Entwistle HV58 (N) & HV58 (B)

Well, isn't it great now Christmas is over and everything is back to normal.

No kit, but a couple of pups', which I will put to good use.
I have a guitar that was "scratch" built for me in exchange for an 1960 Hofner Golden. I was checking them out on the net one night and decided to sign to a guest book and mentioned that I had a Golden. The author of the site (in England) e-mailed me and asked a few questions. A few days later I received an e-mail from a guy in Canada, who said that he wanted more information.
Sent him a few photos, including the extensive damage, and a pic of the serial number. Anyway, he ended up building the guitar and every thing turned out ok. Steve did wright a book on Hofner Guitars after I sent it but think he didn't have it repaired in time to include it.

I used the pups' to use in Ash, my last build, and put the Pitbull pups in the above guitar.
The purpose of this exercise is to replace them with the Entwistle. With the 4 conductor wiring I (hope)I can wire in an 3 sound switch for each pup (like the back pup in Ash) and maybe have an individual volume on each pup with no tone control, and no selector switch, just use the volume controls to switch / blend. but that is a little way off and will worry about that when the time comes.

The project guitar is a solid, one piece mahogany body, the neck is from a Goden multiac. The neck is wide and the machines are of the classical style, which looks ok but there is a tuning problem, which is a bit of a problem some times. Maybe I'll get around to fixing this one day.

Might get around to starting on this in a few weeks, but, might start sooner.

Rick.

looks cool the scratch build Rick, so what are the pickups in it now ? So you are putting the PBG ones into this ?

Hi Wok, it has the pitbull pups' in it at present, want to try the Entwistle out. from what I have seen on the net, they should do the trick.
Will just muck around and see what it finishes like. Might give it some polly, just to shine things up. Doing this "blind" so will start and see what happens.

Rick.

ah ok got it Rick, I was thinking the Entwistles were going in ur ash LP, I got confused

This morning ripped everything off gave the face a light rub and a light spray of polyurethane. Think, although it looks nice and shiny now,
it wont make it look any better in the long run.

Been thinkingThis morning ripped everything off gave the face a light rub and a light spray of polyurethane. Think, although it looks nice and shiny now,
it wont make it look any better in the long run.

Been thinking about the headstock, might change it to a conventional style. I can fill the slots with fiber-glass and wood, re-drill the holes for the machine heads, but there are a few problems with that. I still want to use the same tuners (which are expensive {$250} Schaler gold), and the thickness of the head stock will hide the "soft" part (that is giving me so much trouble tuning) and I would need to drill another hole for the string(s), which could be a little difficult with out proper tools. I have a friend who owns an engineering business who said I could use his work-shop, but that is a bit of a hassle. (too far to travel). So there is a good chance I'll be leaving it as it is and put up with the tuning difficulties. Decisions decisions.

Three pics

#1 : In bits

#2 : Sanded

#3 : one coat.

I personally wouldn't want to change the headstock. It's cool like it is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fretworn

I personally wouldn't want to change the headstock. It's cool like it is.

---

You are right, Fret, but it's difficult to have to keep tuning until the strings "seat" into the string post (days). I could cut the "soft" section off leaving only about 6mm for the string to wrap on to. This is one option, maybe I can turn up some little bushes to fit over the post. that would be ideal. Might look at Bunnings they may have ready made bushed that size.

I do really like it as is so you have convinced me to try to find another option.

Rick.

WOW! Hot, but wanted to get my Dermal set up so made a stand so it can be used with the flexible drive. the tool has to be kept higher that the work so got that done. All that is needed is to clamp it to the bench. Just used it to muck about a bit and think it is goung to be ideal for little fiddly bits, like drilling holes for the machine headsand other stuff.

Gave the body a quick sand with 600 and a quick cote of polyurethane, unfortunately there is a few spots that will need a sand and respray, will look at that in a few days.

The "funny" areas are easily spotted in the pics'.

Back, right hand side where the outline comes down from the curve.

Front, left hand side out from the neck pocket.

Pic #1. Dermal stand

Pic #2. Back

Pic #3. Front

No work on this today, a lay-day, letting the poly cure before I sand and respray the damaged sections.

However I did spend an hour or so in "my" music shop this morning (where I go to dream). A fortnight ago I was checking out there site on the net and saw a price too good to leave. I knew that they did not have one in stock, but went in to check. Told the manager, he just laughed and said no way, told him to check it out, he did. Today I came home with a (new) 2013 Gibson Supreme. Funny thing is when I checked it again after I got home the other week it had been taken down, but they honoured the price so I'm wrapped. I asked my daughter if there was enough fade or should I sand it back do it again, she said that it was ok the way it is. (darn! i need the practice)

Pic.

nice looking axe Rick !

Ok! Almost started to do something to with this neck.

Sanded the "Goden" brand off, made up some (water slide) decals, stuck them on.

Since then, I have given it a light spray of clear. It is looking ok. Will give it another coat in a day or two, that will do.
Hopefully, tomorrow I will work on the machine heads, hope it won't be too hard to remove the unwanted material.
Want to get it off in one piece if that is going to be possible.
Have decided I wont drastically alter the headstock, I will remove the "soft"section on the machine heads and that will
save me a lot of tuning trouble.

