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This is a PitBull Flamed MAple Les Paul Build
This photograph is after applying the first coat of the 'Deep Colour' after sanding down to 600 (instructions said 400 grit - but I didn't have any!)
Now to either decide to apply more 'Deep Colour' to darken the shade of Black or to let it cure the 4-5 days and then get to work on the 'Base Coat'.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...mt793-BMW1.gif
I like your hi-tech "mounting system" there Gavin, are they picture hooks? Reminds me of our system of occy straps, wood screws and cable ties in the painting video.
The black looks fantastic, I'd be adding another coat, sanding it back and then lacquering, but I am both lazy and impatient. DingoBass is your man for Wudtone tips (and Andy from Wudtone, obviously).
More deep base coats!Quote:
Quote from adam on December 21, 2012, 17:18
I like your hi-tech "mounting system" there Gavin, are they picture hooks? Reminds me of our system of occy straps, wood screws and cable ties in the painting video.
The black looks fantastic, I'd be adding another coat, sanding it back and then lacquering, but I am both lazy and impatient. DingoBass is your man for Wudtone tips (and Andy from Wudtone, obviously).
you will find that 2 or 3 deep colour base coats will really bring out the flame.....
You don't need to leave it for any longer than 24 hours at the base coat stage, When you get to the finish coats 48 hours is the time frame between coats.
Looking fantastic Gavin!
I too love your high tech approach to holding your Axe :P
HI Guys, Adams suggestion about sanding back is how you get that increased contrast Bengal tiger thing going on. Dark Onyx ( or Black Magic Woman) first sand back and something like Goldenrod, Saffron, Hot Auburn , Carmine Gypsy, Azure Lagoon, Emerald Isle to produce a higher contrast flamed result.Quote:
Quote from adam on December 21, 2012, 17:18
I like your hi-tech "mounting system" there Gavin, are they picture hooks? Reminds me of our system of occy straps, wood screws and cable ties in the painting video.
The black looks fantastic, I'd be adding another coat, sanding it back and then lacquering, but I am both lazy and impatient. DingoBass is your man for Wudtone tips (and Andy from Wudtone, obviously).
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...674-bengal.jpg
Hi Chaps - I am thinking of using the BMW or the black onyx for my Gibson 335 look-alike - the BMW in this thread looks a bit light - which is the blacker of the two please?
Pedro
Hey Pedro,
The BMW is black, the DO is more of a blue black.
If you want the pits of hell look for your axe, really pile the first BMW deep colour coat on. I mean saturate it until it wont take any more!.. and dont forget to wipe with the grain to remove any swirl marks.
Let it dry for a minimum of two days, DO NOT steel wool, and repeat until she can take no more.
When you are convinced that Satan himself would get lost in the darkness, give it a light steel wool and begin the base coats.
Hi Pedro,Quote:
Quote from pedro on April 18, 2013, 14:59
Hi Chaps - I am thinking of using the BMW or the black onyx for my Gibson 335 look-alike - the BMW in this thread looks a bit light - which is the blacker of the two please?
Pedro
the website says BMW is the darkest of the wudtone range
"Our darkest, possibly sexiest kit yet, with both pigment and dyes to create some black magic. Kit includes: Deep colour coat, Base coat, Top coat ( please choose satin, extra gloss option below), Gloves, and Instructions."
I'm yet to see Dark Onyx on a guitar as some of the samples of the colours on the webiste are poor and hard to judge as they aren't on a guitar.
Might be worth waiting for DB to confirm, the wudtone man himself !
Great stuff - thanks Wokka and Db - and thanks for the info on the wire wool - very valuable.
Cheers, Pete
Yes, that would look cool as on the Les Pest...Quote:
Quote from dingobass on April 18, 2013, 15:12
Hey Pedro,
The BMW is black, the DO is more of a blue black.
EDIT: I was talking about the DO, it looked more appealing to me for the colour I'm looking for, the BMW, looked a bit too black for me...
Hi Pedro, I used Dark Onyx on my build. If you want to see pictures you can check out my build diary:
http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=4...iewtopic&t=156
Here are the promised pictures of the LP after being put through the buffer.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...d-IMGP2342.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...x-IMGP2344.JPG
[quote]Quote from Gavin1393 on April 21, 2013, 15:30
Here are the promised pictures of the LP after being put through the buffer.
Looks fantastic 8-)
Looking good Gav :)
Being a bit of a masochist I don't have a buffing wheel and choose to do everything by hand.
I have been hand rubbing Maguires Scratch-X to get a smooth finish on my Tru-Oil'ed headstock. Scratch-X is a very light cutting compound. Do you think it would be suitable to lightly cut a Wudtone high gloss finish? I know logic says to try it somewhere where it won't show, but it's a guitar for goodness sake, and if it ruins the surface there is really nowhere to hide.
Any advice appreciated.
Cheers
rob
Not having used that product before I can't comment either way. Certainly the StewMac polish I used with the buffer over the Wudtone has worked wonderfully. I was scared as hell doing it for the first time!
Meh, all of a sudden a satin or low gloss finish is looking good to me. I'm not quite sure how to burnish a finish, haven't tried DB's copy paper trick yet, but that might be another avenue to persue, if I ever get it put together properly.
Thanks anyway mate,
rob
I did find this on another forum:-
"Due to some developments which were posted on the UMGF as of February 29, we are for the moment no longer suggesting Meguiars Scratch-X for the buffing out procedure nor any other Meguiars products for this process pending further review."
Havent found out why as yet.....
Thanks for the info Gavin, too late for the headstock but I will keep it well away from the body. I have done endless hours of research on the Internet, and not once did I come across that one. I must have googled every possible combination except the right one of course. :?Quote:
Quote from Gavin1393 on April 22, 2013, 13:19
I did find this on another forum:-
"Due to some developments which were posted on the UMGF as of February 29, we are for the moment no longer suggesting Meguiars Scratch-X for the buffing out procedure nor any other Meguiars products for this process pending further review."
Havent found out why as yet.....
And of course there is a place to try it on a Strat body, under the pick guard.
Cheers mate
rob
ok - here's what I discovered. Apparently most of the Meguiars product line contains silicon which causes the guitar finish to go milky/hazy. I think this only happens if the surface is damaged in some way. Makes repairing the guitar very difficult too.
Some Meguiars products like Swirl Remover apparently do not contain silicon and would definitely be a better bet than the Scratch-X product if if does contain silicon.
Thanks again Gavin. Yeah I knew to avoid anything with Silicon, so i checked the label for contents before buying and it had no mention of Silicon. Perhaps its some hidden ingredient.
I might do further research on their web site. I checked the bottle and its actually Scratch-X 2. The 2 probably indicates twice the amount of Silicon lol.
rob
I find that if I leave the body for a month to fully cure, a light buff with 0000 grade steel wool and then half a ream of reflex paper gives me a nice high gloss....
Masochistic AND anally retentive......... :?
Really? Half a ream? How do you grip all that paper at once? :PQuote:
Quote from dingobass on April 22, 2013, 18:14
I find that if I leave the body for a month to fully cure, a light buff with 0000 grade steel wool and then half a ream of reflex paper gives me a nice high gloss....
Masochistic AND anally retentive......... :?
Really? Half a ream? How do you grip all that paper at once? :P [/quote]
DB has some nifty clamps that would hold a full ream of a4. Waiting a month DB that's a good test of patience. Better have at least 5 other projects on the go. I got a scratch body that's been curing for over 2 weeks. Might give your technique a go 1800 DB