Getting a gloss out of wubtone is like pulling chickens teeth.
Doing the best I can with this Junior. None the less I am very happy with the colour.
PK
Printable View
Getting a gloss out of wubtone is like pulling chickens teeth.
Doing the best I can with this Junior. None the less I am very happy with the colour.
PK
looking good PK
Looking great Paul
looks pretty sweet Paul
looks a million bucks there Paul :)
Tks Guys. I apprieciate all your good thoughts. :)
PK
I think I may have figured out why I am not getting enough gloss out of the Wudtone Clear Gloss(with age tint). I am thinking the cotton swab I am using to apply it is too course. I am going to let it cure for a few days, then hit it with Super-fine 0000 steel wool and find a nice soft cloth to apply a couple more coats of gloss. then assess and if I am happy put it all together.
:) PK
For the gloss with Wudtone I followed some instruction I found in the Pit Bull forums how to build guitar guide. Basically this involved applying your Wudtone top coats, wait a week to cure then apply up to 3 very thin coats leaving a couple of days between each layer. Once you have applied the 3 thin coats wait another week to cure then buff with some photocopy paper. I have tried this technique with good results.
sounds like too much effort - hit it with nitro! ooppss.....
Yes, agree with that.. I've since moved onto wipe on poly, no requirement to be skilled in the Zen of waiting for curing!
Have that man whipped!!Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
I think I'll go down the A4 copy paper pathway first... if that's no good... then hit it with Notro..... rofl Nah. Acrylic. :D
PK
Shine on you crazy diamond,
Who would have though the wudtone would shine wood.
It's not a patch on 'Naugty room products' but it does get a bit of shine going. still has a finish like naugahide though
PK
If it's a nice day tomorrow I'll neck this thing... he he he
Looking great PK!
cheers,
Gav.
nice colour PK looking great
Tks Guys. Forcarts is for rain tomoz. but if I get a break I can run it down the shed and glue and clamp the neck in pace.
PK
Tks Guys. Forcarts is for rain tomoz. but if I get a break I can run it down the shed and glue and clamp the neck in pace.
PK
Set neck glued in, tuner machines screwed in
Almost there! Looking good PK.
Final steps yeah! Looks great PK.
Coming along nicely, good work on the Wudtone shine. More subtle than naughty room products, it will also burnish over time with guitar use giving more shine and ages very naturally
It may seem like it has been a hard road with this, but it has only been a Slow road, due to the Hard road on the Balck and Yellow builds. Should see this finshed in a few days. Time permitting. The fortunes of having to go out and earn money to pay the bills.
Tks All.
PK
EPIC Fail. forgot to check the bridge height before glueing...... You would have though the little man in china operating the machine would err on the low side not the high side. Anyhow, not all is lost. steamed the neck off, took about half an hour standing over a hot steamer. but in the end it popped off easy. after all it had only been glued a for a few days
Now I got to figure out how to shed a cpl of mm off the front of the heal without too much damage. or should I add some veneer to the back end....
PK
Veneer would be the safer and more 'oops friendly' option.
Ok Bits its Veneer it is I have a sheet of rock maple .5mm thick, so I'll work out how much I need by placing some strips on the back edge.
the strings were sitting about 5-6mm above the last fret with the bridge wound all the way down, so it's got to move a fair bit.
PK
Hey PK, make sure you do a mock build with both E strings on with the shim in place to make sure the action will be ok.
I haven't built a DC junior but wonder if anyone else had the same problem.
might be worth gluing the shims together if its multiple pieces of maple. A one piece shim would be better and I normally glue this in prior to gluing the neck.
I'd ask Gav T has built 2 of these I think if the neck pocket should have a raked angle on it. It appears to be flat.
Make sure you remove all the glue of the neck heel and wouldn't hurt to remove the carmine stain, the neck join will bond better to raw wood
Good luck
You'll be surprised at how far a very small shim will move the strings. I'd say you'll only need one or two layers of the veneer.
I'll cut a couple of 6 mm wide sims and put them in the bottom of the route and check it before I cut the real ones. The rock maple sheet I have is about A4 size so I have plenty.
I ususally clamp the neck in and lay the long straight edge between the nut and the bridge. But building three juniors I sort of missed a step twice(oops).
