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Hey guys,
A while ago I placed an order for this STA-1M and it finally came in early May. I've been always GASing over a surf green/sonic blue strat with a maple neck for the longest time but they were always way too overpriced.
Well, I thought.
I'll make it myself.
Here's a few pics so far. Only unfortunate thing is there are a couple of chips on the body. I have Timbermate on standby.
Pics:
Face
http://i.imgur.com/v5D13h7.jpg?1
Rear
http://i.imgur.com/6LrROpw.jpg?1
Curve
http://i.imgur.com/wkYhXQh.jpg?1
Chips
http://i.imgur.com/Ta35Kct.jpg?1
Neck
http://i.imgur.com/iKGp5xm.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/t6588Hq.jpg?1
Headstock
http://i.imgur.com/gnDLaWv.jpg?1
To be continued... Slowly...
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umm... is that last image flipped or is it actually a reverse headstock?
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Nick - there may be a few chips, but there's also some nice grain there too. Looks like you scored.
With you Scott - the headstock looks ... unexpected.
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I was hoping someone would notice. Definitely a reverse stock :D
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Great kit Nick! Reverse headstock is really cool and the grain looks great. a couple of patches to make but she is going to look amazing when finished!
cheers,
Gav.
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this will come up very nicely mate
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So I tried filling today with Timbermate however I'm not sure I'm doing it right...
I'm using one of the applicators you use for wall patching. I mixed some sawdust + putty and applied it thick then scraped off excess like I've been told to, however after I scrape it off the putty isn't sitting in the chips - it's getting taken with the rest of it.
Should I lay it on thick, leave it to set, and then sand it off? I don't want to leave any of the residue on there because the grain is really nice around these chips.
Any ideas?
Cheers.
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hey Nick sounds like the timbermate paste is too thick. If you put a popstick in the mix and lift some it should slowly run off the popstick and drop. You don't need to mix much. Maybe don't add the sawdust in the mix, just use a timbermate and water slurry. Make sure you mix it up well.
Try and scrape in minimal putty so there's less clean up, so get a small scrap piece of wood with a sharp wedge shaped edge to apply the putty. Make sure the paste is proud of the surface and give it plenty of time to dry before you sand it off
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Sounds like the go Wokks. Will try this on the weekend.
Cheers.
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Keen to see how this baby turns out Nick.
Even keener to have a shred once we get our gear together. ;)
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^Aye. Many a shred!
So I had a crack at patching today.
First, I Macgyver'd a mixing pot out of breakfast.
http://i.imgur.com/L99JWxG.jpg?1
And all patched up ready for a good sanding tomorrow night or Saturday.
http://i.imgur.com/GROqwEN.jpg?1
Stay tuned!
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moving ahead mate, watching this one - enjoy!
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"First, I Macgyver'd a mixing pot out of breakfast"
True, McGyver could make something out of anything. He also didn't carry a gun but apparently he can wield an axe!
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MacGyver ain't no one to mess wit'.
So today I went to work on the filler that I applied. Armed with sandpaper, a dustmask, and 120 hours worth of metal, I set to work.
4 hours later, DB's mantra running through my head to the tune of Bullet in the Head by Rage Against the Machine, and a dead arm, I finally stopped.
And the result...
http://i.imgur.com/b1xh5ff.jpg?1
Much prettier! Moved onto 180 grit and that will be a job for tomorrow.
Onwards!
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Looks like you might need more than 120 hours of metal before you are done. ;)
Looks amazing now though. Good work.
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Aye. I haven't even started neck prep yet.
Speaking of which - how does one know which grit to start with? The neck is already in pretty good shape... Is there a standard grit they're sanded to in the factory? Fretboard + neck?
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Another day, another 4 hours sanding. Body prep is finished. Just going to do a quick pass with some 240 tomorrow + 0000 wool then it'll be time for staining.
Soon...
http://i.imgur.com/va3OHPL.jpg?1
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Bumping ^ ^ ^ any ideas on above question?
Also, will wiping the body with a damp cloth show all the flaws or is there a better way? Want to make sure it is 100% prior to stain.
