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'A good template gives good results, a great template gives great results'...
Templates are your best friend, the end result rests on the accuracy of your templates.
To date, I have used plywood for my templates but now I use MDF.
I draw my design directly on the board, having established centrelines etc..
Then drill holes for jigsaw access and then cut the pup, control cavities first.
A better pic...
Next job is to tidy it up...
nice one DB, your template collection has grown from my weekend visit from the last visit.
More templates you have made less chance of having to make a new one !
nice DB, how to you finish up the the edges? Files? MDF can fray a bit. CA glue afterwards perhaps, but what is the process before that?
Ok, here it is with cavity routs cleaned up on the bobbin sander.
Next step is to supa goo the edgdes before final cleanup..
Great DB - thanks so much for this thread. Supergooing the edges is a genius move! Currently I am in the position that I have never made a template that hasn't been ruined the first time i got the router on to it. I'm learning very slowly. Any pointers on using your templates without stuffing them with the router would be greatly appreciated :).
cheers,
Gav.
@ Gav easy bro, just make sure all the edges of the templates have been super glued, make sure 100% of the bearing on the router bit is in contact with the edge of the template.
Worth checking regularly too. I've seen a body blank ruined because the clamp on the router height adjustment wasn't tight and the router tore a big chunk out of the blank
Yep. Guilty of that one too, Woks..Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
There are still a few things to do yet.
Clamp to body that was pre shaped by hand.
Rout outside profile.
Make a copy, with neck heel shape.
Supagoo this template...
These guys are my master templates, I will have copies for use in the Man Cave..
Is this because the MDF gives a better edge finish than the ply? what thickness of MDF, 1/2" or thinner?Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
Hey Franken, main reason is MDF once sealed is far more stable than ply.
I also find MDF much easier to work with than plywood, although it's 10x more messy and the dust is nasty to your lungs!
Yhep. It is important to work with it outside and to wear a dust mask...
How does that work with the supergoo? are you using a brushable or just a tube?
Have you made a template for the Maton BB1200 yet DB?
THAT's the one I want to see you build. (For obvious reasons...)
Oh yeah! Thats right.. must dig those plans out of the drawer, I need a new side project whilst I wait for some goodies to show up for builds on the go 😃
Keep me informed...
I use the super thin CA glue with a whip tip applicator.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
The whip tip allows you to apply with a brush stroke like motion.
How long does it take before it starts going 'off' and then too sticky to work with?Quote:
Originally Posted by dingobass
MDF soaks it up fast and it dries almost instantly.
Do it right and you should only need one application.
Ok.....I was going to replicate your fretless effort on Gavin's HB4 and wondered if that was done by using same technique?
When I do fingerboards I use an old credit card as a spreader.
So super poo in one hand, credit card in the other and squirt and spread..
Let it go off, sand flat and repeat.
On more open grained timber like Rosewood it may need three applications before you get a sooper smooth finish.
Sand it right up to 2500 for a glassy surface.
Thanks DB, appreciate your advice.