First Build - Bridge/ Neck Angle - pls help.

Apologies, as I am sure this has been asked many times. I have searched the forum and watched various youtube vids but I think I am more confused now!

I am building an SG style kit with a glue-in neck. I have a couple of questions

1. I appreciate that to get the scale length correct I will have to dry mount the bridge. I know that once the studs have been inserted they cant (easily) be removed. My question is : is it ok to paint the top of the guitar with the studs in place or should I do all the painting and finishing before I start measuring and gluing the neck in place?

2. Neck angle: I have loosely inserted the bridge stud inserts inot the top and rested the bridge on them. I have checked that the guitar neck relief was flat and clamped it in place temporarily to check the neck angle by laying a metal ruler edge along the frets. When I do this the edge of the ruler is about 3mm lower than the saddle height at the bridge. I know that ideally the ruler should rest exactly on the saddles. Do I therefore need to shim the neck or is this within tolerances?

Thanks in advance for your help.

High 5thumbs.

For q1: Most folks would not put the inserts in before finishing. You can put tape around the bridge posts, so they fill the post holes, and mount the bridge loosely to check the placement of the bridge. It gives a good idea about the position. Then use this to check the position of the neck for scale length.

For q2: Remember that the bridge (and saddles) can be raised using the insert screws. Raising the bridge 3 mm sounds OK. How did you place the bridge to check this height?

Thank you - that is very helpful. I would never have thought of taping the bridge posts - that makes perfect sense.

In terms of the bridge angle I unscrewed the bridge posts from the stud inserts and placed them loosely in the holes. In effect the bridge was then resting on the guitar top. So at its lowest possible position the top of the saddles are about 3mm higher than the straight edge laid across the frets. I cant work out whether this is an issue or not. My concern is that the action will be too high once the neck is glued in.

Remember that the bridge studs will also make the bridge sit about 2 mm higher off the body.

I would not second guess whether the action is too high. Actually measure it. Put the neck and bridge in place and use some string (or the cheap kit strings) to check if the action around the 12th fret is OK. It is best if the action is a bit low (since the bridge can easily be raised).

FWIW, with my AG-2 kit: if I run a straight edge along the neck, it would clear the saddles if the bridge is sitting directly on the deck. So, your saddle height of 3 mm above the straight edge seems too high!

Out of interest, is your kit the set neck or the bolt on?

Thanks - good advice. i have carefully sanded the neck heel to increase the angle a bit. Its about 1mm below the saddle height now so I think it is almost there.Still some work to do but I will string it up to test the action. btw its a glue-in neck so keen to get it right before I commmitt!!

Remember to take into account that once the guitar is strung, there will be a bow in the neck. You can adjust the bow with the truss rod, but it needs to have some bow. The action will be a little higher under tension than when there is no string tension.

Ive gone ahead and glued the neck in on my AG1. And now its strung up Im thinking that the neck could of done with a shim to set the angle back a little. Ive tried everything to get the action down, but the neck is going to have to come off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slack Babbath

Ive gone ahead and glued the neck in on my AG1. And now its strung up Im thinking that the neck could of done with a shim to set the angle back a little. Ive tried everything to get the action down, but the neck is going to have to come off.

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I'll put a response on your thread here:

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12520

OK thanks. When I am measuring the angle of the neck to bridge with a straight edge (prior to glueing) should I adjust the truss rod to have some bow in the neck or leave it flat (as it is now). I'm gradually sanding the heel of the tenon to increase the neck angle and aiming for the straight edge to just rest on the saddles. Does this sound right?

I do not think you need to bow the neck (but need to consider that it will bow with the strings added and tensioned and raise the strings away from the fretboard).

I think the straight edge resting on the saddles (when the bridge is sitting on the deck and not on the inserts) is possibly not angled enough.

NOTE: you can use shim to help increase the angle of the neck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevor Davies

I do not think you need to bow the neck (but need to consider that it will bow with the strings added and tensioned and raise the strings away from the fretboard).

I think the straight edge resting on the saddles (when the bridge is sitting on the deck and not on the inserts) is possibly not angled enough.

NOTE: you can use shim to help increase the angle of the neck.

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1+ On not bowing the neck. You should keep the neck flat or at no-tension until you have strings on. Adjusting the truss rod should be done VERY carefully and only to get the neck flat if it does not have strings on.

1+ on the straight edge resting on the saddles. It may be fine, but I'd want a bit more downward adjustment. A mm or two. You have lots of adjustment up. It's adjustment down that you need to worry about most.

1+ On shimming rather than sanding if at all possible. Sanding to create an angle risks putting a curve in By contrast you can shim by creating steps with veneer and still get lots of surface for the glue to stick to.