I also had to steam the neck off the Yellow Junior. That was a toss up between rebate the bridge pins or steam it off. As I was already playing steam operator I went with that option. While that one was relatively easy to steam off I applied too much pressure on the neck and cracked the heal. It's nothing a couple of pieces of 6mm dowel can't fix. The Yellow junior wasn't as bad as the Gypsy. With the gypsy if I went with the rebating of the bridge pins I would have needed to rebate a mm of the bridge itself, and I just didn't think that was a good idea. :)
Cheers PK
Had a bit of a play with the rock maple veneer.
I got up to 3 slices and the strings were still about 3.5 - 4 mm above the 22nd fret.
I am not keen on glueing four slices under the neck, so have ordered 3 piece of Sapeli veneer, total cost of $7.70, this stuff is usually used on headstocks and is around 2 mm thick.
This will allow me to set a taper on it and slip it into the neck socket.
Currently thinking of a way I can use a router bit to plane the taper out precisely.
Cheers PK
so PK on your other DC junior builds is the neck pocket tapered ? they should be, all G type set neck builds generally are.
I'd carefully sand the shim with an orbital sander to get a wedge shape. Shim will need to be at least 40-50mm long I think
Once the rake angle is correct the action should be much better
After three different atempts to sort this neck rake I think I am finally getting the right result.
1st attempt, was to put a piece of 3mm thick sapelle frm a headstock veneer on the heal. Not easy to work with and like concrete to try and sand down. The problem with this stuff on a basswood neck is like cheese and charcaol. the veneer was too dark and when I applied the colour it just got darker.
2nd attempt, was to remove the sapelle and just sand the angle in. the end result was that I achieved a perfectly flat surface, problem was the rake was still 5 mm under the bridge. All I had done was parallel the base of the heal to the fretboard(35mm at both ends of the heel). Me thinks they had the wrong angle on the heel as I had sanded about 3mm of the front of the heel and none off the back of it. DOH.
Note to Adam, drop the Set neck DC Jnr, after all it is only a bolt on neck without the holes drilled.
3rd attempt, I cut up about 5 slivers of rock maple of differing lenghts starting from the egde of the neck socket and worked towards the heal in 16mm increments. I then sanded it nice and flat. I have started adding colour to the edge and it is matching in nicely, although you can still see a bit of the seam where the strips are glued along the side of the neck.
To make matters just that little bit harder I am trying to work on this while the grand kids are here from Singapore. makes it hard to sneak out to the shed when the kids want to play games.
Cheers PK
Nice idea with the gradients PK.
Thanks Nicko,
I'd tried the single piece and it just didn't work, too hard to sand a taper on it.
Wokka
the Black was OK, considering it is from Sonor, which is the German trading name for Jinan Xuqiu Musical Instruments, The Yellow had the same issue as this the PBG but only a third as bad(about 1mm) as this Kit(3mm). The Yellow is from Sonor Kit supplier.
It seems to me that they only really threw this kit together without really thinking it through. the Heal on the neck was as rough as guts. I mean the back edge was lob sided by a couple of mm. and Still is. This neck will never go right the way back into it's pocket. Which probably explains why it steamed appart so easily. I am planning to put a lot of glue into it this time around, as I need to reduce the small gaps around the seam of the join. :D
Cheers PK
Kels, bummer about the neck problem ... but confidence and persistence (which you've got) and you'll nail it!
... just as you've nailed the colour ... really looks as sweet as ... the Carmine Gypsy really suits the JR-DC down to a tee!
When she's finished, this build's certainly going to give the GOTM a run for its money!
Thanks Scott,
I do like the colour it brings out the grain out in a real nice subtle way.
This is the only PBG build out of the three Juniors I am building, and it is pretty much 100% PBG appart from the pots wich I changed out for 24mm CTS 500K pots. I did go looking for a more upmarket pup for it but the PBG will do just fine for now.
As it sits now with a straight edge on the 'G' string slots I have about 2.5 mm clearance over the 22nd fret. So I am feeling happy about the set up. I've already leveled the frets, so it should all be real nice.
If not I can always tune it to open 'G' and make slidey sounds. :)
Cheers PK
Always have a backup plan.
After a week or so of reapplying colour to about 3 square inches of the neck heel I am about two coats off regluing this baby.
Cheers PK
keep going PK, I think we will all be glad to see this one done!
Tks Stan, yeah it's close. be done if I didn't have to work for a living. :)
This should keep the whingers happy... LOL finally got an opportunity to glue this back together. Grand kids went back to Singapore on Friday, but it was Pissistently raining yesterday, so had to hang on till today.
Should be doing fit off on either Wednesday or next week end. Got to work on Mon, Tue, Thur and Firday, so won't get a chance before then.
PK