Nut sizes/cutting your nuts

So like nearly a year after finishing my kit, im looking to go back and sort the neck out (cos i didnt as i was building it-i got too excited and wanted to finish it up so skipped a few steps). I was always planning to cut a bone nut, as a learning excercise, so really just needed to check what size i should be getting for the pitbull necks? (its a tele)

Also, what glue should i use to affix said nut to the neck?

any other tips for fitting and cutting a nut would be appreciated too, ive already made my own nut files ages back using pablos sneaky guide

Hey Benno, I can hook you up with a nut blank to suit your tele neck.
Flick me an email at dingobass@pitbullguitars and we can get the party started :)

DB's nuts are going to be top class, so it'd be worthwhile considering that. Alternatively - look at the StewMac / Realparts websites at the "Fender" style nuts - they should be oversized so you can sand them down. You'll need one with a flat bottom - the groove for the nut is flat - not radiussed like the neck. Be prepared for some mess and smell - working with bone is pretty feral.

Oh - and to glue the nut in - superglue - StewMac #20 for preference. DB swears on 2 dots of glue - after all the strings will hold the nut against the neck - the glue is to make sure it stays there.

what about...pva wood glue from the big green shed? haha

im thinking of ordering another kit soon when i get paid, but im hesitant to spend too much on guitar specific materials cos i wont be building enough kits to justify it im afraid

I use regular old super glue, two small dots.

Probably the wrong advice but I make mine a nice tight fit and don't use any glue at all. I have had no troubles with them so far.

Keep clear of the PVA from the big green shed. Just not built for guitars. There was someone on the forum a good 12 or so months ago who glued his neck in with PVA. Gave it a couple of days, applied strings and therefore tension and then noticed his action getting worse, etc.... Turns out the glue had given up the ghost. Easy to fix, but a pain. Better stuff is the glue PBG supply or get some Titebond from Masters / your local woodworking store (Carbatec). Strangely it's cheaper and works better - maybe it's just because it's a name brand markup... Shouldn't set you back too much (~$5 from memory) and it can be used for anything wood related. It's also a lot more stable over time. Aquadere (PVA) tends to go to water when heated > 30 degrees.

With that monologue - cheap tube of superglue and a couple of dots best outcome. Easy to remove if you ever need to and easy to do.

Ben - just re looking at your post. Understand not wanting to buy too much guitar specific stuff. Best bet - if you are wanting a spot on outcome is the DBmeister. Nuts are a bit of a work of art and easy to get wrong, especially without the right tools. DB has the know how and the right tools to do it right first time and if he gets it wrong (not that I think that would ever happen), the guts to own up to it and make it right. When you look at the tools to do a nut right - basically $15 per file and you need 4 (anyone with class would only be building basses ;) ) then you need the nut ($6) and it's nice to have a few other tools (radiussed blocks, depth gauges for the strings, etc) that DB has. When you add up the costs, it quickly comes down to if you're doing lots, get the tools. If not, it may be worthwhile (i.e., cheaper) getting a pro to do them. That said - I've done a couple and not had a total fail (yet) and would hate to dissuade someone who's keen to give it a go - just conscious that if cost is an issue, while it may seem a lot to get a pro to do it for you, at times it's worth it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brendan

DB's nuts are going to be top class, so it'd be worthwhile considering that. Alternatively - look at the StewMac / Realparts websites at the "Fender" style nuts - they should be oversized so you can sand them down. You'll need one with a flat bottom - the groove for the nut is flat - not radiussed like the neck. Be prepared for some mess and smell - working with bone is pretty feral.

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Just to second that I've used my first DB bone nut on recent SG-1F and it is without doubt one of the best 'bang for your buck' upgrades you can do. My completed kit builds will all eventually receive the same. All new ones to have one.

yeah i dropped him an email and got my guitar provisionally booked in for a visit to the db mancave soon. cheers all

Great news. I don't think you'll be unhappy with the result.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

Just to second that I've used my first DB bone nut on recent SG-1F and it is without doubt one of the best 'bang for your buck' upgrades you can do. My completed kit builds will all eventually receive the same. All new ones to have one.

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Absolutely - always go the DB bone nut upgrade

Here's some Nut Slotting files in handy form . May look expensive but when you consider there's 16 different gauges
From 0.010"/0.25mm through to 0.056"/1.42mm
http://crimsonguitars.com/shop/guita...slotting-files

Nut Slotting File Multi-tool - Hand Made Luthiers Tool

16 different gauged nut slotting files in 1 tool.
covers most common gauges of guitar strings.
ergonomic handle
Hand finished with the Crimson guitars logo engraved.
Hand notched files hardened and tempered
will happily cut anything up to brass or aluminium with ease
0.010" / 0.25mm, 0.012" / 0.30mm, 0.013" / 0.33mm, 0.017" / 0.43mm, 0.020" / 0.51mm, 0.022" / 0.55mm, 0.024" / 0.61mm, 0.026" / 0.66mm, 0.028" / 0.71mm, 0.032" / 0.81mm; 0.035" / 0.89mm, 0.042" / 1.07mm, 0.046" / 1.17mm, 0.050" / 1.27mm, 0.053" / 1.34mm, 0.056" / 1.42mm


Check out our YouTube channel for more videos on how to get the most out of your Crimson Guitars precision hand tools as well as a myriad of guitar building tutorials and demo videos.

We ship worldwide - no exceptions!

I took DB's advice on the nuts. I used brushable superglue, put a swipe on the nut slot stick the nut on and hold for a few minutes.
Don't be worried about only putting a few dots of glue on as mine still come off with a little wack fron the fret leveling bar.
The bigest issue I have had with putting my nuts in the right place is getting the slot to line up properly after I have trimmed all the old furry bits off with the file.

PK snigger snigger