The New Bass Project Begins.

I will do the overtime shifts this week that gives me the money to buy the next kit. They will be in my pay on Tuesday 25 November....so can order and have before Xmas. How cool is that. :)

Seriously looking at the Precision Bass Deluxe kit.... PBH-4

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/b...ss-guitar-kit/

The body is too be finsihed in DingoTone "Coolangatta Gold."

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/d...langatta-gold/

Neck to be finished in Dingo Tone "Bloodwood."

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/d...kit-bloodwood/

Then Dingo Wax over the lot for shine and protection.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/d...ne-guitar-wax/

So keen to hear the difference a totally natural finish will provide.

I have even got a link or two to some Seymour Duncan 1/4 pounder P Bass pick-ups and a Seymour Duncan Bass Humbucker pickup. I have 3 x Japanese 500k pots, and a nice 0.47uf orange drop tone capacitor waiting for homes. May consider a bone nut. Hmmmmmm choices.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/product...b3_quarterpou/

http://www.seymourduncan.com/product...b4a_5a_alnico/

So looking forward to this......like a kid on xmas....but a month early. :)

For what it's worth, the pbh is a killer kit. I absolutely love mine. Really surprised I don't see more being built. I'm sure with those pickups it will take heads clean off.

sounds like a great plan Ozzbike. I've built a PBH4 and they are a great kit and look good. Should rumble with the pickup upgrades

Sounds like a great plan. Will be great to see it come together!

cheers,
Gav.

The order has been placed....I have done 3 x 12 hour overtime night shifts in the fortnight that ends today....so some nice guitar kit money is on its way to me. :)

The PBH-4 kit, with coolangatta gold dingo tone, bloodwood neck finish, and dingo wax for the top of the lot......now to wait for Austic Post.

As an aside, have you guys noticed how piss poor Aussi Post has become of late? I have had a microSD card from melbourne disappear, I have had a small padded packet with 3 orange drop caps from Sydney disappear, I have had 4 tuners from Hong Kong disappear, I have had a set of replacement rubber inserts for the rider foot pegs for my motorcycle disappear from a UK dispatch.

They want to do 3 times a week service, and yet they can't stop losing or stealing shit now. Good luck with that.

I can't wait for the kit to arrive. I have been watching heaps of YouTube stuff to refresh. I have velco sanding discs for the sander ready, papers for hand sanding through to 400 grit (as per DB's video) all ready as well.

Think I will wait for the different pick-ups until the build is done and I hear the standard ones. Do you ever get too old for this stuff....like a kid at xmas right here, right now? :)

I weakened.....found a good price on E-Bay....and have ordered the Seymour Duncan pick-ups from the US. Even with the change in exchange rate they are still 50% cheaper out of an USA based E-Bay store than here in Australia....including postage. Wow.

Just a quick query guys. I was looking through what I have ordered to make this build....and the electronics don't seem to match up.

This pickup....in the purple/black guitar was connected to a 250k pot....

http://www.seymourduncan.com/product...b3_quarterpou/

and had a 0.47uf capacitor across the tone pot.

This pickup is a humbucker style.....so should it not have a 500k pot with 0.22uf capacitor across the tone pot.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/product...b4a_5a_alnico/

I knew I was short of pots so I ordered some 500k gotoh pots.....bugger.....maybe I will have to raid the purple build.

But I have 2 x 0.47uf tone capacitors.....will I be better served getting one 0.22uf capacitor for the humbucker?

Any advice as I plan my attack will be welcome.

Oh, I also ordered a Bass Bridge upgrade from Guitar Fetish.

This one...in Chrome....

https://guitarfetish.3dcartstores.co...ome_p_578.html

Sustain on this bridge....and the sustain difference I have heard with natural as opposed to paint based finishes....I can't wait. :)

You could always wire the controls to have separate volume/tone for each pickup instead of the 3 volume 1 tone. Love those bridges.

Now that is an idea....that would then make it like the P/J basses I have built. But still the question of the humbucker pickup. Am I better off with a 500k pot with a 0.22uf cap?

Hey Ozzbike, I reckon Pablo is on the money no point having 3 volumes, have a separate vol/tone for each pup.
There's no rule on capacitor sizes it all comes down to preference, so I'd try first what seymour Duncan recommend and if you don't like the tone change to the other size.
Nice looking bridge !

I just downloaded the wiring digram from both PB and SD....it appears that the humbucker comes split....able to be wired in parallel or series. Suppose with 2 x volume and 2 tone....just solder the wires together and treat it as a single pickup. Juts have to remember to do it in the right way.

Hey Ozzbike have a read of these two links
http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/ti...o-the-subject/

http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/s...s-for-tone-pot

You could always get a push/pull pot or fit a small switch to split the humbucker

Lots of options with the 4 pots, just depends on what you're looking for:
- 3 volumes and 1 tone.
- 2 volumes, 2 tones (optional push/pull humbucker coil split, optional push/pull humbucker coils series/parallel).
- 2 volumes, 1 coil balance/blend (variable coil balance/split for the humbucker), 1 tone.
- 3 way toggle, 2 volumes, 1 tone.
etc.

250K pots will generally make the sound slightly warmer (losing some highs) while 500K's help to retain the highs keeping it brighter, but it all comes down to what sounds best to you in your particular configuration. Use all 250's or all 500's, but generally don't mix them. 047 caps are a good starting point, 022's may not have enough impact for a low-ender.

With the kit coming set up for 4 x pots.......options a plenty...as you all have given me. Thank you for the ideas.

I think I will do a Volume Pot and Tone Pot for each pickup.

I can find wiring diagrams for P/J basses and similar things, but nothing with 4 x pots....without all the push pull, splits, parallel, series stuff.....or a master tone.

I have found a couple of diagrams that use three pots, they get me close to what I need.

My query:-

I can wire the P Bass volume pot and tone pot....no problem.

I can wire the Humbucker volume pot and tone pot.....no problem.

The question:-

Do I just run the two output wires to the output jack hot side after they leave the two tone pots?

Obviously all the earths will connect, going to the earth on the jack and ultimately to the wire under the bridge. Because unless I do something like that I will end up running the output from the P bass pickup through the Tone control of the humbucker and then to the output jack....so the pickup/volume/tone outputs would have to go seperately but meet at the output jack. I do hope I am right about that.

Keen now....was tempted to buy a push/pull pot for a split on the humbucker coils....but think 2 x volume and 2 x tone is cool with these hot pickups.

Hey Ozzbike
yes if you link the output lug of both tone pots to the hot tip of the output jack like the diagrams it should work fine.
I'm sure Weirdbits will see this thread and know where to find a diagram for this setup.
These diagrams have the signal go pup->volume pot->tone pot->hot tip of output jack.
Or run one wire from hot tip to tone pot output lug then connect the other tone pot output lug to this point so both signals go to output would be a cleaner way to do it

I'll draw up a quick diagram for you... check back later.

As promised, I think this should have you covered:

Attachment 424

Just connect the ground wire for the bridge (as opposed to bridge pickup) to the same common ground point on the back of the pot (in this case, back of the bridge volume pot).

well done Weirdy wiring guru to the rescue again !

Wok and Wierd, you guys rock....thank you so much.....I note the bridge tone pot earth wire is to come....but where would I put the earth wire to go the bridge itself as opposed to the bridge pickup.......from one of the tone pots?

Kid at xmas happening here....cannot wait to get into it. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

...where would I put the earth wire to go the bridge itself as opposed to the bridge pickup...

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See above.

Why thank you good sir. Bits have dribbled in via the POST.....big box is wending its way East....be here today or early next week.....so cool. :)

The tracking info has the kit in Brisbane today.....fingers crossed it should get here tomorrow. I just watched the videos again....dingo-tone. No mention of sanding sealer, nor timber-mate pore filling? Are these steps not suggested with Dingo tone?

Therefore, my process.....sand through to 400 grit....then stain coat....then intensifying coat....then final coat....obviously more than one coat if the guitar/neck needs it....with drying days in between. But no body filling and no sanding sealer? Weird not done that before.

Oh well check all bits are here and usable, measure, see it all fits, mark out drill pickguard and bridge holes.....check neck and body alignment....then sand to 400 on the body....and my read of the videos to 600 on the neck. It cannot be this easy....I have only done water based stains before....and they have heaps of things to do....even before you get to the 18+ coats of TRU-OIL. Wish me luck people. :)

Ozz - if you're using DingoTone, you shouldn't need Tru Oil. It does have a nice sheen to it with just the top clear coat. Sanding sealer / pore sealing can be done, but DT has waxes and all sorts of other good stuff in it to do similar. As you build up coats of the DT, you should get a great outcome even when you don't pore seal.

Was worried when I got the box from the Postie Parcel guy.....had a ding in the front right through inside....yeah even found the red end from a tube tucked away inside. But all was good.

Looks like a nice kit. The pickguard will need some work to fit around the base of the neck.

Love the style and shape of the neck. Work does beckon so it will not get a start until later in the week....bugger.

The bits and pieces appear to be all present and accounted for. The tuners look good....may keep them for a start.

The dingo tone products are in the box as well. They look awesome.

There seems to be a lot of space and therefore margin for error with the neck pocket. It is seriously bigger than the neck. Hmm. Clamps and measuring on this one.....even before we think about drilling holes for the neck screws.

Don't know what to think about this gap....all the way around and at the bottom.

Read time.....put it away....and come back when you are not tired and have 3 x 12 hr shifts coming.

Body looks great....the neck feels really smooth and loving the headstock shape. Bigger than I thought.

looks good Ozzbike, should be a fun build.
From memory I had to widen the pickguard near the neck heel on my PBH build.
I wouldn't worry too much about the gap in the neck pocket, the pickguard should cover that and all you will see is the truss rod fitting

Looking at the truss rod, it shouldnt be protruding like that.
Back off any tension on the rod and see if a gentle tap with a plastic faced hammer seats it correctly.