Pic #1 & 2. <> front and back of the headstock (un-sprayed)'
Pic #3. <> where I had lunch yesterday (for no other reason that I dont like to leave a "space")

Rick.

looking good Rick !

Multiacs of that type have nylon strings, so you are right in that the tuners are probably unsuited.
However another option might be to put a steel tubing sleeve over the section where the strings wrap around, which would have less "give" than the standard setup. Also means you can reuse what you have.

Either way, looks like a really cool project.

Love the Gibbo too, very nice

Dumb question Rick - does it have a truss rod? Just asking as I'm looking to do an acoustic build at some time this year (hopefully the Aus $ will recover :( ) and a lot of the classical guitars don't - I'm guessing that the nylon strings don't provide the same tension on the neck and pull it out of alignment...

Hi Brendon, yes it has a struss rod, Godin make a few different multitrac guitars, some nylon some steel. You are right about nylon strings having less tension, but not sure if Godin has a different neck for the nylon "version".

Haven't been working on this monster for a while, ummm er still waiting for the paint to cure!
however I have taken the soft section off the machine heads, so, when I get keen again it's ready to go.
Tried to prise them off but needed to cut them off, but still good.

Rick.

Ps cant resize the photos so will send later.

Ok, here are a few pics'.

Pic 1. <> machine heads with the "soft" (black section)

Pic 2. <> without the trouble bit, notice the shaft is nurled to hold the bush in place.

Pic. 3 <> neck end showing truss rod adjustment. When I took the pic, I noticed a number, had the neck off 3 times before and didn't notice it 'till now. The light of the flash as I cant see it in normal conditions.

The neck is almost ready to reassemble with the trouble free tuning machine heads.

Wonder what happened there, sent this in a few hours ago but it hasn't turned up, no worries though.

Put the neck back together this afternoon.

Pic.<> 1. the bits.
Pic,<> 2. the front.
Pic <> 3. the back.

That took about 10 minutes so thought I might look at the body, yep should have left it as it was. Whatever he used to finish it is very (was) good, the stuff I used has reacted with it some how although it has been cured for about 10 years. have sanded it but will need to sand it a little more then re-stain then finish.

Might start doing a bit to the electrics, no "3 sound" switches just yet, can put them any time if I feel it's worth it.
Just starting to want to try them pups' out.

Rick.

Ok, Close enough to finished, started to wire it yesterday, got that finished but woke up this morning thinking I had left an earth off, I had, but didn't take much to solder that.

looked at it and thought, may as well finish it. Starting to get board with painting and thought, if you get far enough away and squint it looks ok.
bolted the saddles on, about the same place as they were (from memory) stuck some reasonable 2nd hand strings on and it started to make a noise, which I was hoping for. Haven't done final intonation but it is close but may as well wait until I get new strings.

Pic #1. <> Headstock with strings.
Pic #2. <> Control plate, but what is that switch?
Pic #3. <> Pickups (notice the flat-wound strings on the lower 4 strings.)
Pic #4. <> Resting.
Pic.#5. <> Resting.

Now that switch. If any one remembers , I was going to use 2 DPDT, on, on, on. Now they were about $18 each but Jay car didn't have any and I really like just less controls. However I do like to muck around so got 1 DPDT on, off, on.
This is wired so the three way pup selector works as normal, ie Neck, both, bridge, when the DPDT is in the off (middle position). With the DPDT switch is in the up position it allows only the outside coils of each pup to be "hot", ( neck, both, bridge depending on the selector switch). When in the down position the inside coils (along with the pup selector).

Rick.

looking great Rick, hows it sound is the all important question ?

Hey Grandad, I like the way you worked around the tuner problem. Gotta say I was not aware of this strange & wonderful type of guitar.
Now you have something special, which I reckon is very cool indeed.
My guess at that little switch might be that someone at some stage has installed it as an earth breaker? Did this once years ago on a buzzy axe - until I got roundly admonished by an electronics tech.

AaaGggg! Wok, Just played it and it sounds terrific, I find it difficult to believe it sounds so good. So clean and bright.

Max, that little switch is so nice. Put the reverb up and am almost surfing. With it "down" (think it is the inside coils) nice and up, I think just a little nicer.

I have a stutter switch on the first guitar I made, and I made a floor pedal stutter box but unable to work the switch fast enough with the foot. But the one built in to the guitar is unreal. Ummmm! and I never use it though

Pic. <> 1. The guitar
Pic. <> 2. The machine heads with the soft part off.
Pic. <> 3. The switch.

Rick.

Ps Would do a demo but they never seem to work out.

We do need a like button on this forum.

Senbloodysational

Really glad it turned out. And that you kept the slotted headstock. Great result!

that turned out really well, you had some cool vision building that one!

Hi Guys.

I am not having any luck with demos. But was mucking around with the recorder, and put down a 33second attempt.
Just glad I wasn't paying studio time, it took a couple of hours. It still didn't turn out too good but there is some noise.
I recorded it at 128 kbps so that is not as good as it should be but will try at a higher when (if) I do another.

Tried to post it in here but no go so it is on sound cloud. Thats why I recorded it at 128kbps but must still be too big or something.


https://soundcloud.com/rickmoff49/t2-v2-01mp3

Cheers

I just love that headstock. That would look really sweet on the Tele I wanna build.