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Hey guys. Here she is. I'll do some investigative work tonight with a damp cloth to see if there are any glue spots. First impressions, the cap looks real nice, only one scuff mark on the horn. My only major concern is that the truss rod has broken away from the glue in the channel and it almost falls out. You can push it back in though.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...w-IMAG1151.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...4-IMAG1152.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...r-IMAG1153.jpg
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looks nice the cap Andrew good score mate. Did you put an allen key in the truss rod slot to see if its still tensioned ? I've had this happen to a LP neck and it pushed back in and is fine.
Thought you would have given it the damp cloth 1st thing, fingers crossed the glue isn't too bad on the cap !
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I might in a sec actually. My wife brought it into work for me. I'll keep you posted. Hoping it just doesn't spin in circles.
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Nice cap on this one mate. What was the problem with it again?
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nice work mate. Yeah I'd test the truss rod and get a damp cloth on the cap, bit worried about any darker areas may be glue but could be darker parts of the cap too
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Yeah, check that truss rod doesn't spin freely asap. The only reason I can think of it moving that much is it's not attached at the other end. :(
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Alright, so I pushed the rod in til it butted against the end of the channel and dialed in a bit of relief and she is stuck good and solid. Might just be when the neck approaches straightness that it can slide around a bit. Here is the cap. Glueless apart from one tiny bit where the veneer is holy due to the spalt and the glue has come to the top.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...v-IMAG1158.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...8-IMAG1157.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...m-IMAG1155.jpg
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awesome score Andrew, no glue I'd go out and buy a lotto ticket while you have luck with you !
Hows' the neck fit in the pocket nice and tight ?
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Yeah it's nice mate. Truthfully, my wife coerced me into getting this kit to build and sell to fund pickups for the ib7 that's coming. After seeing that it's 24 frets and pretty clean, I'm in 2 minds. Maybe if I sell the lp I just finished and the candy thinline Tele haha.
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yeah I'd be keeping the PRS kit for sure. What stain colour you got planned ? It would look pretty awesome with just clear coats !
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Just gonna pop it and clear, back and sides will be a mix of golden oak and a touch of Japan brown, naughty oil the neck and call it a day.
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cool should look choice. Looks like mahogany body and the neck is maple ?
Would look super cool with a nice veneer on the headstock
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Yeah mate maple neck. Any pro tips on where to get veneers online?
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this is the company that was at the Perth wood show in August, they had a wicked range of veneers, I was lucky enough to buy 2 mixed bags and some extra blackheart sassafras. They are based in Tasmania and should be able to post an order
http://www.huonpinefurniture.com.au/
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Sweet thanks mate. Did a search for a few others as well. They are cheaper than I thought!
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yeah no worries Andrew, might pay to check Qld may save you some postage and delivery time.
I'd order a few different veneer types so you can try and match colours and grain of the body
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Will do mate. That zebrano stuff looks amazing, as does macassar ebony
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yeah any of those exotic veneers will look awesome on the headstock
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What's the point of having 24 frets if your fat short fingers can't get to it! I took a leaf out of my mate Paul Smith's book and set about carving up the treble horn to allow my overweight digits access to some high e glory.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...p-IMAG1160.jpg
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nice work Andrew, expose more of that mahogany, last PRS I built I stained these scallops same colour as the cap and it looked cool.
No nail polish on the toes today mate ? haha
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That Paul fella knows a thing or two. This is really what these kits are missing imho.
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Nice one Wokks, got a photo? No polish today, got my peddi tomorrow arvo.
Pabs yeah very true, as well as the full carved top but for $175 I'm not gonna complain.
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Oh yeah, if there was a full carve version I'd be on it like stink on a hippy.
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hey Andrew,
this was actually a DIY Guitars kit - but its a flame maple cap, not spalted so not really applicable to you. I popped the grain with black stain and went around with sort of a black edge. The bright red on the scallops really highlighted them.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...9-07.22.25.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...9-07.22.04.jpg
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Question for you guys, do you grain fill the cap before staining to pop the grain. I did on the lp and it turned out great but some of the spalt lines were fainter afterwards. Only thing I'm worried about is the veneer has some voids in it from the fungus eating the wood and any stain that gets in them will just show up as black blobs.
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cheers Andrew, I've never grain filled a spalted cap in fear of hiding any grain, but in your case could be worth a really light grain fill. I like the natural rough surface of the spalted caps
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That's what I thought. I'm using the natural timber mate. Last time was ebony. I'm going to tru oil the neck, but what are good finishes for the body? Want something that is satin, not high gloss, that is easy enough to apply, so no French polishing, but sets pretty hard and thin. Sticking with fw gear, how does Danish oil, or even some of the flooring varnishes go?
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sounds like a good plan bro.
I've never tried this so can't really comment, this comes in satin and gloss so you would apply it like TO.
http://www.feastwatson.com.au/consum...t-details/1512
another option is to try Dingotone clear coat, sure that would come up nice
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Andrew, I'd email DB and ask him how glossy his clear kits are, I started using his clear coats and got tired of waiting 5-7 days curing. Should be less than that now being warmer. He may still have some satin clear wudtone maybe more suitable as what I've seen DT clear will have a medium gloss finish
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Yeah mate will do. I'll probably just stick to fw gear for this one caus that's what it's done with, but future builds I'm going to try dt top to bottom. I've got bugger all prooftint left so a good excuse to try something new.
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nice, is that japan black ?
be super careful when u sand it back, as you know the caps are ultra thin.
So u clear coating once the black is rubbed back ?
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Yeah I might just stick to steel wool and take my time. Japan black it is. Back and sides have one sanding sealer coat, will do another later on, then stain tomorrow. After all that, then I'll Danish her up.
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Back and sides all stained up. Will let that dry now and crack on with the neck. Don't know whether to go trad prs shape, or like the one I did for the lp which was inspired by hagstrom.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...q-IMAG1164.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...2-IMAG0900.jpg
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I'd like this opportunity to thank sanding bobbins for a drill press. Ermegherd it makes it so much easier. I went with a prs shape, just a bit more pointy. Cut it out, sanding bobbin with 4 different grits, half an hour later I have a head stock cleaner than a whistle. Just need to radius the edges that have been cut, final sand the neck and profit!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...k-IMAG1165.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...8-IMAG1166.jpg
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nice one Andrew, whats the stain on the back/sides ?
I use those flap wheel sanding discs work great hey, never tried in the drill press might give that a go
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Yeah I've got that flap wheel, 120 grit, and a Bosch set with 3 grades of paper as well. Worked so well. The stain is fw golden oak with about 25% Brown Japan and 25% metho. I find that the stain neat tacks to the sanding sealer too quick and leaves streaks but with the metho, it just flows on a bit nicer.
