clear over dye/stain. jarrod?

Hey guys. I was lucky enough to score the spalty lp with the chip on it today. I wanted to timber mate the hole which is right near the binding, stain the whole thing, spray a thin burst around the edge then clear it. I have a fair bit of 2k clear here, just wondering what stain or dye would be ok under the 2k. In Harrods vid he dyed the tks, then airbrushed a burst, finally clearing with acrylic.
If I understand correctly, which is probably not, then if you can acrylic clear something, then 2k clear should be sweet. The product I'm using is debeers which I got with 1k colours for another project from an auto paint rep at paint place in mackay.
Basically, should I use dye or stain, and any brands? Thanks.

In jarrods vid. Damn phone auto correct.

In my jazz guitar project I used Feast Watson stain on the timber and acrylic clear over - use a very fine mist coat of clear the first few times - if you go too heavy, too soon, then you risk reaction between the clear and whatever is under it. Clear coats are notorious or being more reactive

Thanks mate. How do you think 2k clear would go? Did you let the stain dry for any longer than normal?

2pk clear will go over alot of different finishes. 2pk will even go over old acrylic. Just not the other way round. I use the stewmac colortone dyes.

That's awesome, thanks mate. Would the feast Watson prooftint work?

Basically I want to achieve a finish similar to this but with a thinner burst and a very slightly tinted stain. That stew Mac stuff looks incredible though, just looking for something a little closer to home.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...vin-IV-013.JPG

Do you think this would turn out similar to the guitar above? Dye to top black, sand back to pop the grain, sanding sealer, airbrush the burst then clear it? I found an Australian brand of water based dye called u beaut.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html

They also do a sanding sealer.

I used dark teak FW Prooftint and acrylic over, no problems as long as the first coats are misty light. I let it cure for a week before clear - seemed to work fine

Yeah awesome. How did the grain come up? Nice and flat or did it still have some texture? Tossing up whether I'll need sanding sealer. Will defs need to timber mate the mahogany but want to make sure I screw up the spaltwd top as little as possible.

Quote:

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/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from andrew on August 11, 2014, 11:10
Do you think this would turn out similar to the guitar above? Dye to top black, sand back to pop the grain, sanding sealer, airbrush the burst then clear it? I found an Australian brand of water based dye called u beaut.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html

They also do a sanding sealer.

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I dont use sanding sealers , if you go that way maks sure its ok with the clear. You can spray the dyes and if they do black why bother with the paint?

all sprayed with colortone dye
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...811_124527.jpg

The guitar I got had a chip in the veneer around the binding. Going to grain fill with timber mate. Was going to use the solid black to hide this basically. I'm new to staining so if you think the dye will be dark enough to mask it I'll go that route.
So to clarify the procedure, black dye the top, sand back to pop it, airbrush dye burst, then 2k clear mist coats, then a decent pass, sand back with wd, repeat clears till pores are filled?

Mate that things magic.

Only a light black to pop the grain, dont go to heavy . That es had red dye to pop the grain

Ok awesome. Thanks heaps for your help hey. For the spalted top I've been reading the caps need a stabilizer. Will I need to do this as it's such a thin veneer? I want to get it glassy without having to use a massive amount of clear on it. Thinking I might use 2 acrylic clear aerosols i have to seal it after the dye, burst, then 2k clear over that. Not too worried about using stacks of the aerosol gear as I'm using a spray gun from now on and the cans are just gonna gather dust.

No i would go straight with the two pack. 2 mist coats straight on the dye, leave it for a week to harden off then two heavy coats. Cut and polish it before it really hardens off with 2pk. 2pk is very dangerous paint so i recomend good air flow and a 2pk mask only. 2pk contains isocyanate and that shit is deadly. Dont spray near animals or people. Hence why I now stick to acrylics, less hassel and no where near as dangerous. Also you can cut it back as thin as possible to keep as much tone from the wood as you can. Also in most states it is illegal to spray 2pk in an uncontrolled residential property so unless your in a panel shop I would not recomend it. Also 2pk is a very thick clear to spray and will do no favors to your guitar, an experienced painter can control this but inexperienced painters tend to spray very thick coats. I sprayed my first build with 2pk as thats all I new with the helmets and bike tanks I used to spray. I built an identical guitar and used acrylic and got a much brighter tone. If you can use the acrylic I use in the video as it just works. 6 or 7 thin coats and cut it back to thin.

Thanks heaps for that. I'll be doing it in a booth for sure, there is a panel shop who will hire the booth for a 6 pack, can use their air fed mask.
Stupid me, went into the paint shop and specifically asked for acrylic, a black, a metallic silver and a clear. He sold me the clear I got as it was better and would develop a deeper gloss. I was sold! Only when I got home, 3 hours away, that the tin that I thought had thinners, had hardener. I'm a little scared now. I'd be tempted to just bin it and buy some acrylic but the stuff was over $100!