Phloggys PRS-1S

Well, after a number of misadventures my PRS-1S kit finally turned up! (Along with another t-shirt, thanks guys!)

Check this:

http://i.imgur.com/GcPCjlSh.jpg

But already I'm finding myself in need of advice. Once I started dialing in and looking at details I noticed some things.

The top seems to be cut quite roughly. I'd think it'd sand out OK, but the veneer is *really* thin, and I don't want to go to far with it. Also I haven't quite decided if it's adding to the character yet, so that's not so worrying.

http://i.imgur.com/Hcsi2sQh.jpg

But there's also this bit, which is clear through the capping. Is that fixable? Is it going to cause weirdness down the track with finishing? It's obviously never going to get smooth without sanding down the cap completely.

http://i.imgur.com/ZP3lsmCh.jpg

And then there's this:

http://i.imgur.com/GfzvDlqh.jpg

The glue spots don't worry me so much; there have been plenty of threads about dealing with those. But that crack looks pretty deep. Is it something I should worry about getting worse?

Spalted maple is derived from wood that has been 'infected' by fungi....hence you will usually find that the sanding process will leave you with a wood that doesn't present like basswood or ash or mahogany or even a maple or flamed maple top. This is normal.

The glue is normal.

Crack is not....

That's quite a big crack. Judging from the photo.

So no advice? Anyone?

Hi Phloggy

Shoot Adam an email if you are uncomfortable about the crack. As for the spalted top, that's perfectly normal....the Wudtone will 'fill' the undulations, but you can get some Maple Timbermate and fill these yourself if it is going to bother you. Spalted tops are beautiful but understand the wood is not consistent.

Oh yes, I spoke with DB about this one yesterday.

Firstly, I remind everyone on here that they can return any product they receive if they are not completely happy with it. You will get a refund or a replacement, whichever is your preference.

So, its up to you Phloggy. If you want this kit replaced or refunded, please send the whole kit back and we will send another one or refund you. You can even charge us the freight. (Send "Receiver pays").

As to whether this kit is faulty, I don;t think it is. The kits we sell are made at a very low cost, so we can sell them at a reasonable price. Because of this, there are always going to be issues with our kits, but that's part of the build process; to turn an inexpensive kit into a really beautiful instrument.

Yes, there's clearly a crack in the body that they've repaired in the factory and it's passed their QC.

If you want to return it Phloggy, flick me an email and I'll send you the details.

Build cancelled. I've boxed it back up and sent it back. The crack was just worrying me to much and I wasn't looking forward to building it, which is really the main point of buying kits. I also found another unglued crack in the back when I was packing it up, so I'm pretty confident this one was an aberration.

Oh well, now I get to wait for a new package for a couple of weeks! Everyone loves waiting for packages!

Sorry to see that your build is cancelled while you wait for a replacement, but I guess you'll much happier with it in the end... a guitar you're not happy with just won't get played.

Quote:

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Quote from phloggy on July 23, 2013, 08:35
I'd like to see a recommended wiring diagram included [...] I'm having a devil of a time trying to figure out which goes where on the PRS-1S.

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While you're waiting for your new package... you mentioned the above in the Quick Start thread, what aspect were you having trouble with?

Nothing really in particular, yet. It says on the product page it's the same wiring as an LP, but it's clearly not because there aren't as many knobs.

I hadn't opened any of the packets to see exactly what I had to work with, but if you Google "PRS Wiring Diagram" you'll end up with a million different circuits with different select switches, and mods and layouts and what have you. I'd have like to have been told "This one. This is the one you start with. You want to go ahead and use one of the others, fine, but if you make the wires go like this it'll work."

I'm sure I would have figured it out with a bit more of time spent actually trying to figure it out, but a starting point would have been nice. Even a page on the website with various wiring diagrams all in one place would work.

PRS use rotary switches and make them do complicated things, so you want to grab a diagram for a guitar with the layout you have, PRS diagrams are too complicated and you dont have the parts for them

Quote:

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/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on July 23, 2013, 14:55
PRS use rotary switches and make them do complicated things, so you want to grab a diagram for a guitar with the layout you have, PRS diagrams are too complicated and you dont have the parts for them

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Y'see, that's the issue. Not all of them.

http://www.musicshopper.ca/wp-conten...ana-Yellow.jpg

Hi Phloggy,
attached is a wiring diagram, I built a PRS-1S a few months ago and pretty sure I used this diagram, the configuration of the PRS-1S is 2 humbuckers, 3 way switch, 1 volume, 1 tone.
You have at least 2 weeks to study it !
Bummer about having to return the axe but in the long run it will be worth it.

Just beware glue on the cap, give it a wipe down with a damp cloth the glue should show up if there's any on the cap

good luck !
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content..._1t_3w-PRS.jpg

Its the same wiring as the EX-1 kit, which we have a full video on. Plus a wiring diagram (which is the same as the one Wokka has provided above).

Thanks guys!