Printable View
Well here goes, my very first build.
All the parts are present and accounted for and in good condition. The maple top looks great, maybe the gold looks a bit cheesier than expected, but I am think about swapping for Toneriders anyway.
I'm a little bit worried about getting all the electronics through the f-hole and maintaining all the solder joints etc, but am sure its possible.
Pictures are of a dry assembly to check inventory and general fit, then with a few layers of Shellac.
Attachment 455
Lovely cap. The shellac looks cool.
As a tip before you install/ wire check your pot in the nearest hole for height so you only have to do it once and work out spacers etc.
I installed mine and didnt realise till later when i fitted knobs that they sat way off the body due to the thinness of the top.
Pulling pots out and trying to reinstall ended up with lots of broken connections, resoldering and frustration.
Theres a few different methods to install in the forums so have a look through some of the build diaries for the ES.
great start to a first build, enjoy
Welcome and enjoy your first build! Nothing beats the satisfaction at the end when you plug in the axe and crank it up! Like the shellac
Es 335 as a first build. Very brave...
Wiring can be more than a little tricky....even for the experienced!
Welcome aboard csim.
I'm about to start one of these and have also upgraded to gold AC4 Toneriders. Tony makes a good point about checking the pots for fit. You could probably find some extra nuts for the pots so you can set the spacing easily. This method of mounting is best for pots and switches as it doesnt apply any load to the top of the components body. I've broken a few switches that way and always use two nuts now with no more problems.
That shellac looks real good. Can't wait to see this finished and strung up. Good luck and have fun!
Can someone enlighten me on why ES wiring is so difficult? It just looks like Les Paul wiring right? 2H/3 way/2V/2T
It's a bugger to load in through the f-hole Nick but I agree that the circuit itself shouldn't be too hard.
I actually think that if you build the wiring loom on a template outside of the guitar you should be able to do a better job of dressing everything neatly than you could working inside a cavity. I've worked on aircraft instruments in the past and they can be a real pain for access to wiring so I'm not too scared of an ES.
I think the Es-335 wiring is the only wiring to have an entire thread (and team of psychologists) dedicated to it...
DJ's right - circuit wiring is no more difficult than a LP. Real challenge is in getting the wiring into the right places through the F hole without breaking any connections. It means that wire length needs to be pretty right, pots need to be set up right, solders need to be solid and good, etc... Limited room for error.
Got quite a few more layers of Shellac on the top of the guitar this weekend, and also shaped the headstock into a familiar looking shape using a coping saw.
Considering its just bug poo, I am finding the Shellac is relatively easy to apply, although if you try and (or accidentally) do too much in a single go you can end up rubbing it off, rather than on with the solvent either attacking the previous layer, or a thicker layer half drying very quickly which is then dragged across the surface.
Although I though I might have to strip the whole thing back and start from scratch, I found it was easy enough to reapply in patches, with the different layers blending pretty easily, which is a plus. The Shellac is also pretty runny so can pool at the bottom of contours if not careful. I got a lot on the binding, but it is easy to get of with a fingernail or some steel wool once dry.
Was very worried about cutting into the headstock, but downloaded a template and took the slow approach with a coping saw. Not problem at all in the end, and the curves all look pretty symmetrical and natural. Lots of sanding though to get rid of the saw marks and also being on the edge of the timber.
Attachment 497Attachment 498
Welcome csim! If nothing else your avatar is going to make me smile each time I see it
coming along well
Bit more work on the neck, headstock and back of guitar body.
And decided to go with some ToneRider Alnico IV classics combined with CTS pots, Sprague Orange Drop caps and braided shield wire. Figure I don't want to have replace these things too often so bump up the quality a bit.
colour is looking excellent Csim, well done getting the colour of the maple neck pretty well matching the body
Thanks, adding just a bit of colour to the very light maple with the many layers of shellac gives you a bit of control. I'll take the flame top a bit deeper than the back.
Decided I could get the sheen I was after without putting on a layer of clear gloss, but still like the shellac colouring of the maple. Also had to have a look at the gold tuners on a barely dry headstock.
Looking fantastic csim. That's some nice shine you've got there!
cheers,
Gav.
Thought a lot about starting the electronics, but my brain wasn't coping with the mental rotation required. In the end glue seemed more friendly than solder so I just set the neck instead.
nice one Csim looking good, what sort of tonerider pups you got ?
remember when you do your wiring get a bigger piece of cardboard and make sure the pots are at least the same distance as the 4 holes they are going in. Need a bit more wire length so the wires between pots aren't stretched or too tight
Looking good and nice shine, what did you use as a gloss?
So the Toneriders are Alnico IV's as I generally like a more detailed, harmonic rich sound with a bit of o'drive.
