Slight modifications of Current KIT's

As the header asks.

I would love to see any current ES-335 kits modelled and modified so that either the F holes were as large as standard Gibson F holes [allowing full sized pots to be installed - only MINI pots can be installed ATM]
OR
Have the centre block drilled like current ES models, so the the wiring can be passed through a space in the body on the control side of the Bridge Pickup.

I would also LOVE to see a ES 335 model, routed as above, but also for REAL P90 Soapbar pickups.

P90's in Humbucker mounts, are NOT P90"s.....forget it, they are different things.

You would have a unique and highly wanted product if you chose to make it.
How many of these have you seen?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUvtTV1fU1k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkH3Brp9pIo

A much wanted build I suspect....I'll certainly buy a few, just so I don't have to re route the current ES-1 body

Hey Tweaky, both the youtube vids ES's sound and look great. If you would buy a few then email Adam about a custom order, think if he gets about 5 orders he can go ahead and place the order with the factory.
Are the pup holes for P90's slightly smaller than a standard bucker or a different shape ? From the 2nd video looks like they sit ontop of the hole and are screwed from the top each end.
There is a possibility a full size pot may fit through a kit hole on a weird angle. I have some Bourns pots I can try but suspect the pots you are talking about are larger ?

P90's [Soapbars] are generally slightly larger in width and depth,[only a few mm's , but enough that you wouldn't want to tackle it yourself with a router with a very thin maple top, hence the request ]
It depends on manufacturer, but basically there is a standard.
I prefer Kinmans P90 plans, as they cover every possibility.

http://www.kinman.com/image/pdf/Inst...-narrow475.pdf

I've been thinking about doing it/altering it [my ES-1] manually with a "Cut to Cut ' method technique as used for inlay, as in you cut with a scalpel where you want the final cut to be, then use a chisel to cut up unto that, leaving a clean edge.:)

The Dog-ear pickups on P90's are exactly the same, only the mounting holes for the plastic covers differ [same inside, different covers]...they were used originally for the Gibson L5, I think the reasoning was that since the spruce tops of the L5's had very straight grain, having any screws close to the pickup cut out, would leave the top susceptible to cracking down the grain...they were correct, that's exactly what happened on the early none dog eared P90 equipped Gibson Archtops.

I've measured my ES-1 kit against my Gibson ES347, and the F holes are quite a bit narrower, and absolutely NO way you could get a full sized pot through the ES-1's F holes....seems the ES-1 is modelled after the original ES-335, which suffered the same problem for the Gibson employee regarding wiring them up, that's why Gibson change the block running down the inside of the ES335 so it left a gap at the bridge pickup area, so it could be wired easier through there, rather than through the F holes.

Anyway...it would be nice to see this happen

Standard fullsized pots dont fit through the F-holes on the ES kit no matter how you angle them... and even if you could get 1 in there's no chance of getting a whole wiring loom in.

I've got standard pots in my ES kit but i cut a chunk out of the body under the pickguard to fit eveything in.

This is why I use Bournes mini pots in these kits.
Better pots cant be bought for the same money and you can get the little guys in just about anywhere...
Saves on bad language :p

I was thinking the same thing when it comes to wiring up my ES-1 kit.[mini Bournes that is ]

I'm guessing you use the plastic tubing method for pulling the pots into the mounting holes ? It seems the least troublesome way to go about it.
Is there a specific 'Best Practice' for installing the wiring through the F hole that you could recommend?, like a particular order, say Jack plug, then Tone/Tone/Volume/Volume ?

I briefly had a half hearted look at cutting a hole in the bridge pickup hole area, for possible mounting the pots that way, but I saw how close the holes are for the bridge mounting bushings, and thought if I did try it, I might undermine the strength of that area, so have decided against it

Come the big wiring up day, I'll have a swear jar, punching bag, and if worse comes to worse, some Valium handy

I made up the wiring harness and attached the tubes then pulled it all through, starting with the output and working my way forward..

I then spent the next twelve months recieving weekly therapy.

Still get the twitches and cold sweats whenever someone brings me a hollow body for wiring work..........

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tweaky

I was thinking the same thing when it comes to wiring up my ES-1 kit.[mini Bournes that is ]

I'm guessing you use the plastic tubing method for pulling the pots into the mounting holes ? It seems the least troublesome way to go about it.
Is there a specific 'Best Practice' for installing the wiring through the F hole that you could recommend?, like a particular order, say Jack plug, then Tone/Tone/Volume/Volume ?

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Yeah, the tube method makes the process an almost enjoyable one....place all the tubes through the output and Pot holes, then feed into the mouth of the Output Jack and drop the jack into the f-hole. Draw the tubing out of the output hole until the slack it taken up.
Now connect the tubing by pressing it onto the Pot control stem of the bottom Tone Pot. Drop it into the f-hole and take up the slack on the Pot and then take up the newly created slack on the Output Jack.
Follow this with the other Tone Pot, the lower Volume Pot and top Volume pot dropping each in turn into the f-hole and taking up the slack in reverse order as above. This is important to make sure the wiring or tubes do not get tangled up.
When you get the output jack through the output hole, slip the washer and nut onto the tube and let it slide down the neck of the tube and tighten up the washer and nut on the Jack. Do not try and pull the tube out of the jack holding it with your fingers before putting on the nut. You WILL 'drop' it which means more money in the swear jar!
Same applies with the tone and volume pots. Slip nut and washer over the tubes down the neck and tighten up. The switch can usually be done by hand as it is very close to the f-hole.

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Originally Posted by dingobass

I then spent the next twelve months recieving weekly therapy.

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Which is where DB and I met for the first time....and every week for the next 12 months. His troubled screams whenever the psych brought a 335 into the consulting rooms still haunt me to this day.

Spare a thought for me Gav, I was the psych remember that! You two are lucky you got the counselling from me for that deal!

Gav said Psych not psycho, Pest...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Gav said Psych not psycho, Pest...

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Ok so someone doesn't want their extended counselling then....

more thread jacking good work fellas

It's a gift...

i think Gav and DB need to have a room full of 335s as a desensitisation program... at the rate he builds, wokka could knock them up in about a week... do unwired mockups so wokka doesnt loose it too

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stan

i think Gav and DB need to have a room full of 335s as a desensitisation program... at the rate he builds, wokka could knock them up in about a week... do unwired mockups so wokka doesnt loose it too

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You sound like our psych......narcissistic sociopath that he is! ;)

i think we are all a bit nuts here Gav

I'm still yet to build a 335...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by keloooe

I'm still yet to build a 335...

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It's so easy especially the wiring part....