"Starcaster" Build

Hi gang,

A new build. Freshly arrived today - super fast shipping.

It looks great.

I've never done a hollow body and it looks like there might be a cap of some sort on it. There are a few machine marks I will need to sand out.

I've attached pictures. Should I sand them, try hide them, or should I fill them? The more obvious flaw in the photos is above the surface of the guitar (maybe glue residue or another machine mark). The other is a scratch that is maybe half a millimetre down and goes for about 8 cm.

Whats the best way to get rid of the scratch? And whats the risk of going through the cap getting rid of the other marks? There's also some separation around the neck pocket: is this a problem? The body feels solid around there...

PS, is this a set neck or a bolt on neck? It seems like a set neck but I figured I'd ask first.

I asked PBG a few times to see if they could get me a starcaster body in. They did it. And it's great. Thanks guys.

Thanks

You could try a damp rag and a warm iron to raise the scratch.
Just be careful not to over heat as the glue holding the cap might let go....

On another note, I have sourced some very tasty timbers for your other project..
Just waiting for it to come out of the drying kiln and pricing...

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Originally Posted by dingobass

On another note, I have sourced some very tasty timbers for your other project..
Just waiting for it to come out of the drying kiln and pricing...

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Awesome can't wait. Hopefully it doesn't break the "build guitars" fund in the process!

Whats a good grit to start on on the top of this? Straight to 400? Or is this a "don't sand you're you'll go through the cap/binding" kind of thing?

Yep, I would go to 320 or 400.

I went to 400 on my LP build a couple of years back, never went through the cap! This is going t obe a cool build methinks, any colours planned yet or any upgrades?

First cab off the ranks with the Starcaster! Looking forward to seeing this progress. Looks like the cap is symmetrical? Should come up a treat.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by keloooe

I went to 400 on my LP build a couple of years back, never went through the cap! This is going t obe a cool build methinks, any colours planned yet or any upgrades?

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I didn't get any hardware with it. I'm trying to see if Fender WRHBs fit, otherwise I might have to shop around for some PUPs.

Otherwise nothing planned.

Planning for a blue guitar. The last one was supposed to be blue but came out green.

Fender WRHB's are larger than a standard humbucker, so unless the body is routed for the specific size or you can find a way to enlarge the rout, it unfortunately won't fit. Blue should look sweet!

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

First cab off the ranks with the Starcaster! Looking forward to seeing this progress. Looks like the cap is symmetrical? Should come up a treat.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

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Yeah I am pretty sure the way they did it was they sliced the veneer off the same block back to back and then flipped one of them upside down. Bookmatching or whatever its called, they're pretty damn close.

Others will likely finish before me - I'll be building it with my girlfriend and I have a bit of research to do regarding parts.

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Originally Posted by keloooe

Fender WRHB's are larger than a standard humbucker, so unless the body is routed for the specific size or you can find a way to enlarge the rout, it unfortunately won't fit. Blue should look sweet!

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Yah, I'm giving it a test tomorrow with a local guy who has some. Otherwise it's something a bit different. Haven't quite decided if it'll be a WRHB clone that is standard humbucker size or if I'll do something different/more modern. I am pretty sure there is a solid centre block in this kit of some variety - so I may even end up opening the route a bit (translation: getting someone to do it for me)

Yeah, wide ranges are about 25% bigger than standard size. Check these though http://www.guitarfetish.com/Vintage-...yle_c_175.html

WR pups sound amazing.

The kit looks amazing. I'm very jealous!! Saving my pennies for a starcaster of my very own. In the meantime I'll be keeping a watchful eye on your build!

cheers,
Gav.

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Originally Posted by Nickosaurus

WR pups sound amazing.

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Yah, I haven't really decided if I want to go for the vintage type WR or go full modern with it... :)

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

Saving my pennies for a starcaster of my very own.

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Who isn't?

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Originally Posted by keloooe

Who isn't?

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Me... ;)

Here's the back. Come to think of it there will be quite a bit of blank space on the guitar, so I might end up doing something a little fancier with it....

maybe.

certainly looks like it has a centre block.

Great looking kit, this will look good in blue

All sanded back. The obvious white machine marks are gone. I couldn't fix the scratch - it's now level, but it looks a bit lighter. It should go with the stain on, I think. If not I'll work some things out.

First stain will likely go on saturday night/morning - most likely black to start and then I'll sand it off. Tell me now before it's too late if you can't really do that for grain popping on these veneers! If I can get half or more of it off, that would be good.

Can someone link me to the thread that tells me how to set neck angle (Z axis)? Pic related. I think it's way off and I don't know how to fix it - a shim? How do I measure it? Do I have to put the bridge on first?

Cheers.

For popping the grain you just need to make sure you dont go through the ultra thin cap, be very careful about how much sanding you do and the grits you use!

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Originally Posted by keloooe

For popping the grain you just need to make sure you dont go through the ultra thin cap, be very careful about how much sanding you do and the grits you use!

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Is there enough to use black and then get most of it off again? I've never popped grain and definitely never on a cap before. I don't want a black guitar and would much rather have less grain than get rid of the grain by sanding it off!

