Replicating an aged poly finish

Ok, so I have an idea that's been floating around in my head for a while to build a Hetfield inspired white explorer. I'm not looking to replicate a guitar, but more to build a guitar that could have been. I would like to get a finish such that it could be a well used guitar from the '80s. Seems I can't find anyone trying to do this, it's all heavily reliced, abused, and mostly nitro style wear. I don't want that, and I don't want a fake looking, overdone, abused style relic (I already have an ESP Truckster...!). Contrary to what I've read some say, my older white poly finished guitars have yellowed significantly (though not as much as nitro). I also do have areas that have gradually worn down so that the wood colour shows through (poly doesn't wear that way I have read several times) but chipping is more common. It seems this kind of 'aging' is not popular, but it fits the vibe of the instrument I want to create. Below I've added some pictures of guitars of mine that show the kind of aging/used finish I'd like to achieve.

Cheap Yamaha strat copy, mid to late 90s, I bought it near new in close to mint condition for $40 at a garage sale in ~99-2000. It's been my beater ever since, has travelled all around Australia in a soft case, and across the world (body separated from neck in a suitcase!). Never deliberately abused, but not had a protected life either.

Note the whiter area below the bridge. There was a sticker there for ~4 years (poly does yellow!). It's much whiter again under the pickguard (which was also white when I bought it!).:

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...pseadd31d4.jpg

Body wear and damage:

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8aa31424.jpg

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps162035f0.jpg

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps881ca0a2.jpg

To be continued...

My bass. A pawn shop find, no name 'Torch' brand, best guess mid to late 80s, but I've only owned it ~3-4 years, most wear created by previous owners. I can tell you that the poly finish here has yellowed a lot too, it's a bright white under the bridge/in the cavities.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1019af01.jpg

Finish worn thin beneath bridge:

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d25f49e.jpg

Similar wear/chipping/scratching on rear to the strat:

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps566858a3.jpg

My Charvel 750xl. 1989, bought by me ~2000. Almost all the wear is from previous owners, as I really like this guitar and have taken a lot of care with it. While it was never a bright white, it has yellowed a huge amount in the time I've owned it.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...psd51f2069.jpg

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46333f71.jpg

So, does anyone have any advice/ideas on how to age a finish like this, to get the yellowing and wear? Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot too, or that I should just play it for 20 years, I don't mind! :) Just thought there might be some good ideas and advice out there.

It all depends on what type of finish you are wanting to use... Acrylics can easily be aged by adding a few drops of "dirty" yellow pigment to the paint.

If you want to use Dingotone, it is much the same process... Ask DB nicely and he can age up the top coat slightly :)

If you are after that beautiful crackle effect as well, (on acrylic finish) it is a simple matter of attacking the finish coat with a xacto knife, basically drawing the crackle onto to the surface.. Then rub the approprite coloured stain into the cracks, clean up the excess and then apply one or two more coats of your tinted clear.

BTW, it is most probably the white base coats that have yellowed.... White poly is renowned for going yellow over time when exposed to UV light..

Thanks for your reply db! I thought you might be quite against this type of finish, but your knowledge and experience is much appreciated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

It all depends on what type of finish you are wanting to use... Acrylics can easily be aged by adding a few drops of "dirty" yellow pigment to the paint.

If you want to use Dingotone, it is much the same process... Ask DB nicely and he can age up the top coat slightly :)

If you are after that beautiful crackle effect as well, (on acrylic finish) it is a simple matter of attacking the finish coat with a xacto knife, basically drawing the crackle onto to the surface.. Then rub the approprite coloured stain into the cracks, clean up the excess and then apply one or two more coats of your tinted clear.

BTW, it is most probably the white base coats that have yellowed.... White poly is renowned for going yellow over time when exposed to UV light..

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Interesting thoughts. Is the poly type finish something that I can do at home, then perhaps leave in the sun a lot to start it fading? I do have the ability/equipment to spray, I have sprayed a couple of cars. What type of paints are used on these guitars? How would acrylic paints compare in appearance and aging? Funnily enough, I would have read a dozen forum posts at least in the last few days while looking for info on this from people saying adamantly that "White poly does not yellow". Gotta love internet experts sometimes, thanks for your input and sharing your experience with this. :)

I like your thoughts on the crackle finish too, I'm not sure how it was done in the factory as it is quite different in appearance to most of the crackle effect paints, with the big slabs of colour and thin straight cracks. Not something I'm looking to do for this project, but I had considered a red and black crackle for the V I am building, but have been unable to find a product that gives me the effect I want except for in the UK, and they haven't replied to my emails asking about shipping.

The best person to ask re: applications etc of poly / acrylic paints would be Jarrod.. Jarrod is far more experienced and knows a heck of a lot more than i do about these things..
But i do know that leaving your axe in the sun will basically destroy it!

Back in my art school days we learned that crackle finishes can be achieved by painting Lean over Fat.
What this means is a thin coat applied over a thicker coat after the thicker coat has skinned over.

As the thin coat dries faster, as the underlying thicker coat dries and shrinks slightly it casues the thin coat to crack.

DB is an expert in how to relic an axe. Just tie the body up to your bike and ride around on some rough gravel for 5 minutes. Then drop the body from a height. Repeat steps till it looks beaten up haha

I've heard you can force checking by rapid temperature changes. After your clear coat has cured, chuck it in the freezer over night then put it in the sun to warm up. Mind you, this was referring to nitro, so nor sure if poly will react the same way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

The best person to ask re: applications etc of poly / acrylic paints would be Jarrod.. Jarrod is far more experienced and knows a heck of a lot more than i do about these things..
But i do know that leaving your axe in the sun will basically destroy it!

Back in my art school days we learned that crackle finishes can be achieved by painting Lean over Fat.
What this means is a thin coat applied over a thicker coat after the thicker coat has skinned over.

As the thin coat dries faster, as the underlying thicker coat dries and shrinks slightly it casues the thin coat to crack.

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Ok, thanks. Don't worry, no way I would be leaving a strung and tensioned guitar out in the sun! But leaving a bare body and or neck in the sun shouldn't cause any dramas really should it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

DB is an expert in how to relic an axe. Just tie the body up to your bike and ride around on some rough gravel for 5 minutes. Then drop the body from a height. Repeat steps till it looks beaten up haha

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Haha thanks, I was waiting for that. :) I'm not normally a fan of fake 'relics' either, but somehow it seems right for this project. Hell, if I could pick up an 80s Gibson explorer in white without pickguard for not much money then I would... Odds of that happening?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pablopepper

I've heard you can force checking by rapid temperature changes. After your clear coat has cured, chuck it in the freezer over night then put it in the sun to warm up. Mind you, this was referring to nitro, so nor sure if poly will react the same way.

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Thanks, yes I've read that. Checking/cracking, while it can happen with poly, is less common and is probably not needed for the look / era I'm shooting for.

The main thing I guess I'm looking for is a) how do I replicate the paint finish (thickness, appearance, etc) and b) how do I then age/yellow/fade the paint? I can probably work out how to damage/chip it if I still feel the need at that point!

Thanks for the input and help guys.

Re leaving the body in the sun... DONT DO IT!

The body will be guaranteed to warp, crack, twist and self destruct!