1st DIY Build and never touched a guitar before, Terminology?

howdy all.
we are building a IB-5 Bass Guitar and we have never built a Guitar before let alone play one.
with this mock build, which we are up to, we have a problem in finding where the Bridge goes and we quote the following from the manual which makes no sense to us Synth Twiddler...


If you measure from the inside (face) of the nut to the top of the 12th fret, then double that
measurement, you will have the scale length of your neck.


Once we find where the Bridge goes, our Build is pretty much done except for the final touches and making the Bass Guitar look all pretty in Red.

Info greatly appreciated.

we figured out that this has to do with Placement of the Bridge.


34″ Scale with 24 medium jumbo frets


so would we be correct if we fit the bridge twice the distance from the 12th fret to where the scale of 34" lands?
Also, the 12th fret is the 12th fret from the Nut?

Hi,

Measure from the inside of the nut (the fretboard side) along to where the saddle will be for the highest string (you are basically measuring along where the string would be if it were there).

at 38" that's where that saddle should be.
It's the same as measuring the distance from the inside of the nut to the 12 fret (as this is half the distance) and then doubling it. This is done in case you do not know what the scale length is.... but as you know it's 38" you can use that.... although you could make sore by making sure it's 17" from the inside of the nut to the centre ov the 12th fret...

thanks. a lot! very good explanation and now we know where we are heading.
we have been searching for terminology as never been around instruments other than for Electronic Music Instruments.
an idea for someone, not us, but for those as us who do not know everything about guitar/bass guitar could be an glossary, or index of parts what they do and what to do with them. Or is it expected that we know all there is to build a DIY Bass Guitar?
just an idea...
the Pitbull Guitars manual expects you to know everything about a guitar and the name of every part and where they are and what they do.
similar difference from a Gregory's Car Manual and a Proper Workshop Manual for a Mechanic. where one is for the DIY market and the other is a Trade tool.

EE gave good advice...but 34" not 38"

It'll be 34" from where the string leaves the nut, to where the string leaves the saddle on the highest string, which on an EB5 is G string (and is also the thinnest).

If you measure from the 12th fret (the one with the double dots behind it) you measure from the center of the fret to the place where the string comes off of the saddle.

Here are a few diagrams to help with the parts of the instrument. I think you have a 5 string bass. The pics show a 4 string but it's basically the same.

You are correct that the manual assumes a minimum knowledge of guitar anatomy and maybe a little knowledge of tools and assembly techniques. However, the forum does not assume this, so keep asking your questions here! Most of us knew very little when we started... In my case I knew even less than I thought. You pick things up along the way ;-)

Attachment 45481

Note that what are called "Tuning pegs" below and "tuning head" or "machine heads" for some reason have many names. The can be called:

Tuners*
Tuning pegs
Tuning machines
Machine heads
Tuning heads


Attachment 45482

BTW, the "Headstock" can also be referred to as the "Peg head" or "tuning head"...but most frequently headstock.

Attachment 45483

What is called the "bridge bar" is more commonly called the "saddle" or "bridge saddle." It's bar shaped on most Fender basses, and I think on your IB5, more generically (and almost always on this forum) it is called a saddle.

I didn't find a better pic than the one above, but what they refer to as a "tone and volume controls" we would refer to on the form as "tone and volume potentiometers" (or pots for short).

Hope this helps!

thanks fender3x, we couldn't find info as good as this.
what we are up to now is the mock build and the photos will show where we come to at 34".

can not upload photos at the moment as computer is complaining photos are too large so will have to appease the pc and decrease size of photos.

TBC...

we will start to have a good look at the Pick ups as if you drop them into the cavities, they sit odd due to sitting on the wires. but we think this is where the long screws and springs come in.

been a lot of fun this build. something different from the norm is always refreshing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fender3x

EE gave good advice...but 34" not 38"

It'll be 34" from where the string leaves the nut, to where the string leaves the saddle on the highest string, which on an EB5 is G string (and is also the thinnest).

If you measure from the 12th fret (the one with the double dots behind it) you measure from the center of the fret to the place where the string comes off of the saddle.

Here are a few diagrams to help with the parts of the instrument. I think you have a 5 string bass. The pics show a 4 string but it's basically the same.

