Print An Image On Wax Proof Paper And Transfer To Your Guitar

Saw this used on wood thought it might be usable on guitars

http://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/ho...aper-transfer/

ah , clever.
I presume you print it backwards on the paper and then transfer it to the timber through pressure?
The paper simply "holding" an unset image and you transfer the "damp" image to the timber?

Pretty much, Stan.

This takes me back to Art School and Print Making....

You just have to be carefull not to let the paper touch anything as it comes out of the printer..
It works even better if you can print onto acetate or the backing paper off sticky lables as this is much stiffer.

Then you need to get it in place fast, and whilst holding your tongue correctly and standing on one leg use a credit card to scrape the paper and thus transferring the image.
Another way is to get a print makers hard rubber roller, this gives an even better result.

Once again, Kimball has found another great snippet of info :)

Now I'm planning yet ANOTHER kit to build to slap this onto..... Dangit GAS!

ok cool, thanks DB and Kimball

Great idea hey. I use the acetate paper to do the hs logos and on the back of the neck on my guitars. Attachment 2341Attachment 2342

Looks great Andrew, Never seen this used before .So was interesting find .Will certainly give it a go. Do you find its U.V stabil
Best wishes
Kimball

Yeah mate no issues as yet. I've used it under tru oil and 2k clears as well. Secret is to let it dry overnight before proceeding. I tape the transfer down over where it's going, then use a credit card to push the ink of the acetate onto the wood. Used wax paper once but the results weren't as dark and defined as acetate.

Nice one Andrew :)

Thanks mate. Super easy and the results are pretty nice. Best thing is super thin finishes with no ridges from decals.

So just keep the paper from moving and squish it as much as possible to transfer, then let it dry overnight and then clear over it?

Yeah mate. When I tape it make sure it's nice and tight so there is no chance the paper can move even a fraction of a mm or it'll smudge and look shite. Then dry over night, or for at least a few hours and get your clear on. I've only used this technique on bare unsealed wood, it won't work on a sealed wood I don't think. Next test is to see if the transfer works over a stain or dye.

Yeah I'm interested to see if it will work over DT....

I don't see why it wouldn't work over the stain or intensifying coats. Just as long as the ink has something to soak in to.

Interested in this idea. Was wondering if anyone who tried it could fill in some gaps for me.

What sort of printer do you use? Regular inkjet?
Do you need to do the application immediately after printing? Is that how come it is still transferrable?
Anyone tried it on stain or applied stain after transfer?

This is how I put the logo design on my headstock. I did some poking around, and one site had a great suggestion about taking label paper and taking all the labels off, and printing on the non-stick side of the paper. The label backing is nice and thick and runs through the printer really well. Got to work fast because it only transfers wet ink. Practice on some scrap wood first. Easy to smudge. I put mine on top of the chemical wash, and it came through fine. It is kind of light. I just used it as a guide for painting over it. I set my print settings for draft so it would be really light but you might want to set it for high-quality if you are doing a complete transfer, so you get more ink.

Another way is to do it is with waterslide decal paper and run it through a laser printer.
That's what I'm going to do with my champagne gecko build (TL1)

This is cool. Might be exactly what I need! Transferring on the bare wood seems to give that old faded look. I wonder if the result would be richer in color on primed wood. Might be a bit tricky to avoid smudging.

Excellent idea to use it as a guide for paint.

Going to resurrect this older thread with another option.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NjYbAAQ4vw

Not sure how readily available these products are here in Australia, but I would imagine art supply shops may have something similar for someone to experiment with.