Just got my first kit and wondering if the upgraded bone nut is already glued into the neck or it is the smaller nut included in the kit.
https://i.imgur.com/70bDWP4.jpg
Printable View
Just got my first kit and wondering if the upgraded bone nut is already glued into the neck or it is the smaller nut included in the kit.
https://i.imgur.com/70bDWP4.jpg
Its always sent separately. The stock nut is glued in Chinese factory
Cheers
Drashkum
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
reduce the picture size, go to the picture you've taken open up the options box "resize" and change the picture size to 1000 in the right hand box then save it under another title.
Was I sent the wrong bone nut upgrade?
https://i.imgur.com/9vfLgc4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/76aCiBQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fvdRr9A.jpg
Here is the test build
https://i.imgur.com/RXSm8Yp.jpg
Yes, that is wrong. That nut is a F-style nut! Email PB and let them know. They possibly do not have the G-style bone nuts (as there is none available online, I'm also waiting for one!).
You can proceed with your build using the plastic nut and put the bone nut in at the end of the build.
BTW - That spalted maple top looks great. It has a nice pattern over the whole top. Good score! The neck also has some patterns.:)
Yes. I think so. That looks like a Stratocaster nut than a Les Paul nut. U need to contact the seller for replacement if u can or get a 42mm Gibson style nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by photomead
If u want a upgrade u can look for TUSQ Graphtech nut too
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the clarification on the nut issue.
Next on my list is shaping the headstock. I was thinking of doing a headstock like this:
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...w094-image.jpg
Any reason to go with a more traditional shaped headstock?
I think it looks good. It should be easy to replicate. One of the best things about DIY guitars is that it is your choice! So do what you want to get your unique custom guitar.Quote:
Originally Posted by photomead
No real reason to go traditional, except that it is what others expect to see. Also maybe, you know what to expect with the tuners and truss rod cover etc on.
I have done a mix of traditional and custom shapes for my builds.
I agree that it looks good. My one question would be if you have enough material in your existing headstock to replicate it. It looks fairly high on one side.
You might want to use a pencil to show the wood and would not be there when you shape your head stock. Take a good look at it before you cut. If you like it, great!
The trick, I think is to get something that you think looks as good as the traditional. I think the reason that fender and Gibson had headstocks have remained so common, is that they're pleasing to the eye. Balanced. You want to see if you can develop something that is as good with the material that you have.
I have also gone both ways with this, sometimes cutting sometimes leaving the traditional. I also vary how I paint. I usually now model the headstock on the computer. That way I can try different things before I actually do any cutting or painting. And I can spend a while looking at it before I decide what I like or don't like.
As I read this it looks like I'm giving a formula for procrastination. Maybe therein lies the reason that my builds seem to take so long...
Sent from my LE2125 using Tapatalk
Here is the design overlaid on my headstock. Keen to see other people's designs on a 3x3 headsotck. Seems that there are way more design options for inline headstocks.
https://i.imgur.com/lBIB6TJ.jpg
I tried Googling guitar headstocks and got lots of good images and ideas.
Also check out the Forum's Photo gallery - under the old naming system of LP rather than DSC or SSC
A couple of links to my builds:
My equivalent of SSC-1s at https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post222692.
My DSCM-1 at https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post217564.
The forum also has a headstock gallery. You may want to post there, as well as look for ideas ;-)
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
Sent from my LE2125 using Tapatalk
Also, as it is hard to tell in the test build photo, just ensure that you have the machine heads the right way around. The handles should be North of the string post.
Like in the link https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post202695.
...and speaking of getting everything aligned... if you have in mind a decal or anything else you want to put on the headstock, you might want to photoshop that in as well to see how it looks. It's easy to get a nut from a tuner or (in my case) a string tree, right where you don't want it unless you consider it at this stage.
Bit the bullet and cut the headstock today. Decided to reverse mirror the body shape Int the headstock.
https://i.imgur.com/GWQF92R.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z0tut2w.jpg
That looks very good ;-)
+1 for looking good.
