Understanding "Mock Build".

all.

with this Mock Build, does this mean what we think in that a total build is completed to see if everything fits where it is supposed to to then dismantle and finish with paint, oil or stain to finish build with, after all finishes dry, to reassemble the Guitar and then we have our Project in a DIY Guitar completed?

Supposed to be some good weather for the rest of this week to put in some good time working on our IB-5 Bass Guitar.

So far already lost a screw that holds the Bridge down and we'll have to use a spare screw from our RC Rock Crawlers as is same diameter, just a little bit shorter. The only other screws we have of same diameter and length are Metal Screws and we don't think this would be good. So, we think to put the shorter screw from the RC Crawlers in the Middle of the Bridge instead of the sides. Less Pressure on the Screw in the Middle as has all the other 5 screws to help with the Load.

Try and find that screw tomorrow, in the light!

Yes.

a "mock build" serves to make sure that you know where everything goes and how it all "goes together" as well as making sure you have all the bits.

It also gives you a chance to see where you need to do a little sanding (sometimes, apparently, there's a "glue spot" left over from the manufacturing process, for example).

I'd look for the missing screw before you put in the shorter one.
I'd even suggest taking one of the screws to a hardware shop to get another one (packet) if the missing screw isn't found.

How close to a "total build" a person does is up to the builder. Minimally you want to make sure that everything fits properly, and everything is complete before you start. This is why some folks refer to it as a "dry fit." It's a chance to check the neck pocket and to make sure everything lines up. And, as you both have noted, to make sure you are not missing something.

For sure I try to do enough of a dry fit to make sure...

...that the strings to line up over the fretboard properly.
...that the strings to line up over the pickups properly.
...that I can mount the bridge to give the proper scale length.
...that I can get the there is sufficient adjustment in the bridge to get the string height over the fretboard correct.
...the tuning machines are the proper size and are spaced properly.

Opinions vary as to whether you should drill, and whether you should actually screw things down at dry fit. Most often this relates to the kind of finish that you plan to use.

I typically don't drill or screw things down. This is partly because I tend to use water based finishes, and at some point do a wet-sand. I don't like to have holes where water can get under the finish. The danger in NOT drilling prior to finishing is that you can get cracks or chips in the finish when you drill after the finish has cured. There are ways to avoid this problem (like stuffing some painter's tape in the holes), but typically don't do this, which means I have to be very careful when I drill.

Some people like to do all the drilling before finishing. For them a dry fit where you screw down the parts is more practical. There is not much risk of water getting under the finish if you are using spirit or oil based finishes.

Spirit based stains and sealers tend to penetrate the wood well and don't tend to raise the wood grain. Oil based finishes also don't tend to raise the grain and also tend to be more self-leveling. The only real downside that I can see to them is that they tend to be more toxic, they have a more pronounced smell as they dry/cure, and the products used to clean up have the same issues.

I use water based products and shellac (the latter is spirit based) purely because they are less toxic and I tend to work indoors. It is too hot and humid to work outside here with most products.

thanks fender3x.
you make very good points for a newbie to pay attention to.
with our IB-5, we are going to Paint it, after the primer, with Bright Red and finish up with Polyurethane coat. still some more saning to make super smooth finish.

the missing screw is nowhere to be found so we have ordered something very similar from ebay but plan to go to hardware later today or tomorrow as can have a better look at the screws to buy in hardware than on the computer screen from ebay.

Oh, yeah! The screws... I forgot to mention that I generally throw away the screws that come with the kit. They tend to be pretty low quality. If you break or strip a screw (particularly with a very hard wood body or neck like ash or maple) it can be a huge, messy thing to deal with. So I tend to replace all the screws that come with my kit with stainless steel screws. It's not very expensive, but a big upgrade IMHO.

thanks for the info Fender3x. we will look into this. screws don't cost much but they cost a lot when they fail. we have experienced this in the past where standard screws fail, which you use for they are supplied thinking that they are of proper strength and quality to find out that the screws lose their thread or strip the heads too easily.
we do planning on predrilling but not to full thickness, only the thickness of the screw minus the thread and then a little bit more for we wanted tight fit but we don't want to snap a screw putting into hard wood.
we have maple neck on our IB-5, so we probably will go and upgrade screws later on today.
Only problem is that we have all black hardware, and don't know how would look with SS screws, may find some Black Oxide screws instead.
agabnin, thanks for the tip Fender3x.

Good to know..... I hadn't thought of it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fender3x

Oh, yeah! The screws... I forgot to mention that I generally throw away the screws that come with the kit. They tend to be pretty low quality. If you break or strip a screw (particularly with a very hard wood body or neck like ash or maple) it can be a huge, messy thing to deal with. So I tend to replace all the screws that come with my kit with stainless steel screws. It's not very expensive, but a big upgrade IMHO.

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Good to know ..... I hadn't thought of it (but I've had quite a few "snapped screws" over the years).

When you build you often tend to assemble and disassemble multiple times during the build. At least I do. Then if you change parts, you do it some more. The Phillips heads on poor quality screws just won't put up with that, particularly in hard wood. When I *have* gone ahead with kit screws I have generally come to regret it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EsquireEsque

Good to know ..... I hadn't thought of it (but I've had quite a few "snapped screws" over the years).

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You should only need to snap or strip the head of one to know you need better ones ;) :D

I often feel like I have an angel on one shoulder that is saying "don't rush, be patient, think about what you are doing to do before you do it." On the other shoulder is one saying "I'm sure it's dry enough, it'll go in fine if you just apply a bit more force, just get it overwith"

very late comment, but we went and bought larger Bridge screws at 3.? mm so are larger than the original but still fit into the hardware.

we have gone and completely built the IB-5 except the electronics as we will do this after the finish is... well... finished.

we have painted in bright red, done 1 coat of Polyurethane and we are trying to work out the best way to put an image on the back of the guitar. not being able to draw is a problem but we print things on the computer, but... we only have black toner printer, so not colour. we have been thinking of tri-colour stripes but we will see what we come up with.

so many ideas once you start the build all things jump in your head, or would that be the illnesses talking? Who knows but it has been all good thus far.

Will be looking forward to seeing pics! Sounds like it's coming along nicely. Bigger screws are often a good idea as long as they fit the hardware.