I rounded off the headstock a bit. Gave my best shot at the old bevel in the real starcaster one. Can't do it without a router, but I gave it a good crack. Little bit of tear out/scratching because my wood rasp is coarse and blunt, so it was difficult to sand all the scratches out. Going to give it some more sanding later tonight after I head to the shop and get some glue and maybe some timbermate.

Here's a pic. You won't see this bad boy again until it is stained.

I'll post some pics of the update on the gaps when I fill them just so I can see how well I did looking back

When dying the cap black, you might try doing a first pass with clean water first, then the black. The theory is that the figure soaks up more liquid because the figure grains are longer. The more dye-less liquid you can fill the other (non-figure) grains up with before applying the black, the more contrast you'll get without the need to sand quite as much. Just a suggestion. I have used this technique successfully in the past when popping figure without even the need for a sand back. Just be careful not to saturate the cap as this causes its own issues.

cheers,
Gav.

I think this is the thread you need.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=1895

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

When dying the cap black, you might try doing a first pass with clean water first, then the black. The theory is that the figure soaks up more liquid because the figure grains are longer. The more dye-less liquid you can fill the other (non-figure) grains up with before applying the black, the more contrast you'll get without the need to sand quite as much. Just a suggestion. I have used this technique successfully in the past when popping figure without even the need for a sand back. Just be careful not to saturate the cap as this causes its own issues.

cheers,
Gav.

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Didn't know that, thanks Gav

Sweet tip Gav, if I can find my cloth, I'll give it a go tonight.

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Originally Posted by ihasmario

Can someone link me to the thread that tells me how to set neck angle (Z axis)? Pic related. I think it's way off and I don't know how to fix it - a shim? How do I measure it? Do I have to put the bridge on first?

Cheers.

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You won't know if the neck angle is right or wrong without the bridge. Try installing the bridge with Scott's plastic tubing method so it can be removed easily again before you stain. You may find that the combination of arched top and tuneamatic bridge means that this neck angle is correct, or close to.

First pass. Grain pop is so-so. Not bad for first try, I guess. Still wet

That looks great. This is going to be a very unique starcaster.

What did you use for the blue color? Is it Colortone? Looks awesome!

cheers,
Gav.

It's good Mario!
The grain will pop a lot more when the gloss goes on

Nice work, enjoy the flame popping before your very eyes when top gloss is applied!

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Gav, I used ink.

I used the incorrect type of ink for the black, and it's biting me now. IMHO the body is very dark. And I am not sure I am game enough to take more of the veneer off to lighten it. I think staining black first was a mistake for my skill level.

Here's the front of the guitar as it looks now and the back of the neck. I blackenned the fretboard and stained the headstock. I will need to darken the front headstock if I can't lighten the body.

Now that it is more, but not completely dry the body looks boring IMHO. I'll try take some off and add some more blue when it's dry. I can't really remember if colours get less vibrant when they dry, but it's not a very lively looking top right now.

The question now is - Chrome or black hardware?

I think it looks great.
If you think it's a bit dark - chrome hardware

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Originally Posted by stan

I think it looks great.
If you think it's a bit dark - chrome hardware

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I think that's a good call. All I need to decide on now is whether or not I'll get cheaper hardware (about $30/piece) with a more vintage look or more expensive hardware with a futuristic look.

:)

Here's a dirty comparison with the hardware

I like the chrome and vintage all the way!
But, your guitar, make it the coolest starcaster you can that suits you

Yep the colour always drabs down when the dye dries. It will be much more vibrant once the clear goes on. I reckon it's looking great. Thing I have found with the blue is that it looks really dark inside and really vibrant out in the sun.

cheers,
Gav.

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

Yep the colour always drabs down when the dye dries. It will be much more vibrant once the clear goes on. I reckon it's looking great. Thing I have found with the blue is that it looks really dark inside and really vibrant out in the sun.

cheers,
Gav.

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Found the exact same thing

Think you got the colour bang on and with clear will really come out. love the headstock fade

Sanding is slow and painful. I injured my fingers recently, so it's even more slow and painful than usual. It's going to be difficult to sand back the black on the sides.

She's shaping up though.

I'm going to change the colour of the binding, I think. Possibly to silver. And maybe add a bit of glamour to the colour, it can't be a "Starcaster" without trying to add some stars now can it? ;)

I think I possibly messed up matching the neck and body colours as good as I want to - but it'll be easier to tell once the blue goes on the back on the weekend. There's just a band of it on now, just to test a sunbursty thing I might put on the front.

The hardware is ordered, sans knobs and pots.


The plastic nut seems pretty well glued in there- how do I get it out?

I just bought some of these Stars for a project I'm working on Abalone And Mother Of Pearl
Sorry about quality of pics taken with my phone

Hey Mario, I think that the colour of the wet stain is normally the colour of the finished product when the clear goes on, so it will look pretty cool with chrome hardware, I think the black just can't be seen as well as the chrome.

And stars are a must!

Its looking great Mario. When the gloss goes on it should lift the colour a bit. Never really wanted a Starcaster..... until now!!

Can't wait to see it with the hardware.

cheers
rob