sides of the guitar) but what about the thin top edge? could you just sand or scrape off paint as applied - is the binding made of a hard material that can be wet n dry sanded back to original? P.S. I really like the look/colour of the RC-1 on the left of screen (greeny/blue) on PB's you tube pro-mo (the one where Adam and friends are siting around on the lounges). P.P.S what is GAS? Cheers
Hi Shayne,
yes the procedure you explained sounds pretty spot on. Tape off the side of the binding and it can get wet sanded or scraped to clean it up.
You can get good results from rattle cans but the more expensive cans will give you better results.
GAS is Guitar Aquisition Syndrome so basically builders finish one kit and order the next, and the next etc !