Neck & Fretboard finishes?

Hi all,

Still in planning stages of my TL-1 build. I've got most of it sorted in my head, but I'm just tossing around neck finishes.

I'm thinking about leaving the neck unfinished. I quite like the feel of it as is (although it's a bit tough to judge without it being connected to a body and all), so I was just going to sand it down pretty fine and leave it. That includes the back and sides of the headstock as well.

While I know it's entirely my choice to do what I'd like, is there any reason to not do this? I imagine it'd "gunk up", but aside from that?

Also, any recommendations regarding the fretboard? A good oil up with lemon oil? Leave it alone? Slather it with old house paint?

Yeah, leaving it will leave all the gunk from your fingers on it...
Best shot is to use lemon oil, I used some of my Fender guitar polish on my Epiphone LP Junior and it doesn't work as well, but it still works!

The neck Wood breathes....if you allow it the full range without slowing it down your wood will warp in time....
best to seal it. If you like the 'colour' then use Wudtone-Colourless....

The fretboard should be oiled lightly. I use Dr Ducks Axe Wax!

If your fretboard has binding on it, then you can use something that is different to Wudtone, if the fretboard doesnt have binding, then you will pretty much be left with using Wudtone to seal it!

Hey Phloggy,

I would recommend using a neck finishing kit, and a wax for the finger board as Gavin suggested.

You can use the body colour on the neck, and go over it with the neck finish top coat or you can choose from one of the complete neck finishing kits.

If you need to know more about the Wudtone range, feel free to email me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com

Hang on, using Wudtone AND Axe Wax???
How does the Axe Wax handle the dried top coat???

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Quote from keloooe on April 19, 2013, 18:22
Hang on, using Wudtone AND Axe Wax???
How does the Axe Wax handle the dried top coat???

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Wudtone on the neck and Axe Wax on the fretboard!

Oooohhhhhh, DB had me confused there....
Guitar polish makes my LP Juniors fretboard look a bit glossy, made the frets a bit shinier!

Yeah, I'm beginning to think that Wudtone's the answer for the neck at least.

What does it feel like? Does it keep that "woody" feel?

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Quote from phloggy on April 19, 2013, 21:23
Yeah, I'm beginning to think that Wudtone's the answer for the neck at least.

What does it feel like? Does it keep that "woody" feel?

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In one word... Yes :P

A trick I picked up from working at Zenith Music is to periodically use Bore Oil on a rosewood fingerboard. Bore oil is used to seal the inside chamber of wooden clarinets from excess moisture, and a small amount rubbed into a rosewood fingerboard brings it up a treat and protects it. Some folk think lemon oil can be a bit harsh, but I have never had a problem with the Gilly Stephenson's Lemon Oil.

El

bore Oil!? Any tips on ebony?

Thanks for sharing that info!

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Quote from Gavin1393 on April 24, 2013, 19:34
bore Oil!? Any tips on ebony?

Thanks for sharing that info!

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Dr Ducks is great on Ebony...

Yeah DB, that's what I use on all my fretboards.

two questions:

1. how to remove neck finish from fretboard edge if you don't mask it ( as shown in the video )?
2. what to use on the fretboard Axe Wax or wudtone colorless ( if so, how much? One coat?, steel wool? )

MB

Steel wool 0000 grade should remove finish from the edge of the fretboard. If not rub it gently and carefully with 180-240 grit sandpaper.
Unless you want to make your guitar difficult to play I would only be using Axe Wax on the fretboard.....

brilliant! Thanks. It made no sense to me that you would stain the fretboard, but in the Wudtone neck instructions is does say in one place to put it on the fretboard. Thus my confusion!

Wow.... Thanks for pointing that out... will have to remove that from the instructions!

Is there something I can stain the fretboard with to make it darker ?

Maple or Rosewood (I'm guessing Rosewood), and how much darker do you want it?

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/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on July 23, 2013, 20:11
Wow.... Thanks for pointing that out... will have to remove that from the instructions!

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it's actually here:

http://www.wudtone.com/forum/wp-cont...uitar-Neck.pdf

two references on the first page related to application to the fingerboard, one ambiguous at best, and the other just seems strange.

Rosewood fretboard and as dark as possible without completely losing the grain

As most of would know (or guess), if not treated (i.e. varnished, oiled, etc.) all timber will "fade" somewhat from its initial and lustrous post-milled state ... even if not exposed to sunlight and the elements - primarily because the naturally occurring oils in the timber will evaporate over time with along with the moisture content of the timber (tho' at much slower rate) ... and it's a stabilised moisture content that give timber instruments most of their tonal qualities (especially acoustic but also electrified instruments)

... I know I'm not telling any of you anything you don't already know, but its a lead into the following ...

someone mentioned "bore oil" (as in the bore of a woodwind instrument like clarinet - not an engine bore that I though of when I first came across the term! :D ) ... and from most reports bore oil seem to be the traditional "treatment of choice" for timber instruments.

Tim - I've got the same quandary as you with the rosewood fingerboard on my SG not being anywhere near as dark as Id prefer (or expect) ... primarily (but not totally) due to the timber having faded somewhat. In an effort to find the best solution rather than just the easiest I did come across some very interesting information and products ...

"Bore Doctor" and "Fret Doctor" - don't be confused as I was until I spoke with their creator, they are exactly the same product just with different labels to market to different clientele (woodwind-ers as opposed to guitarists).

DISCLAIMER - I haven't used this product myself (yet) and would be very interested to hear from someone who has - but nearly all the talk on int'l (i.e. USA) forums rave about the stuff! Nor have I been able track down anyone in Aust who seels the stuff retail tho that doesn't mean there no-one out there! ... let me know if you know of someone

A very interesting analysis of oils for timber instruments can found here ...

http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm

... and if you're considering buying some I'd buy it from his site as his prices are the same as the products creator but his postage costs to Aust are incredibly cheaper!

The website of the creator (the Doctor, himself and woodwind specialist) is here ... http://doctorsprod.com/cbuy/

... if you're in the mood for shock check out his postage prices! (that why I'd suggest the first site for a purchase). Have spoken direct with the doctor and he's not adverse to (conditionally) selling it in bulk quantities for people to on-sell (something I've been considering solely to make a good product more readily available)

As I said if anyone's heard about this or had experience with it I'd like to hear your thoughts before I mortgage the missus to get a bottle (yes the postage is not cheap at all for some unknown reason) ... or if someone else buys a large amount is looking for a taker of some of it, count me in!.

I hope this rather long-winded post at least provides some interest

Cheers!

Hmmmmm. I was going to use Dr Ducks Axe Wax until I read your post Scott.

I would definitely be interested in the opinions of the experts around here!

Cheers,
Rohan.

Go for Dr Ducks. It is a well known and widely used product and you can get it practically every where and it is usually reasonably priced and a tin will last forever!

Love the Dr Ducks - couple of drops and you're done...

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Quote from Brendan on August 24, 2013, 18:59
Love the Dr Ducks - couple of drops and you're done...

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Just don't spill it on your pants. They'll never be the same!

If the guru's swear by Dr Ducks then hardly seems worth to split the difference between it and bore oil (e.g. fret doctor) ... which I'd be surprised if in the long there's really going to be that much difference ... except in the price and convenience factors in favour of Dr Ducks


... and dare I ask ...

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Just don't spill it on your pants. They'll never be the same!

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... just what "wood" were you trying to preserve?

... no, on second thoughts I'm not even going to think about! :D