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don't know if there is a standard grit, but I hve found 240 is a good start
damp cloth works well
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Nick, give the neck similar sanding treatment to the body, I normally use 180, 220 and 240 grit papers. The level of sanding that comes from the factory varies so if the neck looks pretty well sanded you had a win. Can't hurt to sand more as DB's mantra says !
Did you mean to say 120 minutes of metal ? 120 hours is 5 full days !
One of my fave albums RATM self title !
Looks like you are stocked up nicely with wudtone stains and some new Dingotone !
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your other question Nick yes use a damp cloth with a bit of water, just enough to wipe away any dust. Andy from wudtone said don't use any turpentines or metho as this may lessen the amount the wudtone will soak into the timber
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Certainly was 120 hours worth Wokks. Spotify is a dangerous thing. :D Definitely my favourite album from RATM! So much riffage.
Cheers for the answers. More sanding will be happening Wednesday for the neck + final sand for the body. :D Getting close now!
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The body is looking really great Nick - Great work with the filler. Looks like the RATM really worked wonders ;). Yes the self-titled album is my favourite too. So many classic licks. I haven't listened to it for a long while, so I think it's time to give it another spin 8-). Personally I find these rock maple necks are really smooth straight out of the factory, but I tend to go back and start at 240 just to be on the safe side, especially the headstock if you want it to take colour.
cheers,
Gav.
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Sweet. Cheers lads.
So I've been researching ways to stain this body without making a jig. The best way I've found so far is the lazy susan method that Fender used in the 50s/early 60s. Basically you hammer in a few nails into the pickup cavity, spray the front, wait til it is flash dry, flip the body then use the nails as stilts to keep the face off the work bench.
Anyone tried this method? Would this work with a stain or do they take longer to dry?
Thanks guys
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Well, that sure sounds simple and effective to me. I can't see why it wouldn't work.
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First coat is on.
Man, ash is some thirsty thirsty wood. I hope I don't have to order more Wudtone.
Will post pics after it has dried.
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Nick the 1st coat of wudtone is always the thirstiest - I use up to 1/3 to almost half a bottle in the first coat. Next coat give it a light rub with fine steel wool and as the first coat is soaked in you should get at least 4 coats out of the rest of the bottle.
Your nail method should work ok, if the weather is cool give the wudtone a bit more time to dry if you need to touch the stained area but presume you can rotate the body with the neck pocket.
Just get a 300mm long scrap piece of wood and screw it to 2 holes in the neck pocket - a handle and hanger will make life easier
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http://i.imgur.com/nvllS1x.jpg?2
Looking a bit washed out due to flash - but first coat is applied and just about cured. Will be applying coat 2 this arvo. :D
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Looking great Nick!
cheers,
Gav.
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looking sweet Nick after the 2nd coat, well done, the filler has paid off. So is this surfer girl or azure lagoon stain ? Ash timber does funny things to colours ! My ash strat in azure lagoon ended up green, I put a red pearloid pickguard on and called it the watermelon !
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Yeah this is a mix of surfer girl and azure. I added only a small amount (maybe 10% of azure to try and shift it but it really has turned more seafoam green.
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aye ;) she will be very pretty when done.
QUESTION:
The stain isn't penetrating to the grain beneath. I've just put the third coat on and it looks pretty much the same as coat two - especially on the upper cut - still looks like bear wood underneath.
How do I get it to penetrate? Just more coats or a rougher steel wooling? Any advice?
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Spatula, maybe?
Sorry Nick. I don't really have any sage advice on this. But even as it is the colour looks great. Are you wanting to not see the grain at all?
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I do want to see it- I just want all the wood to take the blue tone rather than bare wood showing through. So the higher grain takes a different hue of blue than the lower
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Update: The stain is finally penetrating some of the wells in the ash. On consultation with DB, more thin coats and more drying time is in order - so that is what will be happening.
Slow going - but it will be worth it!
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good stuff Nick. You have to be patient building axes in the cooler months. Get another build on the go so u can work on another build while the other dries/cures !
The colour will eventually get darker, lots of thin coats !
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Cheers Wokks! I'm thinking I might start preparing the neck in the next few days. Sanding up to 1000 will take a little while. My main problem now is finding something to shape the stock!