The gloss finish was "Minwax water based Polycrylin"that I pick up from the local hardware shop (not the green shed variety). Just applied with a high quality brush, let it dry and then wet n dried it smooth. The can says it can be applied over just about everything apart from red mahogany timber stain for some reason.
I started working out how I am going to get the aftermarket CTS potentiometers in through the sound hole and for the first time realised how much bigger the CTS ones are compared to the pots that come with the kit. Yikes! Almost twice the diameter at the base, including the board and contacts. It's still possible to get them in there but there is pretty well only one orientation that all them to be fed in. Guess that is why they make mini pots?
Hmmm electronics have driven me mildly insane so think the guitar needs to hang on the wall to check the neck glue is dry. And get to know its future neighbours.
looking very nice Csim, the wiring on these is always a challenge. Do the CTS pots fit through the F hole ok ? Looks like you have drilled out the pot holes to suit the larger shaft size.
What are the other axes hanging, is the LP goldtop an epiphone and is it a Str@t or Squier or a build ?
Hi WB - yes they go through but only just once you solder on the metal braid wire I am using. I have actually got everything in place about 4 times and each time I get to the point of a basic sound check only to find that I have lost a solder joint with all the man - handling of the wiring harness. On the plus side I am getting better at getting the input jack and pots in place once they are through the f-hole using some thin gardening wire passed through the jack, and a thicker piece of wire with a magnet combined with some needle nose pliers to get the pots in place.
Also I did have to drill out the holes by a couple of mm to mount the cts pots, but was no drama.
The LP goldtop is an epiphone which has been an awesome guitar since the 90's when I bought it in the UK. The set-up from the guitar shop was just amazing, but I installed Gotohs, and a solid pickup selector switch to cope with the many hundreds of small gigs I have played since then.
The white guitar is a Chinese-made, Australian-retailed (non-kit) guitar I bought as a project for <$100 brand new, before I had even heard of building guitars from kits. I recently added in some Tonerider vintage pickups, Sprague cap (thank you Pitbull) and new wiring, and it sounds awesome, no more mods needed. I have also gigged with this guitar recently, but had a few backups just in case.
I am constantly impressed with the price/quality ratio of low end guitars these days compared to when I was a kid spending hundreds of bucks for some terrible str@t copy or a point headstock guitar.
Bass is a basic Yamaha 4-string for when bass-duties call.
Guitars not shown include a 6-string Cole Clark Fat Lady 2ac, and a 12-string Ovation Balladeer (bought in New Orleans)
cheers Csim, thanks for the run down on your axe collection, all sound great.
Are you aware of the plastic tubing for pulling pots/output jack through ? 5mm works a treat with standard pots, you will need larger pipe for the larger pots. From memory the tube fit inside the output jack
Nope, hadn't hear or thought of it. I'll give it a go if I can find the right tubing.
yeah Csim Gavmiester thought of this and its been posted on the forum many times. Take one of the CST pots and the output jack to a hardware store and see what size tubing fits over the pot shafts, might be 7 or 8mm but the clear plastic tube stretches a bit.
I reckon Gavmiester should patent his excellent discovery and it takes about 2 months off councilling after one has wired an ES !
Probably stops a lot of minor scratches to the guitar finish as well (compared to wire jigs and pliers, oh and enraged fists, teeth etc)
yes Csim the plastic tubing works a treat and makes the job easier which is a bonus.
By the way what is your name Csim ?
it seems to be a tough process, but Gavmeister's method seems to be one of the easiest ways, good luck
Finally sorted out the electronics! Never again, until the next time.
Although I never compared them to the stock pickups, the Toneriders are very impressive, very detailed, yet smooth tone which produce clear strumming and respond very well to a bit of o'drive.
Few things left to do which may take a while as I'll probably just want to play it as it is for a bit:
Truss rod cover - can't decide between making or buying a bell shaped one
Headstock - Decide whether to make up or copy a logo or just leave black
Nut - was glued too high at the factory (couple of mm of dry glue clearly visible between the nut and the neck), which prevents proper set up with a comfortable action. Its playable but not easy, and can sound like its poorly intonated. Can't decide whether to try and file the notches lower or just remove and reglue or replace.
Finish - few minor scratches from wrestling with the electronics need a bit of micro-surgery. Also need to clean the sweat drops off.
Very nicely done :cool:
well done Csim she is a stunner. Glad the wiring works and it sounds good. Think the only immediate thing to do is put a bone nut on, rest of the stuff can wait!
Mate that's gorgeous.
and the gas for a semi-hollow increases...
Wow CSim, you achieved such an amazing finish. She looks beautiful! Definitely GOTM material.
cheers,
Gav.
great result, well deserves to be on the wall and as a GOTM entry