Solid colour finish

Hi everyone, this is my first proper post on here, I've been scouring these forums for the past few days and I have so many questions seeing as I have very, very basic woodworking skills. I want to get all the information I can before I start to give myself the best chance.

My first build is going to be a standard telecaster. I've looked over the "How to build your guitar kit" threads but couldn't find anything definitive and step by step on solid body colours with a smooth finish.
The first thing I do when starting to finish the body and neck would be, I'm guessing, is to sand? I've heard things about using Timbermate to fill in pores and such but what is the procedure? Which should I do first? Which grade of sandpaper should I start and finish at? When should I wet sand if at all? If I'm rasping my headstock what's the best way to get that smooth again? Does the neck need Timbermate as well? Does it need to be stained or can I finish it in a clear coat? The colour I have chosen in Montana Hardcore 2 in Max Green but it's a gloss colour, will there be any extra steps I have to take? If I want the finish to be sort of satin what's the procedure there?

Ah sorry for all the questions! I just like to be absolutely sure!
Thank you

Hey Joey,

I'm about to begin a TL-1 kit build, with a solid colour finish.

Definitely the first step is sanding, using a sanding block and 320grit sandpaper, work the entire guitar along the grain, it should take you a few evenings to complete this step.

The use of grain/pore filler depends on the wood, basswood and maple don't need this step, but ash, and mahogany certainly do. Once you complete your initial sanding, you apply the wood filler in a thin layer over the entire guitar (with a plastic spreader preferably). Once it has cured, you then get out your sanding block and 320grit paper again and repeat step one, another few evenings.

What you are trying to do is level the surface, no high spots, no low spots. Low spots can be filled with grain filler to a point (under 1/2mm).

Once you have a level surface, free of all irregularities, you then have a choice to make, do you apply a primer coat or go straight to colour coat. I prefer primer coats, because I feel it binds the layers together, and it also gives you a chance to see any last problems in the surface.

My painting routine will be:

2 coats high build primer
(sand)
6 coats enamel

All sprayed with an HVLP gun set to maximum paint flow, inlet pressure about 25psi.

Once the final coat of colour has cured for a week or two, I'll then wet sand through a range of grits, 600-800-1500-2000 until I achieve a uniformly-dull surface. I'll then use a random orbital polisher and bonnet (3"), and work through 3 liquid compounds (3m cutting compound, 3M Finesse-it swirl remover, 3M glazing), then several coats of automotive wax.

If you want a satin finish rather than full gloss, the best idea is to add a "flattener" to your paint. Flattener is just silica, because the only difference between gloss and satin and matte is the regularity or irregularity of the surface at a microscopic level. Introducing silica makes the surface rougher, thereby reducing gloss. Add enough and you will get a matte finish.

Could you just sand it and not polish?...if you wanted matter perhaps, but satin is tricky.

It should take about 2 months all up.

In the meantime, you must dress your frets, sand, stain, or just clear-coat your neck after shaping the headstock, do your wiring, etc etc etc.

I started my FS-1 in May, and I hope to present it in October, though French-polishing an FS-1 is significantly more involved than a TL-1.

Hey Joey,

great advice from moose. If you are going to use rattle cans, first make sure your colour and clear coats are compatible. Sand as much as you can to begin with. Personally for solid colour I sand 120, 180, 240, 360, 400. Then fill the grain with Timbermate and sand back with 400. You can do this more than once if need be to give a nice smooth surface. Now a couple of primer coats. Wet sand the primer back with 600 to remove a bit of the Orange peel. Now color coats. You need just enough for coverage. Don't overdo the coats! Now clear coats. You will need to build up enough to allow for wet sanding later on. After you have a few coats on, level the surface by wet sanding with 600 grit. Be careful not to sand through. Now a couple more clear coats and allow it to hang and fully cure. Wet sand with 1500 and 2000 grit. The finish should be nice and matte at this stage. For gloss finish go on with Meguiars compounds.

hope this helps.

cheers,
Gavin.

Hi, Gavin thanks for your reply, If I'm not wrong you're the person who made the surf-green telecaster using MTN 94 colours? Which clear did you use for that?

Thanks Island Moose, what sort of plastic spreader do you use? Like a squegee?

I've also heard about wiping the wood with a wet rag and waiting for it to dry to raise some of the wood grain to sand it finer, when should I do that if at all?

Thanks

Yes, a simple plastic squeegee. Raising the grain is not likely necessary, the sanding will deal with anything.

One thing you do need to be careful of is over sanding..
Basically when you go fine (400 - 1000) on bare timber you begin to polish the timber.
So as Gav said, no more than 400 grit for filled and painted timber.

I do damp rag after 400 grit sanding, but only when I am satisfied with the sanding.
A quick once over to raise all those pesky fibres that are laying down and then a light go over with 400 grit.