You are correct that the manual assumes a minimum knowledge of guitar anatomy and maybe a little knowledge of tools and assembly techniques. However, the forum does not assume this, so keep asking your questions here! Most of us knew very little when we started... In my case I knew even less than I thought. You pick things up along the way ;-)

Attachment 45481

Note that what are called "Tuning pegs" below and "tuning head" or "machine heads" for some reason have many names. The can be called:

Tuners*
Tuning pegs
Tuning machines
Machine heads
Tuning heads


Attachment 45482

BTW, the "Headstock" can also be referred to as the "Peg head" or "tuning head"...but most frequently headstock.

Attachment 45483

What is called the "bridge bar" is more commonly called the "saddle" or "bridge saddle." It's bar shaped on most Fender basses, and I think on your IB5, more generically (and almost always on this forum) it is called a saddle.

I didn't find a better pic than the one above, but what they refer to as a "tone and volume controls" we would refer to on the form as "tone and volume potentiometers" (or pots for short).

Hope this helps!

---

.


... I knew I'd get something wrong!

(Ihope LU recognised the error...)

thanks again fender3x,
only difference we see is that the pick ups are different position, and of course the 4 strings instead of our 5 strings.
so, all is measured up to be drilling the screws to mount the bridge plate as we found the 34" measurement.

just a question while we are here... the 2 pickups require 4 screws each and we find 8 long screws packaged with 8 springs. would these springs be to raise or lower our pick ups into the body of the Guitar as in Suspension for the pickups and to lift the pick ups from the wires out of the pick ups so the pick ups sit level?

this is where we are at.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Left Unnamed

...

just a question while we are here... the 2 pickups require 4 screws each and we find 8 long screws packaged with 8 springs. would these springs be to raise or lower our pick ups into the body of the Guitar as in Suspension for the pickups and to lift the pick ups from the wires out of the pick ups so the pick ups sit level?
...

---

Yes, the springs raise the pickups off the cavity base, and allow you to adjust the distance of the pickups from the strings.

thanks Trevor.
we are slowly learning about this weird stringed instrument that they call a Bass Guitar and what makes it work.
we've listen to death metal for 32yrs, but never had any interest in playing any interest.
when we were heavily involved with Electronic music is what drew us toward Bass Guitar for we prefer Rhythm over melody.
so, listening to Slamming Brutal Guttural Death Metal and Electronic music don't mix, but they do.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EsquireEsque

.


... I knew I'd get something wrong!

(Ihope LU recognised the error...)

---

In the words of the great Ronald Reagan: "If you are right 98% of the time, who cares about the other 6%?"

hody all.

build is complete except for stringing up to IB-5.

we have a problem... our strings we are using are to think to fit trough where the strings fit through in the bridge. most of the string fits, but is very tight but the problem comes when you get to the end of the string where wire of the string is wrapped around the mount that terminates the string at the bridge.

this can not be changed in any way as we built this guitar especially for these strings. the Strings are Ernie Ball Power Slinky Bass 5 at 50/70/85/105/135 string gauges.

the only fix that we can see is that we drill our the Bridge to accept the larger gauge string.

Anyone see a problem with this?

Hi L.U.
I cannot recall this being a problem before! Redrilling the string holes at the back of the bridge should be OK. I cannot see a problem!

howdy and thanks T D.
we ended up drilling just enough to fit the larger gauge strings.

we fit the strings and go to tune the Bass Guitar... and... no sound.

bad wiring we will check up on the morrow.

only sound from amp was when pulled the 1/4" TR cable out of the Jack. Massive feedback through amp, so at least the amp works...

If you cannot see the problem, post some pictures (closeups) of the wiring and soldering and we may be able to help out!

For future reference - I would normally do a tap test with a screwdriver to test the pickups and circuit before I put on the strings. I use a battery powered "toy" amp for this test. That way I can problem solve issues while I'm in the circuit building and soldering mode .

Reading other diaries for the IB-5, the jack connections often cause an issue! Possibly check this first.

Apparently, the Pitbull diagram for the jack pin connections is wrong! See https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post224011.

