-
I've been trying to steal as much time as I can to get some sanding in, but my weekends always seem to be full and it's too cold at the moment to be out in the garage at night.
The front and the back of the guitar are coming up fine, but you can just sand with the grain. The sides are doing well, but but I'm not happy with the tail end and the neck end where I'm sanding the end grain of the slabs of body timber.
Is there a trick to sanding the end grain so it comes out as smooth as the rest of the body? Or is it just going to be elbow grease and lots of hard work?
Also one of the pieces of basswood in the body is visually more porous than the others. I assume this means it will probably soak up more Wudtone? Is there anything I can do to ensure a more even finish?
I post photos, but I don't have a camera capable of the kind of close up required.
-
Wudtone does get an even finish on the porous wood
For the tail end, go from the side of the strap button hole and go up towards the neck
-
Hey Fretworn.
Only this last weekend I was going through the same issue. One of the resident sanding experts would probably have some good advice, but I certainly found that with the end grain sections, I got a better result by using one way strokes.
If you are sanding back and forth across the end grain, it appears that you will keep opening the end up and dragging sawdust back into it. The same applies for sanding in the curves Start on the outside, go down into the dip, but not through the dip (do those from the other direction).
I possibly have not explained this well at all and someone who loves sanding (like DB) might have a better way to describe it (or may also point out if I am wrong).
-
May also be worthwhile dropping back a grain or two in sandpaper - I had deep tool marks on the end of my bass - dropped back to 120 grit, then back up 180, 220, etc when they were gone.
-
I did what Brendan suggested and dropped back to a lower grit sand paper. I found that the base had streaks on it...marked from where the wood was cut - so I actually dropped back to 80 grit (cause it was lying around) and then worked back up to 220 - much better. I wasn't too scientific about the direction I sanded, but I tried to be consistent.
-
Yep, check Dingo Bass's tag - there's always a way...
-
For a solid body guitar: technically sanding across the endgrain (think of the guitar laying flat on its back and sanding left and right) then you are sanding cross grain. If the guitar was on its back sanding in an up and down motion would be more correct - think of sanding with the grain along the top and rounding over the rear edge in the same movement (does that all make sense?).
Also end grain, by its nature will sometimes take on more colour and occasionally look darker
-
Hi guys,
I found the following you tube clip pretty useful when sanding end grain and non-flat areas of my 335. Maybe it will give some useful tips.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxf9HVScCDg
cheers,
Gavin.
-
Awesome Gav, i'll use that vid for when i do mine, thanks
-
Hey guys,
I have an LP-1m kit and when received it had tiny cracks on the side of the guitar. Now, over the ast
-
Hey guys,
I have an LP-1m kit and when received it had tiny cracks on the side of the guitar. Now, over the last 2 months, it these cracks have gotten a lot bigger, especially in the past week but have only noticed it today.
Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this, I am using nitro as a finish and sealer before hand so would the sealer fix them?
I don't know how to upload photos so if anyone has advice, could you let me know?
Thanks
-
Hi LPBuild1 ... whereabouts are you located? if it's in an area where you get big humidity changes (e.g. the tropics or near them) you'll find that unsealed timber will reflect the humidity changes ... small cracks and checks will open and close as the humidity drops and raises ... this is particularly more a problem for faster, kiln dried timbers rather than ones that have been sitting seasoning naturally for several years.
If this is the cause then you might be able to "close them up" by re-humidifying the timber before stabilising (i.e. sealing it with a finish) - might work and well worth trying
... otherwise its filler and sanding smooth - which is the easier and quicker option and to be honest shouldn't be problem if you're going to be using nitro as the filler wont show through the solid-colour of nitro like it would through the transparency of Wudtone.
... however, considering his experience with these particular bodies, DB should have some sagacious advice on dealing with Basswood and its characteristics.
-
Oh ... P.S. to post photos, don't use the "submit quick reply" button on the bottom left, but use the Reply link on the bottom right (in the blue box with Subscribe and RSS feed) ... it'll take you to new page with all the "smiley options" :D and three address boxes to upload photos from.
Cheers.
-
ok coo thanks, im just to let you know its a mahogany body so that would make sense. I live in sydney but humidity has bren up and down a lot in the past week.
i will add some photos this arvo
where eould i buy cheap grain filler for mahogany? Thanks a loy for saving me :)
-
-
Hey LP, those are classic humidity cracks...
As you plan on finishing the body wit Nitro, I would get some thin super glue and flood the cracks.
This will bond the timber and should stabilise the cracks.
Then use Timbermate filler, sand smooth and apply your finish.
-
Ok cool thanks for the help DB, much appreciated :)