Also, check out Jarrods video on spray painting. Its in the video guides :)

For clear coats over the MTN94 I used acrylic auto clear. I have also used White Knight gloss acrylic over it, and this is my current default. It's good stuff and easy to use.

cheers,
Gav.

Ace! Thanks everyone.

Gents, I don't know how to ask this with out it sounding cheap...

Could you use spray cans to get a good finish on a body?
ie cut them back to a gloss finish etc.

I have a good airbrush and compressor for small work but not a gun and compressor to suit.
I am tossing up on the purchase of the gear for a couple of guitars ..

Neil

Absolutely you can. I did my jazzmaster in rattle can acrylic and it came up to a mirror gloss. Don't cheap out and buy the cheapest cans you find. I would recommend Anchor brand cans (acrylic) as their nozzle is the best I've found, or if you want to spend a bit more you could go up to Behlen (nitro).

Obviously the better your prep work, the better the result. Thin coats, wet sanding up to at least 2000 grit and patience will get you there.

Thanks for that, I'll look for those.

Cheers,
Neil

I will comment that the difference between a rattle can spray and an HVLP gun is very apparent. As you approach the bottom 1/3 of the rattle can it may start to spit, the pressure must drop and the paint isn't atomised as much as it is in the first several bursts. Having said this, many a home-built guitar has been successfully rattle-canned...but because I want to do several in years to come I did pick-up a good quality detail gun.

In about 2 weeks I'll have my paint booth done, and you can see the painting process unfold, you'll either learn what to do or what not to do...both of which will be useful to you.

Ultimately, the best results are gained with a LPHV touch up gun.
I prefer the gravity feed type, which you can get for around the $40-$60 mark from supercheap.
With compressors, you are best to get one with at least a 90litre tank. Again, supercheap have these for under $400.
Great investment as you will always find plenty of other jobs for the compressor :)

Thanks gents for the advice, I'll think it over while I wait for the first kit.

Neil what kit are you building ?
As others have said if you are going to be building a few axes them compressor/touch up gun will be worthwhile

Had a look at super cheap, and the big blue shed (have not tried the big green one yet) but super cheap did not have a 90 L tank model. Nothing that size under $400.00 ?? But I'll keep looking. They had 95LPM models but 60 L tank was the biggest they had.

First kit st-1 second I hope :) an LP style.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crusader

Had a look at super cheap, and the big blue shed (have not tried the big green one yet) but super cheap did not have a 90 L tank model. Nothing that size under $400.00 ?? But I'll keep looking. They had 95LPM models but 60 L tank was the biggest they had.

First kit st-1 second I hope :) an LP style.

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I think I got mine at Repco....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crusader

Had a look at super cheap, and the big blue shed (have not tried the big green one yet) but super cheap did not have a 90 L tank model. Nothing that size under $400.00 ?? But I'll keep looking. They had 95LPM models but 60 L tank was the biggest they had.

First kit st-1 second I hope :) an LP style.

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95LPM / 60 litre would be fine :)
I tend to go for the overkill with toys..errrm..tools :p

I've got a 100L v-twin with a 3HP motor, delivering 336l/min, I bought it from a Chinese tool importer for about $500NZD. I put a water separator on it, and it's perfect for spraying. I picked up a second hand professional HVLP touch up gun for another $60NZD. $560 is a lot of money, but air compressors are so useful, I use the dust nozzle all the time during sanding and prep.

Attachment 5884

Mine is a different colour, but they're all made to order by the same Chinese factory.

My advice? Check our alibaba...order direct:

http://offer.alibaba.com/trade/searc...OQF&moqt=MOQT1

Thanks Gents, I purchased a touch up gun I will get a compressor shortly.

OK, so next noob question, what paint and where do you get it?
for the spray gun setup...

Neil

Guitar Australia stock all your finish needs.
Nello is a cool dude and will be very helpful :)

I buy acrylic lacquer from an auto-parts store. Dulon (PPG) is made for DIY car painters. The debate between lacquer and enamel rages on internet forums. Car paint is pretty darn durable. You stay with one system from primer to clear coat.

Just one of many debates... :p

I think I will try one each way, One "Rattle Can" as you call them and one with the gun.
Just for experience.

Thank you all for your advice, it has been of help.

ok, does anyone know where I can find a colour chart for the Rothko and Frost products? I can't even find it on their site?

https://www.guitaraust.com.au/

Go to finishes, click on Rothco and the chart is there :)

Thank you... So embarrassed now, I search that site as well, must be going blind..

Ahahahaha!

Don't worry, I miss things all the time.
Especially if they are right in front of me.....

yeah I'm the same Crusader, can have only a few tools on the bench and still not find the tool you are after.
Same goes with webpages

Having seen your workbench it doesn't surprise me at all, Woks...

Finding anything other than beer bottless on your bench is a challenge :p

haha good one DB, well I have an excuse for that, the labels for the beer label axe have to come from somewhere and the new project we're starting tonight is beer bottle lamp shade so best I sample the bottles first !