Also, post https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post211958

thanks TC, we will check these out as is rather frustrating.

we will attach a photo as best we can below.

is very messy, we usually wire much better and intend to tomorrow as we desolder everything and start over again.

Attachment 45508

howdy TD, we are experiencing the exact same problems as pappajer. he used the same wiring diagram that we used.

we will do more searching as the information supplied to build this IB-5 is Incorrect.



https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post211958

Heya TD...

another problem we have is this mentioning of a battery being connected to the audio jack.

we never came across anything that said a battery was needed.

But, the Audio Jack in that Forum Entry is the one we have.


https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...4&d=1620902260

No battery is needed. The battery/power tab is to be left blank.

I'm not sure, but the picture looks like the solder and pot legs are touching the copper shielding! If that is true it could be the problem!

true Trevor, we do think we are touching on the copper shielding.

we, stupidly, have been rushing this build as we desperately need to start playing or we will lose interest and end up throwing the Bass in the Bin.

so, in our rush, we have ended up causing ourselves to take longer time to do the job if we had of taken our time and built this Bass properly, and carefully, in the first place.

the wiring is messy, usually we don't wire like this but we are not used to wiring and soldering in cavities, which is a big difference to wiring and soldering on our RC Rock Crawlers.

heya Trevor, we cleared up any concern with the copper shielding.

seems as though we have the same problem as others with the wrong wiring diagram being supplied by suppliers.

is there any way of knowing, as we are not a master guitar builder, how are we supposed to wire this Bass Guitar, the IB-5, with the parts supplied.

the wiring diagram that is wrong has been in place for a long time, why would this wrong build diagram still be supplied as the way to wire up this bass guitar.

Trevor, do you know of where we could perhaps find the PROPER wiring Diagram for our IB-5, or any wiring diagram for any guitar, is there such a place as we have been searching and we come up with nothing more than the wrong diagram.

thanks all, if maybe anyone...?

Hi L.U.

From what I can make out, the only errors on the Pitbull wiring diagram are:

1. Earth to jack connection - it should be the connection to the right of the "short hot wire connection" when viewed from the back of the plug (NOT the left as shown on the diagram!)

2. The first lugs on the volume pots should be soldered to back of those pots (those solder joints are not shown as a red dot). I would solder a very short link of wire from the lug to the back of the pot (rather than bend the lug!).

PS: I would normally do most of the soldering with the volume and tone pots out of the guitar. I use a small wooden board to keep the pots in place (see the link below). Place them in the cavity once finished. Then solder the pup and jack wires.

Wire harness Link: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post203343

howdy TD.

your wiring looks pristine. very clear.

we are going to have to strip all our wiring and start from the beginning, following the way you have your wiring.

when the kit says that the wiring/soldering level is advanced, we thought this odd as the diagram showed very clearly how to wire the electronics. the only thing wring with this kit and the description of how to build this kit has been the wiring of the electronics, which is, as we see it, the most important part to do with building an electronic instrument

thanks again TD.

Don't follow my actual wiring, as that was for a FB-1 kit! It also has a 3-way switch (not shown) in the circuit. Follow the idea of doing the circuit out of the control cavity.

Still follow the Pitbull IB-5 wiring diagram from their website. Just switch the ground wire on the jack and solder the bent lugs onto the back of the volume pots. Everything else is fine!

Thanks TD,

but...

need to buy new pots. trying to bend the lugs to the back of the pots saw great damage as circuit board broke on both volume pots.

we are going to get someone to supply and fit the electronics as the Jack is also damaged beyond repair trying to remedy some work based on a dodgy wiring diagram.

thank you to whomever posted this Crap wiring diagram for the IB - 5 as this has cost us more than we were planning on with this Bass Guitar build.

thank you very much!

I have found that with wiring and finishing the best way of doing it quickly is to slow down.

I am dyslexic and prone to messing up wiring, so I do some things to help minimize the agony:

First, I draw out my wiring diagram using the the actual colors of the wires that my guitar/bass will be using. I try to use several colors to make it easy. One color for grounds. A separate "hot" color for each pickup. A third hot color for hot to the jack, etc. Once I have the diagram drawn in "living color", I post it here, and ask folks to take a look at it for accuracy. They have generally been kind about it ;-)

Since encountering my first one, I have avoided barrel jacks like the one that comes with your kit. If you must use one, I recommend splurging a little and getting a Switchcraft jack. They are not terribly expensive but they are much better than the ones with the kit.

