Anyone tried doing a direct mount with the PitBull humbucker rout?? Cos I was just thinking that usually they have a shallower flat rout floor for the direct mounted pickups but I was wondering if it was possible to do on the PitBull kits too.
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Anyone tried doing a direct mount with the PitBull humbucker rout?? Cos I was just thinking that usually they have a shallower flat rout floor for the direct mounted pickups but I was wondering if it was possible to do on the PitBull kits too.
I don't see why it would be a problem, you'd just have to add some wood or increase the length of the spring + screws, because you're going to lose a lot of gain/output on the pickups when they are too far from the strings.
I was thinking that if I had to add wood, I may as well shim it perfectly to get a straight body mount. I was just wondering if anyone had tried it and I could do it without much extra work.
I've done it with my IB-1. I used foam tape like this http://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/..._Foam_Tape.jpgto pack under the pickups.
The routs aren't as neat as you would expect for top mounting, I used black shielding paint in the cavities instead of copper tape. http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...217_072655.jpg
Thanks for the tip Pablopepper. Do you know where I can get that kinda stuff?? Btw, nice IB-1. Blows mine out of the water. I like the Duncans (I'm guessing).
you can get the foam tape from hardware stores
Sounds great. Thanks!!
I got the shielding paint on eBay. It's messy, expensive stuff, but it serves it's purpose. Are you building an IB1?
You can also use high impact foam such as the stuff those exercise mat thingys are made out of.
Readily available from clark rubber or your local k mart/big doublya. I use this and the leftover makes a great work top protector for working on your axe.
If you dont want to use the expensive, messy and not very efficient shielding paint you can always use a matt black enamel paint over the copper tape.
Pablopepper, my IB-1 is done. This is for the next kit I intend to build.
DB, thanks!! I have a few of those mats lying around so Ill probably use that as a nice cheap and available solution. I also have some matt black aluminium foil thats pretty thick and works well for shielding pup cavities, so Ill probs use that and then copper tape for the control cavity.
Groovy! The black ally should work a treat :)
what kind of screws do you use for direct mounting the pups? I can never find wood screws thin enough to go through the pup holes.
I'd just use Amazon or eBay and look for 2mm (ideally pan-head) wood screws. Sometimes it's cheaper/easier just to buy a big mixed box of small screws
If you don't think you'll ever use the pickups again in a ring mount, then just enlarge the holes a bit. Or you may be able to drill a separate hole and keep the screw thread depending on the size of the mounting ears.
e.g. I bought these for replacing pickguard and control cavity cover mounting screws on a Gibson SG.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On my EX1 I drilled a few more holes on the mounting ears and used screws bought from Repco (Aussie Auto Parts Store) that were long enough and also thin enough to do the job. Local Bunnings store was less than 100m away and had nothing suitable.
Top mounting can also be done another way where you anchor a backing plate or bracket in the floor of PUP cavity, tap a thread same size as normal PUP height adjustment screws and then insert springs and it should work similar (but in reverse) to adjusting from top side mounting rings. I would also recommend using some high density foam to fill the gap between PUP cavity floor and PUP base plate so that it compresses when you lower PUP height and thus keeps it level and more stable.
Cheers, Waz
On my last build I ended up getting a box of 100 to get the 4 that I needed. #4, 1" wood screws fit the pup well, but are hard to find in hardware stores here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden