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Hi guys, I'm trying to source some flamed maple for a bookmatched top on a Tele build. I haven't had much luck finding anything so far.
It only needs to be a veneer a few mm thick but I can work with thicker stock too.
If any one can help finding some it would be greatly appreciated.
Here's what it will be going on, Qld Rosewood slab body, PNG rosewood neck, Lace Shae Oak(WA) fretboard.
Stewmac in the US usually have decent flame tops.
Hi Dan
Have dealt with this guy off ebay generally has some nice stuff and good service.
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/thinwooda...72.m2749.l2754
Jayzuz Tony.... The postage that guy charges is outrageous!
60-80 bucks is twice what you should be paying......
They manipulate the postage as they pay e-bay their commission on the sales price.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
And that is why I don't buy off flea bay......
DB
My postage was I think around 32 bucks when I ordered my 4 matched sets. That quoted postage seems to be the standard on a lot of the US listings on ebay with UPS international priority as the default, but is sometimes cheaper once you go through the transactions and contact the seller and even when having to pay the high rates sometimes get a credit.
And unfortunately when you cant get it in Oz .......
Dan - given you've gone all natives for the build - any thoughts of native veneer for the top? I've been browsing topveneer.com.au for a while and they seem to have a large range of natives and 15% off at the moment!
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll check them out. Looks like I will have to get it from overseas.
Brendan, the guys set on a maple top but I'll definitely check out those veneers, I like the idea of keeping it all local. I'll see what I can find an maybe I can persuade him otherwise.
nice build Dan
Having given this some thought I am wondering, do you really want to use a thin veneer on a customers build?
Thin veneers can be difficult to glue down without a vacuum bag and also they can "creep", leaving either a gap or the flames not matching correctly.
Another potential problem is unless you are binding the Guitar, a thin veneer will cheapen the look and also may lift around the edge.
So, IMHO, it probably would be better all round to use a thicker top of 3-5mm as this will circumvent the above mentioned potential dramas.
Sure, it will cost around the $200 mark for a master grade top but on a custom build it is worth the outlay.
I also must agree with the Bman, that body has a beauty all of its own and it would be a pity to cover it.
Hey Dan
Like DB I didn't realise you were putting this together for customer. I have agree with DB, it's going to be far better for your reputation and your build if you use a thicker cap. The thin veneers (unless you have the proper equipment) will always allow the glue to seep through and make it nigh impossible to absorb stain, which spoils the point of having a veneered top in the first place. It's also significantly easier and more likely to result in a good tight fit down the middle line (and again with the right equipment and know how you can get this perfect with a thicker cap. Its a bit 'hit and miss' when working with the flimsy thin stuff as DB suggested.
Give it some thought, I'm sure you will be glad you did and your customer will receive an awesome guitar from you.
Gavmeister
Good advice guys, the plan has been to use a 3-4mm top. Well that's what the pocket depths have been setup for. Like you say I prefer to use a thicker top than a thin veneer, though it thought it might be easier to come by a nice thicker veneer rather than a "top".
I'm going to be binding it with some maple strips I have here. I've only used plastic binging before so I've been testing out some jigs and methods for bending it. I'm trying out soaking it in ammonia, wrap in foil, heat with heat gun, clamp into moulds.
Ill probably do the first trial tomorrow, I'm open to suggestions if I'm making it to complicated for myself.
Hi Dan
You need to make a sandwich if you are going to be bending wood.
The ingredients will be Tin Foil, a thin WET cloth to wrap around your wood binding. The tin foil then wraps around the cloth and traps the water in the cloth as best as you can by folding the ends.
Then heat bending VERY slowly as you go. When done put it in the mould.
I find that as long as I follow thus procedure I don't need to soak the bindings beforehand. Just make sure the 'sandwich' is bendable as too much rag or tin foil will hamper the bend....
An easy mould set up is to rout the body shape into one of those professional grade (Teflon?) plastic chopping boards.
As you heat and bend the strip you force it into the rout.
When it cools and dries it should retain the shape making it easy to install.
Slightly off topic, but for future reference, this method works really well with ABS bindings, allows you to bond several strips together easily with acetone as the acetone wont melt the board...
Awesome, sounds like I'm on the right track then.
I found this video, this is the method I'm trialling. What do you guys think about using ammonia, I have tried soaking a small piece in straight household cloudy ammonia for a couple hours. It seemed to work well leaving the sample quite flexible. Maybe I should try diluting with hot water.
http://youtu.be/fUnc0KsXgs4
Deffo worth a try.
Looks like it works well, his guitars are really nice