I filled the back and the neck with 2 layers of grain filler and then stained it. I thought I had sanded it properly with 320 grit sand-paper. Must have either not put enough grain filler or sanded it too far back in a few spots on the back. I am not too concerned with the splotchy colour, but don’t want those spots to be rough when I finish it. Should I try to sand it smooth now and restain the back or leave it and then smooth it out with the finishing coats. Planning on finishing it with a satin finish, not a gloss.
https://i.imgur.com/1nq3AL8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l5Gkjpi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XEyobbb.jpg
You can apply another coat of grain filler in that area and restain it. The area does look uneven and rough. After grain filling you can sand the whole back and restain it to achieve a uniform colour. Also the sanding needs to be with the grain and not circular or against the grain. It does look like sanding was a bit uneven and against the grain too
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
I think I would try again! I also think the darker patches are where it has not been sanded!
I would sand it all back using 180 g, then add more grain filler, then sand again with 180 g, then stain. (Most forum members suggest that you should not go above 180 g if you are staining (as it tends to polish the wood, which then does not absorb the stain evenly).). You may then find that the stain take up is darker (like on the edges and the rough spot). If you do not want it the darker colour you may need to dilute your stain.
I also agree with Drashkum that it looks like the sanding was not all "with the grain" which has left some minor scratches. I tend to use a sanding block to help keep the sanding flat.
My 2nd stain attempt. Much happier with it. Still one trouble spot, but think I can live with it.
https://i.imgur.com/SW7gAY8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6yGOOIq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/b5E3ltq.jpg
Now on to deal with the top. Was thinking of doing a blue/aqua burst on it but want to highlight psalter grain. Have been checking lots of videos out on how to do it, but most seem to dye the top with black and then sand it back to wood to highlight the grain and then re-dye it with the colour of their choice. I am afraid about doing this and accidentally sanding through the veneer top. Any advice on how to prevent going through the veneer when sanding it back or any other suggestions on how to highlight the grain?
The top if it is a veneer it is 0.6mm thick but nevertheless people have tried to back stain it with black.
You can try to do it with caution.
1. Use an alcohol based black dye and dilute it in such a way that it is not too black but just stains the top.
2. Apply diluted black dye to top as fast as you can and wipe it back with alcohol /spirits to remove the excess dye
3. It's better to restain it with black again using another coat using same method rather than using a very black dye in a single coat and repeat wiping excess dye with mineral spirits or alcohol
4. For sanding Never sand before you dye. This is very important. You don't want to take more wood before. Just make sure there are no glue spots. Or after the first coat you can see where the dye has not taken and sand that area with 220 on a sponge alone
5. Sand with 220 on a singe gently with no pressure at all with the grains of the wood. Each time make sure you have not passed through the veneer
6. Wipe it with alcohol to remove extra dust before u stain in colour
https://i.ibb.co/M6Z1NN1/IMG20230904103226.jpg
This was mine when I did thin black stain. I obviously did a few mistakes. I wish I had gone much darker black at first go for the grain to pop better.
If u are going to do a darker coloured dye and then a light colour dye on top it's better to skip black and use the darker dye as base stain
Good luck
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
Thanks @Drashkum.
I am starting with the headstock, if it gets messed up, I can sand off the veneer and just go with a plain headstock.
https://i.imgur.com/I44Z1X3.jpg
Tested the dye on a bit of scrap piece from shaping the headstock. Couldn’t find any spalted maple scraps anywhere locally.
https://i.imgur.com/IhBKEa8.jpg
This is the look I am kind of copying two different versions:
https://i.imgur.com/saFssRv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ChDhsVI.jpg
@Drashkum and @ Photomead. I do not think the veneer is 6 mm thick! I think it is about 1 mm.
Be really careful with sanding the black stain off the veneer.
My bad.. I meant 0.6mm thick. Thank you for pointing out. Edited it nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
Should I keep sanding this back to expose more wood tones or if I sand it that far back would I be going through the veneer?
https://i.imgur.com/keoJez7.jpg
Here is how the headstock came out….
https://i.imgur.com/oCQ6egB.jpg
I think u can sand it slightly more. But can't say much from pictured if you will go through veneer. If you choose to do so please do it very carefully. But the sanding is very uneven. Please do the sanding with the grain of the wood and if u can try to Make it lot less blotchyQuote:
Originally Posted by photomead
Sent from my NE2211 using Tapatalk
I have exactly 0% successful experience sanding figured veneer. Every stain I have tried to do on veneer, I have managed to sand through. It is amazingly easy, and once you've done it, there is not much you can do to repair it. I don't think you'll bring out much more wood grain by sanding. Just my 2 cents. Drashkum has had pretty good results and recently so I'd listen to him... Still if it's sanded down to 220 or even 180 grit smooth, I'd be inclined to build up some clear coat before sanding further.