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Might have to go to GA. Told myself last build was the last one then found myself clicking on purchase JM1 with T bird Wudtone finish. Kit good, only one problem, bridge is malformed.
Here are pics of mock build and mangled bridge.
If anyone has used T bird can you tell me if finish is fairly opaque. Have some pesky glue stains in the hard to get at curves near the neck pocket.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...9-P8280878.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...s-P8280880.jpg
Peter send Adam an email and he should be able to post you a replacement bridge. With the glue in near the neck pocket buy some small wire brushes from the big green shed and brush it off and then sand any marks made.
Here's a photo of Dingobass built a JM1 in T-bird and it is quite a solid colour
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...one-T-bird.jpg
What's wrong with the bridge? I can't really tell from that photo.
Pablo looks like part of the bridge has sheared off, see there's only one pivot half circle hole on the left, no pivot on the right
Gents. Thanks for quick responses. Apparently the bridge supplied is what they look like (email from Adam confirming). Also if you look carefully at guitar built by dingobass you can see bridge pivot points look sheared off just like the one I got. We live and learn.
Peter, we need to see a close up of the JM-1 bridge on another build but yours to me definitely looks sheared off, there needs to be at least a small slot for the bridge to pivot on the posts
There is a 'knife' edge there. Here's the pic from the product page.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...01/JM-1-04.jpg
Looks fine to me. It really only needs one side to lock in to the correct position.
ok I've never seen this style of bridge so you are probably correct Pablo.
The knife edge on Peter's bridge looked a bit rough as though something had sheared off
True probably just needs a touch up with a file. :)
well I've learnt something today about the JM-1 bridge, cheers Pablo !
Dude, I don't even own one. I reckon this one is the best looking bridge in the pitbull lineup. Bar maybe the bridge from the IB-6.
What can I say.....I like bridges. :P
Gents
Thanks for help. Might need to give knife edge on bridge a little tlc but I can now see how it works. Different> AS I say we live and learn.
thats what I would do Peter. Get a fine file should clean it up then maybe some fine steel wool and polish it up.
It must work as there's been at least 3 of these JM kits built and no one has mentioned the bridge pivot doesn't work.
As long as the knife edge sits at the same height as the left pivot it should work fine
Similar set up on the new floyd roses, one location and one blade.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on August 28, 2014, 15:54
thats what I would do Peter. Get a fine file should clean it up then maybe some fine steel wool and polish it up.
It must work as there's been at least 3 of these JM kits built and no one has mentioned the bridge pivot doesn't work.
As long as the knife edge sits at the same height as the left pivot it should work fine
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...828_162541.jpg
Great kit Pete. Very jealous over here. Been on my short-list for a while now. Very interested to see how yours turns out. I certainly have learned something new about these trem bridges!
cheers,
Gav.
Gents
Thanks for your help so far but need some more. First time using T bird by Wudtone and puzzled by results so far. Have a look at the pics. Colour does not seem to get thicker evenly. I am applying with small lint free cloth pad and steel wool between coats. Do I just keep going and it will work out or are there some tricks to putting this stuff on. Also clear top coat looks a bit thick in the bottle. Anyone know what Wudtone is diluted with? Doesn't smell like turps to me.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...t-P9090977.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...6-P9090978.jpg
Hey Peter, how many coats of T-bird have you applied ? what grit did you sand the body to before staining ?
The colour isn't taking at all, you may have sanded the body too fine and the surface is too smooth to take the wudtone. The clear coats are generally quite thick, don't worry about it, it will apply like the stain coats
I'd be roughing up the surface a little for some tack. This happened on my ST build.
Thanks guys.