Whether you use the one with the kit or a better one, test which lug is hot using a multimeter (on the ohm setting). When you plug a guitar cable into the jack, the hot lug should connect to the tip and only to the tip. If either of the other lugs connect to the tip, that would mean there is a grounding issue somewhere.

Most barrel jacks have three lugs. In your case, either of the other two (or both) can connect to the ground/earth.*

You don't have to bend the grounded lug on the volume pot. If you do bend it, do it gently and then solder it to the case. HOWEVER, I don't bend mine. I solder a small piece of tinned wire from the lug to the case. I find it tidier, I also find it easier to solder other connections to the wire rather than the case. It is also much easier to unsolder, if I ever have to do so.

Finally, I test all gournd/earths with the multimeter. I plug in a cable, with one lead of the multimeter touching the shaft. Strings, shielding tape and all ground points should show continuity. None of them should show continuity with the tip.

This won't completely eliminate making mistakes. I have made plenty of others! But it will minimize them ;-)

On cost: If you are happy with the quality of the kit hardware, consider asking Tim. I think he keeps some extras around and may be willing to send them at a good price.

You can't completely rely on charts. Most of the ones you see on the internet (Including the ones on the PB site are done by volunteers. Specifications are subject to change. Sometimes import-spec parts have lugs in a different place than US spec parts. Wiring colors change over time and brand.

Even so, I have seldom seen a wiring problem here (in particular a couple of mine!) that someone here could not disentangle. Just takes a little patience.


*The "barrel lug" is used as an on-off switch with many active electronics basses and guitars. These guitars have a battery operated preamp. The battery ground wire is connected to the "battery lug" so that when the player plugs in the guitar cable, the preamp is turned on by grounding the battery. The preamp is turned off by disconnecting the ground when the cable is removed from jack. So both the "ground" and the "battery" lugs connect to the shaft of your guitar cable.

howdy all.
we have finally got our 5 string IB - 5 Bass guitar back from the shop who worked on the wiring and supply of pots and TR barrel for our bass due to incorrect wiring diagram provided.
hope the photos help. we could not get any clearer at this stage but is under an uncovered light at nite time, so the best we can get in these light conditions.
will try tomorrow to get better pics during the daylight.
the bass does sound good, but these are not the original supplied electronics and with an expensive 40 watt amp, only on half volume though.
when we see the wiring, it is not difficult, just don't follow the diagram supplied.

:) :rolleyes: ;) :D

Glad you got it working! Looks like a nice, tidy soldering job. Can't tell well from the pics, but it looks to me like the nut on the barrel jack needs to be tightened down a bit more. Also curious why there is no shielding under the pots? Since the pots are grounded it probably won't make any difference, but usually the case of the pot touches the shield when the nut gets tightened down.

FWIW Most of the wiring diagrams were developed years ago. The one you are referring to is 11 years old. As the website notes, they were mostly drawn by a member (aka a volunteer). If you take a look on-line you'll see that different barrel jacks configure their lugs differently. Same thing happens with switches. The diagrams are offered as advice, not gospel, so it's generally a good idea to test the parts before soldering.

These charts predate the new owner, and they are generally helpful, but one still needs to test to make sure that the parts are spec'd correctly. If anything is not as it should be, my experience has been that PitBull does a good job of rectifying the issue, including sending out new parts. That said, wiring colors, switch and jack lugs are subject to slight variations over time. Members on the forum are often aware of them as in this case, which is why it's good to ask here.

The chart in question, actually looks pretty good to me, and may have been correct for the jack that came with kits back in 2014. That said, if one follows this diagram exactly, the only error I see is at the jack, and would have just required unsoldering and and resoldering one of the connections on the jack. The pots actually look right in the diagram to me...unless I am missing something?

In my time I have FUBAR'd plenty of electronic components, particularly in the beginning, and still any time I get in a rush. Usually I do what you did, and get some new parts. But for those fortunate enough to live in Australia, Tim has offered to help with parts if asked.