This is a fairly common thing and 99.9 % of the time it will seat correctly when adjusted with the knockometer :)

Ozzbike I had a look at my PBH truss rod, this is about the only photo I could find that clearly shows it but mine protudes like yours, there are holes in the fitting to put an allen key or small screwdriver in the holes to make adjustments.
Try what DB says and loosen the TR tension and see if you can tap it closer to a seated position

D.B.....thanks.

Loosened the truss rod....no plastic hammer.....little bit of wood against the truss rod end and a small tappage with a steel hammer. It has popped right back in. I tightened it up again and all is good....loose now as I do the finishing.

Sanding, and sanding and more sanding.....Basswood is amazing in its figure....really think of it as a nothing wood. But so nice. Love the maple neck...really smooth. :)

Ozzbike can you please post a photo of the neck heel/truss rod ? Mine still protudes over 10mm out, so sounds like thats not the correct position. I figured it protuded and the adjustment is put a screwdriver in the holes drilled in it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Ozzbike can you please post a photo of the neck heel/truss rod ? Mine still protudes over 10mm out, so sounds like thats not the correct position. I figured it protuded and the adjustment is put a screwdriver in the holes drilled in it

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As requested a couple of shots after applying DB's fine correctional advice. The Truss Rod is loosened off so it would go in even a tad more. :)

Guys,

I have to find some 125mm velco discs for my random orbital sander. I can easily get to 240 grit....but nothing finer than that.

Today I have done both the body and the neck to 400 grit. A couple of times each grade, and a damping down with water on a sponge between each sand....let dry and then sand.

I get some injections in my right shoulder tomorrow....old injury....so it will be numb and then painful for a few days. Sad I am not happy with sanding to the point that I could put some stain on....but as the boys say in the videos....PATIENCE.

I will go 600, and then 800 on the neck....it is so smooth. I wonder what a whole guitar of maple would feel like....with Dingo Tone over it....so smooth and I imagine so full of tone. :)

Whilst I was sitting on a chair sanding a long. The Aussie Post parcel bloke arrived....scared the poo oot me boot....he had the Seymour Duncan pick-ups for me. They look cool in the box and even cooler just sitting in the guitar body....yes I know the P Bass ones would be up in the pickguard.....cool hey. :)

cheers for posting the pics Ozzbike, I'll pull the neck of my PBH and fix the truss rod ! I built that a while ago and didn't know much about the truss rod then, don't think I even set it up properly !
SD pups look great.
Not sure you need to go that fine with your sanding, 800 grit is almost polished and may not take the stain.
Think 400 grit on the body and 600 grit on the neck should be ample.
Fine steel wool between coats

Ozz - Green eyed envy monster well and truly alive here - loving where this is going!

Seeing as I have the needles and pain coming tomorrow I thought I should push through until I get the body and neck/headstock done.

I got the body done....with some bits I would like to give a little touch up....the bottom of the curly bits near the neck pocket are seriously hard to get the sanding/machine marks out of.

I went to 800 as in the Dingo Tone videos DB suggested he is tad retentive as far as necks go and he takes his to 600 or 800.....so I did it to 800.

I don't know why Basswood is sort of thought as oh yeah it is a wood.....I don't know if the camera caught it....but there a little bits of flame in the wood....and some nice grain/figure.

Well back in the box for the body and neck until I can move my arm again. The bridge has hit Sydney and should not be too far away....that would mean I just have the staining and waiting times to go.....cool huh. :)

looking nicely sanded Ozz. Some basswood can have some nice figure. Just beware its quite a soft timber and can dent/ding pretty easily !
Sure once you get the stain on the grain will pop

OOOH,

Was getting a head of my self here. Time to slow down. I have not placed the bridge, drilled holes for it, not adjusted, filed and drilled the pickguard holes. Deep breath greggy and slow down.

These things are all better done before I apply a finish I assume? Will have to find that guide on Bass bridge placement/measurment and watch it again. Love the support on this forum. :)

I have a few clamps and even with the plastic pads on they do leave some marks.....note to self put tape or fabric under the e string and g string where you clamp across the headstock behind the nut....save more sanding.

Doc and jabbage at 0915 Queensland time....see how my movement goes after that. Lucky I was reading other threads....completely forgot about that. Was so caught up in the sanding, feel of the wood and wanting to put the Coolangatta Gold stain on. Slow greggy slow. :)

Greg,
some builders drill the bridge/pickguard holes before the finish. The advantage is if you do any damage to the body its easier to fix before finishing. Some do this after the finishing.
For lining up the bridge I'd put the E and G tuners on, or put all 4 tuners on and drill the tuner screws while your at it. When I clamp the neck I use a scrap piece of wood between the frets and clamp, make sure it's a bit narrower than the E to G string distance. Wise to put a rag between the other side of the clamp and the body