Cryogenic treatment of metal guitar parts

Has anybody heard of cryogenic treatment of guitar parts for tone and toughness?
I have a relative who can get this done for me.
Like all the other discussions on what enhances tone, I'm sure there is a degree of myth and reality to it all.
Tuners, Bridges, Strings, you name it, they can all get the treatment
What are the opinions here?

Here is an excerpt from wiki for those unfamiliar:
Cryogenic hardening is a cryogenic heat treating process where the material is cooled to approximately −185 °C (−301 °F), usually using liquid nitrogen. It can have a profound effect on the mechanical properties of certain steels, provided their composition and prior heat treatment are such that they retain some austenite at room temperature. It is designed to increase the amount of martensite in the steel's crystal structure, increasing its strength and hardness, sometimes at the cost of toughness. Presently this treatment is being practiced over tool steels, high-carbon, and high-chromium steels to obtain excellent wear resistance. Recent research shows that there is precipitation of fine carbides (eta carbides) in the matrix during this treatment which imparts very high wear resistance to the steels

Only one way to find out Stan :)

Hardening the components theoretically will increase highs and articulation. (I could explain why and have done it on many youtube comments with people explaining that body wood has zero affect on tone, etc.) Its basically constructive interference being induced along the string in the high frequencies and better transfer of percussive sounds. In short. However, how much this affects your tone in practice is unknown, it definitely does affect your tone that way, but if its microscopically different such that you need a stethoscope and a graphic sound representation to notice it or its audible is another question.

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Only one way to find out Stan :)

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True DB, but the only real way would be before and after tests, but I will be putting in stuff I havent used before, so no real comparison.

Even the NASCAR guys use it for engine parts and wiring.

Dont really know , as far as guitar is concerned, how much is snake oil and how much is fact

Personally, i seriously doubt it will do much at all...
Very few Guitar hardware manufactures use high grade metals...

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Personally, i seriously doubt it will do much at all...
Very few Guitar hardware manufactures use high grade metals...

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Which opens up the whole tone debate thing again: bone nuts vs steel vs brass vs unobtainium, yet bridges, stop tails and saddles are cheap metal...

Nah wouldn't work, the metals are not high in the grade to have a total effect. Though I will change my opinion if I hear sound clips of it!

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Originally Posted by stan

Which opens up the whole tone debate thing again: bone nuts vs steel vs brass vs unobtainium, yet bridges, stop tails and saddles are cheap metal...

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Bone nuts do give a much warmer tone than steel or brass, tried it out and can confirm it..
Brass does give a rather nice bright tone, works really well for slide set ups.
Steel works a treat on Dobro type Guitars, ads to that amazing jangly sound..

A floyd or any other locking trem uses a metal nut and they work great

You know. Fitted four different nuts to my Precision Bass not because I wanted to but looking for that sound you know the very elusive sound we all try and find . Brass , Bone , Graphite, and Tusq . The best one for my bass was the tusq . One of my other bases I started this time with tusq this time the bone sounded better . I personally believe it's down to the body and neck wood .just use the best nut material that suits the guitar your currently working on . And do try more than one i think you'll be surprised . Some of the best Antique Gibson Les Pauls revered because of there tone have Nylon nuts on so I guess as I say use what's best for your guitar.

You know. Fitted four different nuts to my Precision Bass not because I wanted to but looking for that sound you know the very elusive sound we all try and find . Brass , Bone , Graphite, and Tusq . The best one for my bass was the tusq . One of my other bases I started this time with tusq this time the bone sounded better . I personally believe it's down to the body and neck wood .just use the best nut material that suits the guitar your currently working on . And do try more than one i think you'll be surprised . Some of the best Antique Gibson Les Pauls revered because of there tone have Nylon nuts on. So I guess as I say use what's best for your guitar.

true DB and Kimball, guess the point I was making was that bone vs metal etc for nuts seems to make a difference, but we put up with cheap (in quality ) hardware that surely must make a difference too....

This is my opinion only not Pitbulls .Yes it does make a difference , a good bridge and good tuners are really important . If a guitar goes out of tune repeatedly . We stop playing it. But I've just bought some Schaller Locking tuners every time I put a new E or B string on it would cut straight through the strings after breaking 4 strings in 40 mins . Even though I applied hardly any pressure to the locking knob. I contacted the people I bought them off Realtone . Not a bit interested. In truth they where about as good customer service wise as a chocolate teapot saying all locking tuners do that . So contacted Schaller they sent out a new set solved the problem straight away. I've normally found the service at realtone really good. But this was first time I've contacted customer service . Now they've lost a customer just because well in truth they couldn't be bothered and where happy for Schaller to deal with the problem ,we'll be cause they couldn't be bothered. So even good manufacturers sometimes make bad products..
But because of Schallers great customer service I will buy there products in the future. Stan I would say put the best hardware on a guitar when you can afford it . Currently I have 5 string bass with great hardware on it Babicz bridge Schaller Tuners emg pickups .
But bass is dull and lifeless , still trying to work out why? Very little output .muddy its a fretless

Hey Kimball, its probably the EMG's.... They just are not as good as they used to be unfortunately.
Last few I used had the same problem, weak muddy sound with no oomph at all..
Still searching for the best value for money pups, beginning to think I might be better off winding my own.

Bit surprised at the lack of care from Realtone.. Did you speak to Ian? I have always found him to be very good to deal with..

Hey Db , yes I did it was Ian who told me this always happens with locking tuners .it was then I sent pics to schaller he was upset that they might not be genuine . So then I told schaller that there from realtone he requested more pics . Then I contacted Ian he contacted schaller . As I Said in the end Ian wasn't prepared to do anything but Schaller stepped up and replaced them. So the warranty from realtone is not evident or a reality. As I've said before always found realtone fine. But never had to deal with a warranty issue or customer service issue until this happened .its not as if there cheap tuners . In ref to the Emgs jeez what a disappointment . I should of just put some John Bensons in . John being a bass player himself .i love the pickups he made for my Precision bass .He asked me what sound was I was after and crafted me a set of Pino Palladino style great sound punchy great control with tone control too. Being a Bass player yourself give him a go, you won't regret it .

Cheers Kimball, I will give JB a try.. Working up a design for an upright that needs some punchy pups :)
With the EMG's, it seems you have to fork out for the preamp to get the most out of them... More fiddly wiring... Just what I dont want!
Pity about Realtone though....