Yeah I think I went too fine on the sand, the T Bird just seems to wipe right off. Also I put on heaps of coats of white base and that really seemed to smooth everything out too much. Also thinking steel wool between coats making things too smooth. Maybe sand over with 180? What do you think?
i guess the white base is the issue here. did the tbird come with deep colour in the kit? cos i think your meant to soak that in first then the top layers bring out the full colour.
nice kit though and interesting bridge, another one im considering for my next kit if i dont go with another tele
180 grit will go straight through the finish. You don't want that. I haven't had much experience with wudtone, but are you being thorough enough with your steel wooling?
Peter I'd try and sand it with maybe 220/240 grit, see how that goes. Then try more coats of T-bird. I wouldn't mix any white into the T-bird, try and get some deep colour into the body first. Steel wool just takes any rough material off for the next coat but maybe drop the steel woolling between coats till you get some colour depth
Thanks gents for comments. Went a bit radical, sanded back to bare wood. One word of warning. I used wet and dry for 120 grit with water and looks like it made sap stain come out (small black dots)> Not worried about them they disappear under the blue a bit but if you were doing light colour then maybe not so good. My suggestions for T Bird. Don't use "base coat" as a base coat it seals the wood too much. I reckon it should only be used to cut the blue down in hues (why would you do that?). Final grit was 180 (dry only) and then only to get some rough stuff off left by 120. Going for matt finish anyway so not worried about not being piano smooth. Also suggest not over doing steel wool (0000) between coats, it really polishes the surface. Anyway back to bare wood seems to have done the trick. Mind you it sucked up the colour so may not have enough for second coat. Such is life.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...f-P9110985.jpg
Yes Ben I think the white base is the problem here. It is labelled "base coat" but I think it is only meant to be used to "dilute" the blue colour (make less blue). T Bird does not come with deep base tint so I reckon the blue (diluted with white if you want) is the first coat or coats then the finish coats. They are a great looking kit and pick guard pre-loaded.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from BenWA on September 10, 2014, 08:44
i guess the white base is the issue here. did the tbird come with deep colour in the kit? cos i think your meant to soak that in first then the top layers bring out the full colour.
nice kit though and interesting bridge, another one im considering for my next kit if i dont go with another tele
ah ok thats a bit confusing. the colour looks absolutely amazing now though!
well done Peter that colour looks superb. Worth the effort to sand back to bare timber
The colour is looking fantastic now Peter! Well done with the fix. Should look amazing now against that red pickguard!
cheers,
Gav.
Excellent result. Well worth the extra effort.
Thanks gents. Had just enough blue to darken up a few lighter patches. Very happy with result now.
good stuff Pete, pics after the last coat ?
Us forumites thrive on Friday guitar p0rn haha
wow, looks pretty vivid, nice
Thanks for feedback gents. Being a bit of perfectionist and on closer inspection finish is more patchy then I wanted. Check out pics. Have run out of colour and too tight to spring for more. So thinking road worn look. Has anyone done this? Any tips welcome.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...n-P9140997.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...f-P9140994.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...2-P9140990.jpg
"roads worn"? Try this...
[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVbdBBrqino[/embed]
Really in 2 minds about road worn look now I have seen mock build.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...P9140998-2.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...P9140999-2.jpg
Looks Nice very nice
Decided to go for road worn look (see pics). Just as well really because just after did the sanding off dropped body and dinged it. Also going to try boiled linseed oil/gum turpentine finish to see if it gives it an old look.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...x-P9141002.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...e-P9141003.jpg
Well, too late now! Road worn look it is! :)
Road worn mock build looks ok
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...P9151016-2.jpg
Not sure if this is an avenue you might want to explore but it's something I've done on my current build and gives a really nice effect, especially if you're going for a "worn" look. I gave the back plate(s) a very light rub with 1200 to expose a bit of the copper (just in places), then finished with some 2000, it adds a really nice reddish blush to the chrome, would work well on the control plate I reckon.Quote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from x.yamaha on September 15, 2014, 07:48
Road worn mock build looks ok
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...P9151016-2.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...0-P1040834.JPG
looks great Peter, the worn look is very cool. Should look sweet when its finished