IB-5 bridge string spacing?

I was trying to compare the alignment of the bridge that I measured out with the photos of the IB-5 builds in the gallery.

I realised that each of the builds posted there have a different bridge to that I was supplied with.

The ones in the gallery appear to have turned up sides while the one I received is completely flat.

Attachment 2555

Also, when I look at the 12th and 24th fret dot inlays compared to the line of the string the dots on the neck I have seem to be further from the edges.

The resulting impression is that the line of my strings is too close to the edge of the neck.

I was wondering if anyone who had an IB-5 bridge could measure the string spacing - between saddle grooves.

Cheers.

Build images I was comparing to are in http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2212

An example, the strings and 24th fret dot inlays are like this in the gallery:

|o | | | o|

With the dots close to the line of the 1st and fifth string.

When I line up the bridge and lay a string along from the nut to the bridge I get more of a result like this:

| o| | |o |

With the dots closer to the 2nd and 4th string.

I think that's because the dots are further from the neck edge.

But at the same time, the strings look much closer to the neck edge than the examples in the gallery.

Hi Tindrrel. I'll measure my string spacing tomoz and post them here. It's likely the bridge of the current kit seems to have changed. I've just converted mine to a fretless. I did notice the string grooves in the saddles aren't centred on the old bridges.

Thanks wokka.

I guess the main concern I have is if the distance from 1st to 5th string is wider than previous builds without the fretboard being any wider. The strings seem precariously close to the ends of the fret wire.

Of course it could be an illusion of the mock build and all turn out ok, but checking the measurements will perhaps answer that.

Hi Tindrrel, distance between outside string grooves is about 64mm, so about 16mm between strings. Is your bridge wider than this ? would explain why the strings are close to the edge of the fingerboard.
Where did you place your bridge saddle distance ? was it at least the same distance nut to 12th fret as 12th fret to saddle ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hi Tindrrel, distance between outside string grooves is about 64mm, so about 16mm between strings. Is your bridge wider than this ? would explain why the strings are close to the edge of the fingerboard.

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Well that might explain it. 1st to 5th groove is 68mm. Measured from middle of the grooves. Puts the string spacing at 17mm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Where did you place your bridge saddle distance ? was it at least the same distance nut to 12th fret as 12th fret to saddle ?

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I haven't fixed it yet, because of the concern for the width. I've been putting it so the almost fully extended G string saddle is at the 34" mark. (17" from nut to 12th fret, 17" from 12th fret to saddle.)

Still seems like the bridge might be a bit wide for the neck.

The bridge measurement.

Attachment 2556

Taken over the left and right to relieve parallax error in the shot.
Attachment 2557
Attachment 2558

How the strings appear over the neck when pulled taut clamped to the headstock (the bridge in the measured position for scale length).
Attachment 2559

They look closer to the ends of the frets than in the shots in the gallery - just based on eyeballing them.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....

As Woks pointed out, the grooves on some of the saddles are offset.
Check that the correct saddles are in the right place, sometimes these can be installed incorrectly.

Next step is to try and clamp the bridge in place using two clamps and a chunk of timber spanning the width of the body.
Then re check the string to edge of fret board gap.
This should be 4 mmish on the B and G strings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

As Woks pointed out, the grooves on some of the saddles are offset.
Check that the correct saddles are in the right place, sometimes these can be installed incorrectly.

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No offsets. The saddles appear to be identical.

Checked with calipers. Groove the same distance from the ends of the saddle on all five of them.

Is that the problem? Has it been put together wrong? Should some of them be offset? (To be clear, they're all offset - by the same amount.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Next step is to try and clamp the bridge in place using two clamps and a chunk of timber spanning the width of the body.
Then re check the string to edge of fret board gap.
This should be 4 mmish on the B and G strings.

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That's effectively what the picture of the fretboard above is doing. I've just done it again though. The G string to edge starts out at about 4mm at the nut and stays about 4mm all the way to the body. The B string starts off about 2.5mm and opens up to about 3mm at the body.

I guess it just looks like more gap in the photos I was looking at. Which if the other style bridge is 4mm shorter across, it probably is.

OK.
I would say that the problem is with the nut.
Best way around that is to lash out and get yours truely to cut you a new one out of bone :)

You can order them through the website, G type and add a note to remind me what you need.
Measure the width of the nut and I can take it from there.

What is it that I need? Does the nut need to be cut with a smaller string spacing?

Shouldn't the bridge also have a smaller string spacing or else it will still widen out as it gets to the body?

Sounds to me the newer bridges are 4mm wider than the older ones hence the strings are 2ish mm closer to the fretboard edge. so the saddles are all touching each other with no gaps with your 68mm?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Sounds to me the newer bridges are 4mm wider than the older ones hence the strings are 2ish mm closer to the fretboard edge. so the saddles are all touching each other with no gaps with your 68mm?

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Yes. 68mm from 1st to 5th with the saddles pressed together.

Maybe DB has an old Bridge laying around. Sure that is the problem

If the G string is sitting 4mm off the edge, that is fine.

The B string at 2.5 is too close, so a new nut cut correctly will pull that back to 4mm.
Wont matter too much if it goes down to 3 at the end of the neck as it is unlikley you will use the B string that far down the neck often enough for it to be a drama...
So yes, a correctly cut nut should solve the problem.

You know what. I think I'm just making mountains out of molehills and optical illusions.

I think my measurement of the B string to the edge is fixed by moving the bridge over the smallest fraction.

There's even a lump under the bridge where the ground wire hole is drilled which might be affecting things.

I think I'll just build it as is with the stock parts and see what happens.

Need to figure out how to level that lump though. Sanding it down may work.

Tindrrel - sanding the lump will work - just spreads a little due to the low angle of the ground wire hole to make it through to the control cavity. The bridge is big enough to cover it.

Ahhhh, my bad... I had assumed that you had sanded the body.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Ahhhh, my bad... I had assumed that you had sanded the body.....

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I got the impression predrilling was better done before any sanding/finishing.

Tindrrel, I'd do that sand the lump in the bridge, make sure you can still push a wire through to the cavity, sand and finish the body/neck, screw the neck in place, then align the bridge as best you can giving the B string a bit more offset than the G string. You will have to compromise the outer string offsets as best you can. If the strings are too close to fret edges you may need DB to cut a nut with slightly closer spacings.
Start a build diary and we can answer any questions you have.

Tindrrel (what's your real name by the way ?) up to you pre-drilling before finishing the axe is good practice, in case you damage the surface in any way.
I'd drill your neck in place, put your B & G strings on and align the bridge. You will need to clamp the bridge as the string tension will want to pull it forward.
As DB previously said use 2 clamps and a piece of wood across the body to hold the bridge in place and drill the holes once the alignment looks good

I think I've got the alignment sorted now. I'll sand out the lump and check it again (clamping the strings and bridge).

I have a build diary. I seemed like a good idea at the time to ask this separately.

It took very little sanding to level the lump.

Checked the bridge position again and it hasn't changed, but at least now it doesn't rock. I had though the face of the body was simply slightly arched.

Strings still seem close to the edge to me, but then when I compare to a factory built p-bass it isn't that different.